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Walthrough for changing LT1 hydraulics?

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Old May 28, 2007 | 07:46 PM
  #1  
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Walthrough for changing LT1 hydraulics?

I've serached here and a few other sites, and I can't seem to locate any kind of how-to/walthrough for how to change these. I'll be buying a GM Master/Slave/Line that is put together and bench bled. I misplaced my hanyes/chilton manual, and the walk through's on here are always much better anyway.

I've never done any thing like this, I'm definatley not scared to tackle it, I just want a good idea of what I'm doing.

If anyone has any tips or knows where i can find one, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

Damnit i misspelled the title.

Last edited by jdhommert; May 28, 2007 at 08:24 PM.
Old May 28, 2007 | 09:29 PM
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Might want to mention the year/model of the car.
Old May 31, 2007 | 01:03 AM
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Oops

1995 Z28 M6.
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 05:55 PM
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Does anyone have any help here?
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 11:38 PM
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There's not a whole lot to it. The slave unbolts from the cup on the bell housing. The master is held in by a U-bolt that goes through the fire wall. You need a friend with extremely skinny arms to get the master in. Do not press on the pedal without the slave being fully installed with the pushrod in the fork.
Old Jun 4, 2007 | 09:31 AM
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Fred's pretty much covered it. The master's held on with a u-bolt; the nuts mount to the interior side of the firewall. Don't remove the plastic strap that is mounted on the new slave cylinder; it stays there.
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 02:26 AM
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Ok so i got the old one out, and the new slave on line routed and ****, i can't get the damn master/rod lined up to go in the firewall. Very frustrating considering I removed the Booster, and loosened my header.....

What angle, etc did you guys do this from? I just cant seem to get it in at all. The closest i can come is by backing it under the steering column/kunckle, but im still a inch or two short. WHY CANT THEY MAKE THE DAMN LINE A FEW INCHES LONGER

Help, please!
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