383 internals question for T76GTS turbo build
383 internals question for T76GTS turbo build
Hopefully this isn't in the wrong forum:
I currently have a 383 with Eagle forged internals that was used with my D1SC setup that I recently sold. I was heading the NA route when I had a change of heart(call it boost withdrawals). My question is this:
Can I use the Eagle crank and rods for a T76 GTS build or would I need to use a smaller turbo(T67S) and keep the hp at a certain point? I'm thinking that I would need 925 hp to run in the high 9's with a 3500-3600 lb car. I'd like to use parts that I already have knowing how expensive this is going to be($3500 for the PTK kit, $1,695 for the turbo, $$ to upgrade fuel system, new tranny, new cage, etc.). For those of you who have gone through the aches and pains of parts breakage, please give me some insight.
How high can I go with the compression? This is a street car but will spend more time at the track than on the street. I don't have to run the RPMs up real high to achieve my goal which I would imagine would help in the parts department.
Can this be done with stock ported heads or do i NEED to go with bigger AFR heads?
I currently have a 383 with Eagle forged internals that was used with my D1SC setup that I recently sold. I was heading the NA route when I had a change of heart(call it boost withdrawals). My question is this:
Can I use the Eagle crank and rods for a T76 GTS build or would I need to use a smaller turbo(T67S) and keep the hp at a certain point? I'm thinking that I would need 925 hp to run in the high 9's with a 3500-3600 lb car. I'd like to use parts that I already have knowing how expensive this is going to be($3500 for the PTK kit, $1,695 for the turbo, $$ to upgrade fuel system, new tranny, new cage, etc.). For those of you who have gone through the aches and pains of parts breakage, please give me some insight.
How high can I go with the compression? This is a street car but will spend more time at the track than on the street. I don't have to run the RPMs up real high to achieve my goal which I would imagine would help in the parts department.
Can this be done with stock ported heads or do i NEED to go with bigger AFR heads?
Local buddy of mine is running 5.4's@137 in the 1/8th with Eagle 6" rods, and Eagle crank in a 377, and tons of spray. Don't see any reason why I need anything different. 4340 is stronger then people give it credit for.... 
Jose

Jose
If what you guys say is true, it bears to reason that one is a theory(opinion) and the other is fact. I'll take proven info over personal opinions any day of the week.
Not to say you haven't had bad experiences with Eagle products, Highlander, but I'd like to hear specifics.
Maybe a few more could chime in?
I once was told you couldn't run 12 lbs/boost on a stock LT1. I did it for almost two years while going through tuning issues, fuel issues, etc. It only gave up the ghost when I sprayed on top of it. Why did I do that? To see what would happen.
Oh, by the way, I ran 15 lbs/boost with 10.0:1 compression in my 383 for a full year.............almost a full year...........lol. That's with **** poor tuning on my part. Slightly hurt the #7 piston. Block and heads are O-ringed so head gaskets weren't being blown weekly. If what I put the car through for that time period only hurt #7, I'm a believer in the notion that "some people play it TOO safe."
I'd like to do this project RIGHT but I don't want to play it TOO safe(spend more than is necessary).
Not to say you haven't had bad experiences with Eagle products, Highlander, but I'd like to hear specifics.
Maybe a few more could chime in?
I once was told you couldn't run 12 lbs/boost on a stock LT1. I did it for almost two years while going through tuning issues, fuel issues, etc. It only gave up the ghost when I sprayed on top of it. Why did I do that? To see what would happen.
Oh, by the way, I ran 15 lbs/boost with 10.0:1 compression in my 383 for a full year.............almost a full year...........lol. That's with **** poor tuning on my part. Slightly hurt the #7 piston. Block and heads are O-ringed so head gaskets weren't being blown weekly. If what I put the car through for that time period only hurt #7, I'm a believer in the notion that "some people play it TOO safe."
I'd like to do this project RIGHT but I don't want to play it TOO safe(spend more than is necessary).
Originally posted by The Highlander
Its not the fact that is 4340, its the fact that eagle is chinese and the others in comparison are american...
I just trust american grade steel a little bit more than chinese from experience.
Its not the fact that is 4340, its the fact that eagle is chinese and the others in comparison are american...
I just trust american grade steel a little bit more than chinese from experience.
It's called "capitalism." Ever wonder why that $99 orange dicer "ONLY COSTS $19.99 IF YOU CALL TODAY!!"??
Create a sense of NEED and people will NEED IT.
There's a 700+ rwhp STOCK LONG BLOCK turbo LS1 now. Why? Because they said it couldn't be done. And he said......."really?"
Just like the 540ci motor in the Camaro that everyone said "it won't hook, too much torque......." It hooked.
Not knocking you Highlander, I respect your opinion. I appreciate your input. I prefer your opinion to those that are reading this and won't say a word. Somebody's personal opinion or experience is what makes this board what it is. If I fail in my attempt to do what you said wouldn't be smart(you never said it couldn't be done, just not smart) then I will post my failure as I would my success. I always have.
Wish me luck!
Besides, I've never broke a crank before.........or ever hurt a rod. This could be something to tell my children about....................
If I break something it's all JZ's fault, lol. j/k.
Create a sense of NEED and people will NEED IT.
There's a 700+ rwhp STOCK LONG BLOCK turbo LS1 now. Why? Because they said it couldn't be done. And he said......."really?"
Just like the 540ci motor in the Camaro that everyone said "it won't hook, too much torque......." It hooked.
Not knocking you Highlander, I respect your opinion. I appreciate your input. I prefer your opinion to those that are reading this and won't say a word. Somebody's personal opinion or experience is what makes this board what it is. If I fail in my attempt to do what you said wouldn't be smart(you never said it couldn't be done, just not smart) then I will post my failure as I would my success. I always have.
Wish me luck!
Besides, I've never broke a crank before.........or ever hurt a rod. This could be something to tell my children about....................
If I break something it's all JZ's fault, lol. j/k.
Slo-Ride,
That's kickass that you're going Turbo. I hope finally that you'll be able to hand me my *** like you've wanted to do the past 3 years....just pray you have your's done soon.
You know I'm just giving you crap. Your car is going to be down right sick and I can't wait to see it run
Like you, I'll soon be switching to a T67(min)-T71 on my car.
Good luck with your project bro, and keep me updated on what is going on.
That's kickass that you're going Turbo. I hope finally that you'll be able to hand me my *** like you've wanted to do the past 3 years....just pray you have your's done soon.

You know I'm just giving you crap. Your car is going to be down right sick and I can't wait to see it run

Like you, I'll soon be switching to a T67(min)-T71 on my car.
Good luck with your project bro, and keep me updated on what is going on.
If you are talkin' to me, I'm a little lucky, but I also keep my a/f ratio at 11.8~>12.0:1 on the street. I'll give up a little power to keep my engine alive.
50K miles on a bone stock LS1 with the procharger.
50K miles on a bone stock LS1 with the procharger.


