twin clutch toast!
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 187
twin clutch toast!
hey guys, ive been putting my car together for 2 years now and its finally done.
so, today was the big day,i trailored it to the dyno to put down some #s and tune what needed to be. i could feel the clutch wasnt fully engauging, so we got it up on the lift and tried to fix it.
originally when i installed the clutch i read on the message board here, that i needed to grind down the point where the pivot bolt bolts the fork to the tranny. did that. once clutch was installed, i noticed it wasnt engaging fully so i was told to remove the rod from the slave that moves the fork in and out,and cut it 1/8", re-install it and continue this procedure untill it engaged fully. so after cutting off about 1/2" it seemed to be better so i made a few test runs on the road and it went from good to bad real fast. so i left it alone and figured that when i brought it to the dyno, i would just remove the rod again and cut it another 1/4" and it would be all good.
well thats what we did......and i was wrong. it wouldnt even grab enough to roll onto the dyno wheel, we had to push it on. so at this point i knew it the clutch was toast so we tried one pull just for fun and at 3000rpm it wouldnt spin the wheels any faster.....
so i need a new clutch. its a mcloed streettwin with steel flywheel that i bought here on the message board. it was used but for only about 1000 miles. seemed fine when i got it so i installed it.
so what i need to know is, can i just buy two new clutch discs and keep the flywheel,pressure plate and throwout bearing, or do i need a whole new clutch kit? any thoughts would be appreciated as i want to get this car on the road finally and on the dyno as well. thanks
so, today was the big day,i trailored it to the dyno to put down some #s and tune what needed to be. i could feel the clutch wasnt fully engauging, so we got it up on the lift and tried to fix it.
originally when i installed the clutch i read on the message board here, that i needed to grind down the point where the pivot bolt bolts the fork to the tranny. did that. once clutch was installed, i noticed it wasnt engaging fully so i was told to remove the rod from the slave that moves the fork in and out,and cut it 1/8", re-install it and continue this procedure untill it engaged fully. so after cutting off about 1/2" it seemed to be better so i made a few test runs on the road and it went from good to bad real fast. so i left it alone and figured that when i brought it to the dyno, i would just remove the rod again and cut it another 1/4" and it would be all good.
well thats what we did......and i was wrong. it wouldnt even grab enough to roll onto the dyno wheel, we had to push it on. so at this point i knew it the clutch was toast so we tried one pull just for fun and at 3000rpm it wouldnt spin the wheels any faster.....
so i need a new clutch. its a mcloed streettwin with steel flywheel that i bought here on the message board. it was used but for only about 1000 miles. seemed fine when i got it so i installed it.
so what i need to know is, can i just buy two new clutch discs and keep the flywheel,pressure plate and throwout bearing, or do i need a whole new clutch kit? any thoughts would be appreciated as i want to get this car on the road finally and on the dyno as well. thanks
Last edited by zl1dreams; Apr 2, 2010 at 07:32 PM.
Registered User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,161
From: Colorado
hey guys, ive been putting my car together for 2 years now and its finally done.
so, today was the big day,i trailored it to the dyno to put down some #s and tune what needed to be. i could feel the clutch wasnt fully engauging, so we got it up on the lift and tried to fix it.
originally when i installed the clutch i read on the message board here, that i needed to grind down the point where the pivot bolt bolts the fork to the tranny. did that. once clutch was installed, i noticed it wasnt engaging fully so i was told to remove the rod from the slave that moves the fork in and out,and cut it 1/8", re-install it and continue this procedure untill it engaged fully. so after cutting off about 1/2" it seemed to be better so i made a few test runs on the road and it went from good to bad real fast. so i left it alone and figured that when i brought it to the dyno, i would just remove the rod again and cut it another 1/4" and it would be all good.
well thats what we did......and i was wrong. it wouldnt even grab enough to roll onto the dyno wheel, we had to push it on. so at this point i knew it the clutch was toast so we tried one pull just for fun and at 3000rpm it wouldnt spin the wheels any faster.....
so i need a new clutch. its a mcloed streettwin with steel flywheel that i bought here on the message board. it was used but for only about 1000 miles. seemed fine when i got it so i installed it.
