Yeah sure, just posted some pics with my old setup, my new setup is the same except the intake isn't orange & new heads & FLP headers instead of SLPs, but it looks identical never the less.

http://www3.telus.net/bunker/pics/

 

Looks good. I'm waiting for MBA to get back with me on their new fuel rail covers that have the coil mounts built in.

http://www.mbaproducts.com/images/lt1_frc_cop_lrg.jpg

Where did you end up hiding the LTCC box itself? I didn't see it in the pictures.

 

I just put it right under the cold air intake so that I can take it out easily, also its nicely hidden & isn't in the way of anything.

I was thinking of getting corvette fuel rail covers to hide the wiring, I'll post some pics when thats done. Reason I like them where they are is because you can use really short 5" wires.

Matt.

 

The Spec clutches (stages 2-4 for sure, not positive about 1 and 5) use the same pressure plate. The only differences are in the disk material and configuration. Stage 2 is sprung, Kevlar pads, Stage 3 is sprung, carbon pads, stage 4 is unsprung, carbon pads. Spec also has a stage 3 hybrid that is supposed to be slightly less aggressive than the pure stage 3, but still hold 600 (sprung, kevlar/carbon combination). I'm going to try it. I've never seen it on vendor website's, and it's not even on Spec's site, but the part number is SC423H. It's a little more expensive than the pure stage 3.

Any grabby clutch will shock the rear end more than the stock one. I'm using the stock rear with 4.11 gears. This is the primary reason I use street tires only. They are my fuse. I hope to save the rear end for a while yet.

I've been using a stock replacement clutch until now. Frankly, it's not too bad for stock level power and a little higher, maybe up to 330 or so rwhp. They're much cheaper than the performance replacements as well.

 

It'll even spin them with a stock clutch? I'm getting mixed reactions and its making me nervous!!

The Single Disk from Mcleod would comparable to the Spec 3?

What kind of numbers if your TA putting out? How much boost?

 

I'm in need of a clutch on my mostly stock M6 car... Probably about 325 rwhp. This summer I'm doing repairs, clutch, and headers (Optispark, Water Pump, plugs and wires, learning LT1 Edit and reprogramming a little, fixing broken interior pieces, power window windows, etc.)

Next year is the big year for horsepower. I'm rebulding a completely new LT1 core that will have at least 500rwhp, possibly naturally aspirated, or if funding is well it may be supercharged. So I may as well go with the right clutch now...

I like the McLeod Dual Friction setup, and worry about the daily driveability of it in a nearly stock car. I know it's overkill. How will it drive in daily driving? Chatter or anything?

The next think that's important is that I drive it like I MEAN it! I love to do burnouts and have developed somewhat of a skill for what has nearly become an art form... Black mark sculpting. I have several tradmarks, such as the & and $, which tell my buddies that I've been by recently. So point being, it's somewhat amazing that I haven't scattered the rear end yet, although my clutch currently slips when I do the real dastardly clutch dumps required to get the proper slide in the proper direction at the proper speed, etc.

So I'm not afraid to blow my rear end, that'll just mean it's time to upgrade!

But I'm looking for any other negative side affects of the Dual Friction setup for normal daily driving that I might not expect...

Paul 'X'

 

No, the stock clutch would not allow me to spin the tires in 3rd gear. I can do it with the Spec though. The Spec clutch is still a single disc setup so it and the McLoud single should be pretty close in what they are able to handle.

As far as my setup, I see 7 PSI of boost around 5200-5500 and a full 5 PSI by 3000 RPM. When it was initially dynoed with the stock injectors, FMU, and a halfway decent tune, I put down 441 RWHP and 462 RWTQ. That was a few miles ago. On my last dyno, I only did about 380 RWHP with no FMU, way bigger injectors, a tune that was out of whack, and a leaking AFPR that was spilling gas into the intake (partial cause of the bad tune/low numbers). When my head gasket blew last month, I found that the springs were weak and the valves were bouncing slightly and not sealing completely (actually losing boost in the cylinders, but didn't show on the manifold reading). I cannot wait to see what the car does with the ported heads/valve job, 224/236 blower cam, and 7 psi of boost, if I ever get it running again. Hopefully by the end of my weekend (wednesday). There are some pics in my profile if you're interested, I'm also building a turbo 383 for the car, I just received a few pics of a PTE-74 GTS turbo that I really want to use and I purchased some LS1 coils to use when I convert over to the LTCC setup.

It's only money, and you can't take it with you.

 

Dude!! You want more then 480lbs of torque? LMFAO!! Thats insane!! hahahaha

You drive that thing daily? No problems with the s/c either?

I didn't mean in 3rd... I meant a stock car with a stock clutch spinning them in first at 2k with good tires. Sorry.

 

Nothing fellas?

 

well i talked to spec a few months ago before i bought my spec stage III and they said that they only make one stage III now, it is a ceramic/carbon mix, not kevlar. I've got a little over 1000 miles on mine now and it takes off allmost as smooth as stock but it grabs like a mother, i was geting some nasty wheelhop going into 3rd, not too good for the rearend tho people have also been haveing issues with the mcleoud single disc due to the disc expanding so its hard to change gears, i also don't think it will hold as much as the stage III.

 

I've put about 800 miles on my Stage 3. The first 600 miles of break in were hell, but now that its broke in I love it. When I was breaking it in I was told not to get on it too much as it could mess up the flywheel, so I drove it with extra care. Now its running great and hopefully will last a while.

 

just got a t56 conversion. grease used the single disc mcleod and it is burned up. i was thinking of getting the street twin because i will be doing a head and cam package with other goodies, looking to get 400-420 to the wheels. Would the street twin be overkill or not, and how is the pedal feel of the street twin. Thanks