First of all this is my 5th BUILT 4L60E with this perticular builder, so if this isn't something that can just be switched out easily and I DO need another trans I am just going to save up for a Century 4L60E, or maybe a 4L80E swap.


Problem:

(at first) The car would not go in to gear, forward gear (just free-revs), unless you put the gear selector in 2nd gear. The it would have 1st and 2nd gear then you could up shift the car in to 3rd and 4th one gear at a time. But at anytime if you get in to the gas anything past 1/4 throttle the car free-revs.


(as of today) Went out side and started the car to let it run for a little while, so it's not just sitting there while I try to figure out what's wrong. Then decided to put the car in gear to see if it was still doing the same thing, and it was. Put the car in 2nd gear and slowly pressed the gas, it was fine, then gave an instant half throttle... tires broke loose and then I felt something "let go" or snap. So now at this point there is no forward gear, but reverse still works fine?


Any ideas? Input-shaft maybe? The trans fluid is still the correct color, no metal shavings on the dipstick, so I dunno.


Now before everyone starts saying that I am just an idiot for going to the same shop so many times let me give you a little back ground.


1st must have been a faulty kit because it started slipping the day I got it back, brought the car back and it was rebuilt for free.

2nd trans (free one, but not really haha) I straight up beat the crap out of.

3rd trans I sprayed the **** out of (no the mph in my sig is not w/spray). No window switch, just a WOT switch, sprayed through shifts and everything. That trans lasted a lot longer than I thought it would.

4th trans I was going out to dinner one night and "fell into" a drainage grate that looked lie this "V" it had no type of lighting around it so nobody could see it. Thing was about 3 feet long 2.5-3 feet wide and 1 foot deep. And my car is not stock ride hight:



So that resulted in a cracked casing, blah blah blah "fixed" the casing, worked for a little while and then no more.

5th trans (this one) I have no clue about becuse I didn't really do anything to this trans, it was never sprayed and never "abused."

Any ideas?

 

get a new trans. You need one anyways.....the epoxy was a "quick fix"
I've HEARD that sometimes it pointless rebuilding the same tranny over and over again and its better to start with another.....

Find another shop. I know who your talking about.....find someone else. Look at Drews bronco...he had 3 tranny in it.....but at the same time look at his mach1 only one. I dont like places that are "hit or miss" When the t56 goes in my camaro I will not go to where Drew/Jason had theirs done. And I will probly get an exchange since mine already has one rebuild on it.

 

The epoxy was trans 4, this one is (the 5th one) is a new trans from then. The car got a different trans for the 1st build, the 3rd build, and the 5th build.

 

Well then.... I would just go with this then.

 

I already said if it's something that isn't an easy fix, something that requires a rebuild that I am going with Century Trans.

 

I'd say something is wrong in the forward clutches, forward piston, or your input sprag is trashed. The stock 4L60E forward pistons are aluminum, and they crack. We always upgrade them to late style steel pistons in our "Pro Race" rebuild. This upgrade replaces 3 pistons and 2 spring packs in the forward drum. We also replace the failure prone "single cage" SKF input sprags with Borg Warner "dual cahe" sprags. These 2 upgrades would eliminate any repeat problems in those areas. Unfortunately, many transmission builders don't make these changes.


A 4L80E swap is definitely the wrong direction. They eat too much HP, and are too heavy. Most cars slow down .2-.3 seconds in the quarter after doing a swap. We've built a few '60E's for people who swapped back.

The point is, a PROPERLY built '60E will take alot of abuse. We have them in 10 second cars...pulling 1.46 60 ft. times.
With the CZ special we're running right now, we could do one for you for $1300 + hard parts (if any)...With your supplied core. Shipping from Fl. would run about $75 each way.

Thanks,
Frank
CPT

 

So, how much for something that would suit me...


Heads that flow 277/210 @ .600, port matched intake, GM 847 (234/242 on a 112LSA), 52mm TB, PaceSetter LT's 3" y-pipe & cat-back w/cut-out, 3.73's BMR Tubular Ajustable Torque Arm, SFC's, couple other bolt-ons, and a NX Wet kit.


On a mis-ajusted torque arm (+2* instead of -2*) the car already went 1.7xx 60's.

 

Oh yeah, I'll prolly need a new converter and trans cooler. I have a Yank 2800 now and I don't think it is big enough for one, and I don't know what the inside of it looks like.

 

Yank can do a restall for you. It'll cost less than a new converter. It would be $1300 + hard parts (if any) for the transmission. I can get you the best cooler available that will fit infront of the radiator on an f-body for $75.

Is the case itself cracked? If so, I can get a replacement case for an extra $125.

Thanks,
Frank
CPT

 

No the case is fine, my old trans had a cracked case.


I looked at your web site and it says that this tranny is good for 650HP... but is that RWHP or at the crank? My car is going to make ~600RWHP + or - 20 on kit, I just don't know that I want to be that clase to the limits of the trans.

 

Ummm...Where does it have any HP limit on our web site? We haven't found a definite limit yet.

Thanks,
Frank
CPT

 

On the website it says that it is good for 650HP, but it doesn't state RWHP or HP at the crank.

 

Wow, just looked again and didn't see it... haha... now I don't know where I got that number from.