383 internals question for T76GTS turbo build
RE:Eagle
FYI-
I have run an Eagle 4340 bottom end for two years-12 lbs boost and 150 shot on top of that (once) and the rods and crank were fine-went through three sets of JE Blower pistons. Crank and rods still fine. Even ran 20 lbs. of boost on the dyno-no issues. Good luck.
I have run an Eagle 4340 bottom end for two years-12 lbs boost and 150 shot on top of that (once) and the rods and crank were fine-went through three sets of JE Blower pistons. Crank and rods still fine. Even ran 20 lbs. of boost on the dyno-no issues. Good luck.
Thanks DarkblueTA and yes I intend to hand you your *** at some point. lol. You and a few others whose names I won't mention here. They know who they are, though.
Rich, I've been fortunate that I haven't broken more parts than I have. I'm sure I'm still in my parts breaking infancy.
IROCrdracer, are the JE blower pistons crap or what? The #7 piston that failed on me most recently was JE. Is this abuse on our part or are they just not that good? Rich, what kind of pistons are you using?
Rich, I've been fortunate that I haven't broken more parts than I have. I'm sure I'm still in my parts breaking infancy.
IROCrdracer, are the JE blower pistons crap or what? The #7 piston that failed on me most recently was JE. Is this abuse on our part or are they just not that good? Rich, what kind of pistons are you using?
Slo-ride.. you are right about many things... the NEED factor and all... People react to their experiences.. that is all, hence my "need" or wanting a good and/or better crank. I should probably save the $1369 bucks and keep my crank but I dont know...
Of course.. I DO WISH YOU LUCK!!!!
but for now If I can get my hand on that crank i think i will feel a bit better on pushing a bit more out of that engine. I dont want to "redo" all this again... and if I kill my crank, there is a possibility I kill everything else... the rods.. I dont doubt them.. I do doubt the rod bolts which will be upgraded...
Lets put it this way... I want to put that crank because... "i just got to have it" or maybe... because if i dont call today it will be more expensive??

My engine is comming out today. all there is left is a few bolts and its comming up
Keep us posted...
You know.. I have learned a LOT or most from this site and its search page, from advice from people like RSkrause and such, from working my car inside out, from removing my engine for the second time, from fixing every single detail, from spending spending and more spending... But when it comes to give advice... I sometimes dont know what to say...
Of course.. I DO WISH YOU LUCK!!!!
but for now If I can get my hand on that crank i think i will feel a bit better on pushing a bit more out of that engine. I dont want to "redo" all this again... and if I kill my crank, there is a possibility I kill everything else... the rods.. I dont doubt them.. I do doubt the rod bolts which will be upgraded...
Lets put it this way... I want to put that crank because... "i just got to have it" or maybe... because if i dont call today it will be more expensive??

My engine is comming out today. all there is left is a few bolts and its comming up

