Do you have recommendations (keeping price in mind) for a disk that drives like stock but holds when needed with the extra power?

The nice thing about the Autozone clutch is that I can just get a replacement for free now with the lifetime warrenty. If it ends up not holding well, I'll go with a new disk and swap it out.

Dan

 

I still just need a disk. I don't know what to get. I'm going to have probably 350-375 rwhp. I don't want much worse than stock. Would buying just the spec stage 3 disk directly from the manufacturer do any good for me? I'll have stock flywheel and slp PP.

 

The Spec 3+ disk goes for about $300.00. It drives like total *** for the first 20 miles then starts to break in. I have 500 miles on it now and it is 90% stock feel with no slipping. Just resurface your existing pressue plate if needed.

 

I need some clearing up. Last summer I put in a oem replacement ram clutch. (part # 88516) Well, I didn't resurface the flywheel at that time and had it slip on me once. So I still want to rip it apart and do it over again but, can I replace the disc with say, an HD disc? Or a spec 2+ disc? Im a little confused after reading through this whole thread on interchanging discs with an oem PP.

 

That's exactly what they're saying. Basically, the best PP that can be had for our cars is either the stock LT4 PP or the chinese knock-off which rated a little higher by wrd1972 (the one in Duralast clutch kits). The difference in holding power is solely up the disc and flywheel that you install with the PP. If you go with a higher hold strength clutch, as well as a flywheel material that can handle the added wear, then you can build a clutch kit that has similar performance to a $600+ clutch kit for less money. Personally, I'm debating between the RAM 6130, 910, and 980 clutch discs right now. Because all 3 have a more abrasive material, I will need a flywheel that can handle the added wear (steel). But by buying the stock PP, performance clutch disc, and flywheel seperate, I will be saving $200+ over buying a clutch kit that would include a disc of that holding capacity.

My question is, has anyone compared sintered iron with sintered bronze, as I can find nothing on google that's helpful. I'm wanting to know what the respective holding capasities between the 3 clutch discs I listed above, as well as how street-driveable they are.

 

Thats what I did

 

Another nice thing about the Autozone clutch is the next one you get might be different than the one you got.

I got two wheel bearings for a Cav... both same part#, both looked very different... one had a single CV Joint seal, the other had two seals in a totally different casting!! Major difference there... yes they both did the job but one was definately better than the other.

 

Just ordered the SPEC Stage 2+ kit. Salesman at SPEC talked to me for about 20 min on differences with PP and disc thickness. He ended up giving me a 15% discount if I'd get the full kit instead of the disc alone, so I bit. Anyone think I screwed up not going 3+ instead of 2+?

 

YUP, the 3+ is sweet and drives near stock once you get used to and has loads more grip. I have read all to often that people burn up the 2 much sooner than they would like. But your 10 bolt will like the 2+. 10 bolts hate the 3+ for obvious reasons.

 

anyone use clutchnets disks.

 

i have been looking at getting a clutch net disk, and im debating on the

Sport Fiber Carbon or the 6 button E-Z Lock

the sport looks much like the RAM HD 900 series and the EZ Lock looks like the spec stage 4.
I just want to hear feedback on the clutchnet disks, the disk will be going in a 383 that pushing roughly 500 FWhp, not driven daily, but more often than not.

i understand that they hold the patents on the clutch designs the big name companies use, any other info on this either?

 

hey guys my name is mark and im trying to find some information.

ive got an a 350/t56 combo in my 89 s10 blazer and my clutch engages SUPER high.

the only thing i can come up with is i turned the flywheel and did not install a spacer. well i had the flywheel turned about 4 years ago when i first did the swap. so i have no idea how much was taken off.

so what im looking for is the oem thickness of the flywheel and also the minimum thickenss. hopefully you guys can help and i can get this problem sorted out.

thanks
-mark

 

Is this an LT1/Tranny combo? If so, the stock flywheel is fairly thin from the start. I bought the SPEC billet flywheel because it has plenty of meat. In the past I've had the lightweight SLP flywheel as well as 2 stockers. I really like this SPEC the best though.

 

yes this is an lt1 tranny combo. a billet flywheel is not in the budget right now but its on the list for when i piece together my new clutch setup.

im just trying to get this setup to work better for the time being.

 

Just because they all use the LT4 pressure plate doesn't mean they haven't altered the clamping force.