SPEC Stage III Clutch users here
I have a stage III kevlar clutch from SPEC on my Stroked LT1
I'm making about 390RWHP but plan to go above 400.

The current 4 disc Kevlar only lasted about 12k miles.
the thing will lose holding pressure after getting hot now.
I have hardly ever driven the car hard and have never droped the clutch at high RPM. I do mostly street driving in moderate traffic at times which means some stop and go casuing me to slip the clutch a bit to get started. this is needed with the bigger cam I have and the chatter I get with the Kevlar material.

Is this normal wear people are seeing with around 400RWHP?
Spec says it is supose to hold much more than this BTW

And,
I hear that SPEC now has a 5 disc carbon version that is not as chattery as the kevlar and holds just as much as the Kevlar.
Anyone have some feedback using the newer 5 disc with more than 400RWHP? Chatter in daily driving? Hold at the track?

What would people recommend for a replacement?

 

I've never had any problems with my spec clutch. The best clutch would easily be the street twin from McLeod.

 

All kinds of people have complained on here about their SPEC clutches. There has been just about as many saying they haven't had problems. I'd just get a street twin, they are rated to about 1200hp. The cheapest place to get them is http://www.redlineperformanceengineering.com/ atleast that I know of. They are not cheap but they do come with a flywheel and I think an adjustable cylinder too.

 

What if you used that clutch for a car with about 330lbs of torque and like 300rwhp? Referring to the Street Twin Mcleod

 

That is an awesome price for a street twin. I'm going to them when my spec wears out/burns out.

As far as using a street twin on a mostly stock car... you'd have one seriously bad *** clutch and would never have to worry about breaking it. You will probably kill your rearend though since the stock 10 bolt doesn't like to be shocked very much.

Also, the street twin is rebuildable so you only have to fork out a large wad of cash on the initial investment.

 

So I would break my rearend your saying with that clutch? I was told to go with the Star Spec 4 with those numbers... because of the quality being much greater then the Spec 3 and the little price difference.

So the Street Twin is the wrong path?

 

That's a tough call. Both clutches will hold extremely well, the street twin will have the edge definately. What kills the rearends on 6 speed cars is the initial shock of a clutch dump and all the power hitting the rearend at once. The reason an automatic car will generally last alot longer is because you can preload the rearend before you launch and it lessens the initial shock. If you drive the street twin equipped car without dumping the clutch, the stock rearend should be ok.

Honestly, I'd go with a stage 3 kevlar. Mine holds up to a 440 RWHP supercharged car and hasn't given me any troubles.

 

i got my spec stage 3 like 2 weeks ago and i have put 540 miles on it and it still Chatters pretty hard sometimes (feels like my car is ganna break)

 

When you say dump... you mean launch right? Because I don't really do burnouts... I mean I might, but not clutch dumping... just punching it from a roll. L0L

But you think i'm better off with a Star Spec 3? Then I guess thats what i'll lean towards since i'm the novice here. Thanks man

 

Yeah, I mean launching. Just roll out a little big before you nail it and you should be ok.

Also, go ahead and replace the slave cylinder inside the transmission and check the rear main for leaks. That stage 3 is still ~ $450 so it isn't exactly cheap, but it works like a stocker in my car.

 

You seem like a pretty knowledable fellow Mr. WS6. I asked this question in a different post, but I got a bunch of mixed answers.

Even with good tires, not DR's, but good tires. If you nail a basically Stock 94 Trans AM GT at 2k in first gear.. shouldn't the tires light up? Alls thats done to it is a CAI and Flowmasters Catback. B&M Ripper too, but that doesn't matter for WOT at 2k in first!!

 

You are better off with a mcleod single disk.

 

Thankyou for the complement, I've had years of wasting money on parts that don't work to teach me a few things, and I'm still doing it (double roller timing chain and a supercharger don't work together, trust me).

Yes, you will most likely start spinning the tires if you get pedal happy in first gear. That shouldn't hurt the rearend because there won't be as much pressure on it if the tires are spinning. What kills the stock rearend is when the tires grab and the motor continues to torque down on the gears which will make them do all sorts of funny things (like exit through the rear cover).

The McLeod single should be comprable to the Spec. Either would be an upgrade from a stocker.

Ps. You should try smoking the tires in 3rd gear @ 50 mph, that's a rush as well as a good way to break things.

 

why no double roller with blower? makes no sense

 

The pulley won't line up. I can get the stock accessory pulley to line up and work although it is on the verge of walking off. The supercharger crank pulley is pushed out too far and won't line up with the pulley on the snout of the blower. I could cut down the hub and the blower pulley to make it fit, but then it would be worthless when I sell the blower so I'm just going to stick the stock gears and a new timing chain back in there and call it a day. Car never sees 6000+ RPM anyway.

If it weren't for the supercharger, I would leave the double roller in there. I'm going to stick it on my 383 since it will use a turbocharger instead of a supercharger. Only one belt then.

Got any pics of where you have your LTCC box and coils mounted? I just bought a set of coils for mine and I'm looking for ideas.