Keep us posted...
You know.. I have learned a LOT or most from this site and its search page, from advice from people like RSkrause and such, from working my car inside out, from removing my engine for the second time, from fixing every single detail, from spending spending and more spending... But when it comes to give advice... I sometimes dont know what to say...
Last edited by Highlander; May 23, 2004 at 11:45 PM.
Originally posted by Slo-ride
IROCrdracer, are the JE blower pistons crap or what? The #7 piston that failed on me most recently was JE. Is this abuse on our part or are they just not that good?
IROCrdracer, are the JE blower pistons crap or what? The #7 piston that failed on me most recently was JE. Is this abuse on our part or are they just not that good?
I am considering Diamond pistons if I need round four.....
Ditto on the rod bolts, Highlander, those will be upgraded for sure. I'm not that familiar with the ceramic coating, though. Has anyone had this done? I have no idea what it costs and with what applications it is most effective. I'll do a search.
I'm with you on probably being lean, IROCrdracer, I was pushing the limits of my fuel system when that piston failed. As a matter of fact a leak down test revealed that it was on its way out prior to us beating the **** out of it while tuning it for Super Chevy in Ennis, TX. Nope, I didn't make the race............not with the car anyway.............lol.
I'm with you on probably being lean, IROCrdracer, I was pushing the limits of my fuel system when that piston failed. As a matter of fact a leak down test revealed that it was on its way out prior to us beating the **** out of it while tuning it for Super Chevy in Ennis, TX. Nope, I didn't make the race............not with the car anyway.............lol.
my motor blew from what i thought was too much cylinder pressure but it turned out to be the fact that the motor prolly hit 340*
i split the temp sensor readings between the FAST and the PCM thus split the temp readings at both places. anywho i was running 7.5#s with 36* advanced timing on the stock motor for 200 miles before the head gasket got really bad and it didn't want to run. when i borke it down there was nothing wrong with it but the head gasket and a really warped head. i think the stock motors can take a pretty good beating but not the heat.
i split the temp sensor readings between the FAST and the PCM thus split the temp readings at both places. anywho i was running 7.5#s with 36* advanced timing on the stock motor for 200 miles before the head gasket got really bad and it didn't want to run. when i borke it down there was nothing wrong with it but the head gasket and a really warped head. i think the stock motors can take a pretty good beating but not the heat.
Well I'm going to have to side with Highlander on this one.
It isn't the fact that the eagle rotating assy. isn't strong enough. It's a fact that the callies forged rotating assy is better and it would be much more expensive for you if you use the eagle parts have bad luck and then end up going with the more expensive parts.
Also, if your building a street car I believe in overkill. Reason being every manufacturer builds their performance cars overkill for them with the power they produce from the factory because they don't want the liability of having to warranty parts.
Heck, I've even thought about going with the eagle rotating assy. But I feel it will be easier to wait a couple more months and get the best equipment available.
Justin
It isn't the fact that the eagle rotating assy. isn't strong enough. It's a fact that the callies forged rotating assy is better and it would be much more expensive for you if you use the eagle parts have bad luck and then end up going with the more expensive parts.
Also, if your building a street car I believe in overkill. Reason being every manufacturer builds their performance cars overkill for them with the power they produce from the factory because they don't want the liability of having to warranty parts.
Heck, I've even thought about going with the eagle rotating assy. But I feel it will be easier to wait a couple more months and get the best equipment available.
Justin
"Well I'm going to have to side with Highlander on this one.
It isn't the fact that the eagle rotating assy. isn't strong enough. It's a fact that the callies forged rotating assy is better....."
96VortechSS, trust me when I say that I'm not a guru with YEARS of experience in building and breaking motors. BUT, I've always been the guy that goes against the grain. Yes, it's bit me in the *** many times but it has also saved me money more times than not.
You stated that it's not that it "isn't strong enough." Then that would mean that you agree that it is. You also stated that the "callies forged rotating assy is better..." I don't necessarily disagree with you, I'm just asking for REAL WORLD experience. I'm not sure that I'm GOING to go with my Eagle setup but most likely I will based on others who have made good hp with the Eagle internals. Hell, I may just play it safe and go with "better"(more expensive) stuff. I know, though, that I'd rather take the "risk" and use what I already have. I'm a gambler by nature(although I don't feel like I'm placing that much of a bet). If I can contribute anything to this board it may just be WHAT NOT TO DO. I don't know that for sure because I'm pretty confident in what I intend to do but if I fail, I'll at least let the next guy know on a FACTUAL basis WHY I failed.
As for Highlander, his opinions are golden in my book. I don't have to agree to learn from someone's opinion. ->Thanks Highlander for taking the time to respond<-
Hopefully, I'll be successful, if I'm not, you guys will be the first to know!
By the way, PTK says their LT1 kit will handle 1050 hp with the upgraded down pipe. You have to have an aftermarket K-member but that's the first thing I'm going to do anyway.
It isn't the fact that the eagle rotating assy. isn't strong enough. It's a fact that the callies forged rotating assy is better....."
96VortechSS, trust me when I say that I'm not a guru with YEARS of experience in building and breaking motors. BUT, I've always been the guy that goes against the grain. Yes, it's bit me in the *** many times but it has also saved me money more times than not.
You stated that it's not that it "isn't strong enough." Then that would mean that you agree that it is. You also stated that the "callies forged rotating assy is better..." I don't necessarily disagree with you, I'm just asking for REAL WORLD experience. I'm not sure that I'm GOING to go with my Eagle setup but most likely I will based on others who have made good hp with the Eagle internals. Hell, I may just play it safe and go with "better"(more expensive) stuff. I know, though, that I'd rather take the "risk" and use what I already have. I'm a gambler by nature(although I don't feel like I'm placing that much of a bet). If I can contribute anything to this board it may just be WHAT NOT TO DO. I don't know that for sure because I'm pretty confident in what I intend to do but if I fail, I'll at least let the next guy know on a FACTUAL basis WHY I failed.
