Online walkthrough in removing a '95 4L60E?
There's so little to it that I doubt anyone has written it up. Besides the obvious, a couple of tips though: remember to drain it out prior to removing it. Tilt the whole motor down as the final step before sliding it out backwards. Don't forget to remove the electrical connectors. Basically, just disconnect everything connected to it, take out all the bellhousing bolts, and slide it out. It can be hard to reach a couple of the bolts, especially at the upper left. Use a long extension and a "wobbler" (U-joint) on your socket.
Any specific questions?
Rich Krause
Any specific questions?
Rich Krause
Originally posted by rskrause
There's so little to it that I doubt anyone has written it up. Besides the obvious, a couple of tips though: remember to drain it out prior to removing it. Tilt the whole motor down as the final step before sliding it out backwards. Don't forget to remove the electrical connectors. Basically, just disconnect everything connected to it, take out all the bellhousing bolts, and slide it out. It can be hard to reach a couple of the bolts, especially at the upper left. Use a long extension and a "wobbler" (U-joint) on your socket.
Any specific questions?
Rich Krause
There's so little to it that I doubt anyone has written it up. Besides the obvious, a couple of tips though: remember to drain it out prior to removing it. Tilt the whole motor down as the final step before sliding it out backwards. Don't forget to remove the electrical connectors. Basically, just disconnect everything connected to it, take out all the bellhousing bolts, and slide it out. It can be hard to reach a couple of the bolts, especially at the upper left. Use a long extension and a "wobbler" (U-joint) on your socket.
Any specific questions?
Rich Krause
Originally posted by warwickbass
Yeah, the importance of torquing the the transmission-to-engine bolts and torque converter-to-driveplate bolts to 35 and 46 ft-lbs? My dad is gonna be spearheading this operation with my assistance. He just says use the impact and go on. NOTHING at all can go wrong. Because I'm driving up to St. Louis July 3rd. Kinda a time crunch.
Yeah, the importance of torquing the the transmission-to-engine bolts and torque converter-to-driveplate bolts to 35 and 46 ft-lbs? My dad is gonna be spearheading this operation with my assistance. He just says use the impact and go on. NOTHING at all can go wrong. Because I'm driving up to St. Louis July 3rd. Kinda a time crunch.
I wouldn't.. I'd torque them properly..
Or at least hand tighten them using 'feel' [from experience] to tighten them properly..
Too tight they may shear off.. then you get to do it all again..
A torque wrench works well..
Or doing them manually, with a wrench [after a 'few' years of doing this stuff, I can get it close just by 'feel'..]
A lot closer than cranking it with an air impact...
I highly recommend torque wrench, or at least do it 'by hand'..
Or doing them manually, with a wrench [after a 'few' years of doing this stuff, I can get it close just by 'feel'..]
A lot closer than cranking it with an air impact...
I highly recommend torque wrench, or at least do it 'by hand'..
Originally posted by Mtrhds94Z
A torque wrench works well..
Or doing them manually, with a wrench [after a 'few' years of doing this stuff, I can get it close just by 'feel'..]
A lot closer than cranking it with an air impact...
I highly recommend torque wrench, or at least do it 'by hand'..
A torque wrench works well..
Or doing them manually, with a wrench [after a 'few' years of doing this stuff, I can get it close just by 'feel'..]
A lot closer than cranking it with an air impact...
I highly recommend torque wrench, or at least do it 'by hand'..
Rich Krause
Originally posted by rskrause
I agree with the above. Torque on these types of fasteners isn't critical though, and it's not easy to get an accurate torque reading when it's already hard to get to the fastener. In this case, tight but not too tight should do it.
Rich Krause
I agree with the above. Torque on these types of fasteners isn't critical though, and it's not easy to get an accurate torque reading when it's already hard to get to the fastener. In this case, tight but not too tight should do it.
Rich Krause
With so many extensions, swivels, etc a torque wrench is useless. A tad above medium-tight works fine.
Originally posted by rskrause
I agree with the above. Torque on these types of fasteners isn't critical though, and it's not easy to get an accurate torque reading when it's already hard to get to the fastener. In this case, tight but not too tight should do it.
Rich Krause
I agree with the above. Torque on these types of fasteners isn't critical though, and it's not easy to get an accurate torque reading when it's already hard to get to the fastener. In this case, tight but not too tight should do it.
Rich Krause
Originally posted by rskrause
Just to clarify: if I am installing a tranny with the motor out, I will use a torque wrench. But if it's with the motor in the car it's not practical or necessary.
Rich
Just to clarify: if I am installing a tranny with the motor out, I will use a torque wrench. But if it's with the motor in the car it's not practical or necessary.
Rich
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