so what i need to know is, can i just buy two new clutch discs and keep the flywheel,pressure plate and throwout bearing, or do i need a whole new clutch kit? any thoughts would be appreciated as i want to get this car on the road finally and on the dyno as well. thanks
so, today was the big day,i trailored it to the dyno to put down some #s and tune what needed to be. i could feel the clutch wasnt fully engauging, so we got it up on the lift and tried to fix it.
originally when i installed the clutch i read on the message board here, that i needed to grind down the point where the pivot bolt bolts the fork to the tranny. did that. once clutch was installed, i noticed it wasnt engaging fully so i was told to remove the rod from the slave that moves the fork in and out,and cut it 1/8", re-install it and continue this procedure untill it engaged fully. so after cutting off about 1/2" it seemed to be better so i made a few test runs on the road and it went from good to bad real fast. so i left it alone and figured that when i brought it to the dyno, i would just remove the rod again and cut it another 1/4" and it would be all good.
well thats what we did......and i was wrong. it wouldnt even grab enough to roll onto the dyno wheel, we had to push it on. so at this point i knew it the clutch was toast so we tried one pull just for fun and at 3000rpm it wouldnt spin the wheels any faster.....
so i need a new clutch. its a mcloed streettwin with steel flywheel that i bought here on the message board. it was used but for only about 1000 miles. seemed fine when i got it so i installed it.
so what i need to know is, can i just buy two new clutch discs and keep the flywheel,pressure plate and throwout bearing, or do i need a whole new clutch kit? any thoughts would be appreciated as i want to get this car on the road finally and on the dyno as well. thanks
My car just got running yesterday after the install, and I used the adjustable master from them too.
The clutch releases great and has a great feel to it. It is a grabby little bitch though. Me likey!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 187
when i bought my clutch i did a search on here before installing it and everyone was saying they had problems and the fix was to grind down the T-bolt that bolts the fork to the tranny.
then once we fired it up and i tried it it wasnt engaging very much, just at the very top so i called a local shop and he told me to remove the rod on the slave and cut it 1/8" at time trying after each cut and it never really helped. i think i may have ground to much off the T-bolt. im bringing it in to a shop wednesday morning and theyre gonna look at it.
maybe the clutch is still fine as it never really got to engage and the can just put a stock T-bolt back in. hopefully thats the case.
then once we fired it up and i tried it it wasnt engaging very much, just at the very top so i called a local shop and he told me to remove the rod on the slave and cut it 1/8" at time trying after each cut and it never really helped. i think i may have ground to much off the T-bolt. im bringing it in to a shop wednesday morning and theyre gonna look at it.
maybe the clutch is still fine as it never really got to engage and the can just put a stock T-bolt back in. hopefully thats the case.
Registered User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,161
From: Colorado
when i bought my clutch i did a search on here before installing it and everyone was saying they had problems and the fix was to grind down the T-bolt that bolts the fork to the tranny.
then once we fired it up and i tried it it wasnt engaging very much, just at the very top so i called a local shop and he told me to remove the rod on the slave and cut it 1/8" at time trying after each cut and it never really helped. i think i may have ground to much off the T-bolt. im bringing it in to a shop wednesday morning and theyre gonna look at it.
maybe the clutch is still fine as it never really got to engage and the can just put a stock T-bolt back in. hopefully thats the case.
then once we fired it up and i tried it it wasnt engaging very much, just at the very top so i called a local shop and he told me to remove the rod on the slave and cut it 1/8" at time trying after each cut and it never really helped. i think i may have ground to much off the T-bolt. im bringing it in to a shop wednesday morning and theyre gonna look at it.
maybe the clutch is still fine as it never really got to engage and the can just put a stock T-bolt back in. hopefully thats the case.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 187
from what i read if you didnt grind down the T-bolt the fork would come in contact with the bellhousing. thats just what i read though. you would have noticed right away if there was a problem as the clutch would be hard to push in as the fork we jam on the bellhousing. maybe the newer ones dont have this clearnce issue. i even got suckered in on buying the billet adjustable master($320) and apparently you can use the stock one with no problems. any how, the car is at very well known tranny/diff shop getting fixed so i should know tomorrow what the problem was.
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Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,098
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
The ORIGINAL (late '90s) Street Twin required about 1/10" to be shaved off the pivot, and included a "sleeve" that had to be inserted in the slave cylinder. I believe they did away with both those when they added the adjustable master cylinder.
Registered User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,161
From: Colorado
Ok, so this was waaay before the clutch design I have now. Thanks for chiming in Injuneer!
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