As for Highlander, his opinions are golden in my book. I don't have to agree to learn from someone's opinion. ->Thanks Highlander for taking the time to respond<-
Hopefully, I'll be successful, if I'm not, you guys will be the first to know!
By the way, PTK says their LT1 kit will handle 1050 hp with the upgraded down pipe. You have to have an aftermarket K-member but that's the first thing I'm going to do anyway.
Originally posted by Slo-ride
"Well I'm going to have to side with Highlander on this one.
It isn't the fact that the eagle rotating assy. isn't strong enough. It's a fact that the callies forged rotating assy is better....."
96VortechSS, trust me when I say that I'm not a guru with YEARS of experience in building and breaking motors. BUT, I've always been the guy that goes against the grain. Yes, it's bit me in the *** many times but it has also saved me money more times than not.
You stated that it's not that it "isn't strong enough." Then that would mean that you agree that it is. You also stated that the "callies forged rotating assy is better..." I don't necessarily disagree with you, I'm just asking for REAL WORLD experience. I'm not sure that I'm GOING to go with my Eagle setup but most likely I will based on others who have made good hp with the Eagle internals. Hell, I may just play it safe and go with "better"(more expensive) stuff. I know, though, that I'd rather take the "risk" and use what I already have. I'm a gambler by nature(although I don't feel like I'm placing that much of a bet). If I can contribute anything to this board it may just be WHAT NOT TO DO. I don't know that for sure because I'm pretty confident in what I intend to do but if I fail, I'll at least let the next guy know on a FACTUAL basis WHY I failed.
As for Highlander, his opinions are golden in my book. I don't have to agree to learn from someone's opinion. ->Thanks Highlander for taking the time to respond<-
Hopefully, I'll be successful, if I'm not, you guys will be the first to know!
By the way, PTK says their LT1 kit will handle 1050 hp with the upgraded down pipe. You have to have an aftermarket K-member but that's the first thing I'm going to do anyway.
"Well I'm going to have to side with Highlander on this one.
It isn't the fact that the eagle rotating assy. isn't strong enough. It's a fact that the callies forged rotating assy is better....."
96VortechSS, trust me when I say that I'm not a guru with YEARS of experience in building and breaking motors. BUT, I've always been the guy that goes against the grain. Yes, it's bit me in the *** many times but it has also saved me money more times than not.
You stated that it's not that it "isn't strong enough." Then that would mean that you agree that it is. You also stated that the "callies forged rotating assy is better..." I don't necessarily disagree with you, I'm just asking for REAL WORLD experience. I'm not sure that I'm GOING to go with my Eagle setup but most likely I will based on others who have made good hp with the Eagle internals. Hell, I may just play it safe and go with "better"(more expensive) stuff. I know, though, that I'd rather take the "risk" and use what I already have. I'm a gambler by nature(although I don't feel like I'm placing that much of a bet). If I can contribute anything to this board it may just be WHAT NOT TO DO. I don't know that for sure because I'm pretty confident in what I intend to do but if I fail, I'll at least let the next guy know on a FACTUAL basis WHY I failed.
As for Highlander, his opinions are golden in my book. I don't have to agree to learn from someone's opinion. ->Thanks Highlander for taking the time to respond<-
Hopefully, I'll be successful, if I'm not, you guys will be the first to know!
By the way, PTK says their LT1 kit will handle 1050 hp with the upgraded down pipe. You have to have an aftermarket K-member but that's the first thing I'm going to do anyway.
but the reality is that you are a gambler and not many of us are. Yes you might do it in less $, but I rather spend the extra buck now and not have to redo it again... See..
For instance... I called thunderracing and the Callies Racemaster crank was for $1220.00. I investigated and they called callies and they told me the MAGNUM crank was 170 more... now.. If I have spent the big bucks on my car w/o hessitation do you think 170 is too much to add?
I can understand your point regarding saving a few bucks and gambling... I was going to do it... but if im redoing like right now.. I will re-do it right. I want the added security that if tommorrow I want to push in 20psi boost from a ysi-trim I dont have to worry about the gamble i did for not spending 200-300 more. besides.. my crank did take a while to balance and I am not sure if my engine builder did spec everything before building. I did chose the parts but he did all the work associated.
These are all good points. I have another engine that is all Callies,Oliver, etc-hasn't come apart yet.
Are there documented cases of the Eagle 4340 parts breaking under load? Not improper installation, but actual crank breakage or rod ends breaking off?
Are there documented cases of the Eagle 4340 parts breaking under load? Not improper installation, but actual crank breakage or rod ends breaking off?
ACtually.. I have not heard anything from breakage in rods nor cranks with eagle.... But I have read that engine builders hate it because of balancing issues and because of tolerances... That can lead to breakage in the future...
Intimd8 is doing 868rwhp with his eagle crank and rods... So that is comforting...
Still... you get what you pay for... And dong get me wrong.. I like my eagle crank.. it looks really nice compared to stock

I did read on this forum about a callies breaking though. It was due to a Procharger locking up and taking the snout with it and the such....
As a matter of fact.. i have heard of more breakage from callies than eagle... but they have been accidents...
Same as lunati... lunati used to break between the 2nd and 3rd counter balance or something similar...
I guess I will stay with the callies for this build up as I know a common combination is
Callies Racemaster Eagle forged Rods and JE pistons.... that seems to be a bulletproof combo...
I went to the callies because I want more power and rev it more.
Intimd8 is doing 868rwhp with his eagle crank and rods... So that is comforting...
Still... you get what you pay for... And dong get me wrong.. I like my eagle crank.. it looks really nice compared to stock

I did read on this forum about a callies breaking though. It was due to a Procharger locking up and taking the snout with it and the such....
As a matter of fact.. i have heard of more breakage from callies than eagle... but they have been accidents...
Same as lunati... lunati used to break between the 2nd and 3rd counter balance or something similar...
I guess I will stay with the callies for this build up as I know a common combination is
Callies Racemaster Eagle forged Rods and JE pistons.... that seems to be a bulletproof combo...
I went to the callies because I want more power and rev it more.


