LT1 Clutch Master U bolt part number?
LT1 Clutch Master U bolt part number?
I have alomst every part I need for my LONG AWAITED T56 Conversion. I am so anxious to get started but I have two questions.....
Do I NEED the adjustable master cylinder with my mcleod dual friction clutch? I dont have the moey for the aluminum piece so I am going to have to go with that ram clutches plastic master that has the adustable rod...If I HAVE to....
Is there a part number or easy way to get the bolts or U bolt that secures the master cylinder to the fire wall? If the adustable comes with hardware and I NEED it then I guess I will just get that but if I dont need it then I will have to find the hardware seperately. never thoguht this little fastener would be holding up an entire project. DAngIT!
Do I NEED the adjustable master cylinder with my mcleod dual friction clutch? I dont have the moey for the aluminum piece so I am going to have to go with that ram clutches plastic master that has the adustable rod...If I HAVE to....
Is there a part number or easy way to get the bolts or U bolt that secures the master cylinder to the fire wall? If the adustable comes with hardware and I NEED it then I guess I will just get that but if I dont need it then I will have to find the hardware seperately. never thoguht this little fastener would be holding up an entire project. DAngIT!
update: I contacted RAM Their Adustable master DOES NOT come with hardware... What a ripoff... $350 from mcleod with hardware... $175 from ram, plastic, no hardware... For this small piece that costs $20 to manufacture...
Guess no matter what I will need to find the u-bolt or bolts to secure it to the fire wall.... Any ideas fellas?
Guess no matter what I will need to find the u-bolt or bolts to secure it to the fire wall.... Any ideas fellas?
ok new problem, got my pedal assembly from GM today. Everyone said it had everything on it... WRONG. I don't have the two sensor looking pieces with the plastic clips that are off the the far left in the picture. What are these switches and what are the part numbers. Another damn trip to the dealership. Every time I get one main part I find out there are a few tiny little pieces that you NEED. This is all the stuff they don't warn you about when you do the t-56 swap....

The two sensors to the left.. must be just on a manual... Guessing one is the clutch kill switch and the other one is????

The two sensors to the left.. must be just on a manual... Guessing one is the clutch kill switch and the other one is????
The easiest way to do it is to just have the dealer pull up their schematics, they have an awesome program.
But I also noticed you are missing the retaining clip on the clutch pedal. It holds the master cylinder to the clutch pedal, and I just happen to know the part number is 03817880.
If you need any other part numbers just let me know, I'm doing the swap and I have a lot of them.
But I also noticed you are missing the retaining clip on the clutch pedal. It holds the master cylinder to the clutch pedal, and I just happen to know the part number is 03817880.
If you need any other part numbers just let me know, I'm doing the swap and I have a lot of them.
I am switching from auto to manual so I have whatever comes on an auto pedal assembly but not what comes with the manual... Just those two plastic things to the left hand side.... I would rather get them from gm parts direct since I wasted $50 from the dealer on the pedal assembly instead of ordering online...
So whatever those tow things are off to the left hand side. this picture is not of what I have. I ordered my pedal assembly and it came all metal, bare, no sensors,
So whatever those tow things are off to the left hand side. this picture is not of what I have. I ordered my pedal assembly and it came all metal, bare, no sensors,
The black switch on the far left is for the starter interlock so you can't start the car without pushing the clutch pedal. The white switch is for the cruise control disconnect. With the m6 there are two white switches. One for the clutch and one for the brake pedal. They are connected by a Y-harness and then to your under dash wiring harness. The big swich with two connections is the brake light switch. You can just use the switch you have on your auto pedals. The two white switches connect to the small connector that was on the brake switch on the auto pedals. On the m6 only the brake light connector goes to the brake light switch.
You can just buy the switchs at the dealer or an auto parts place. It wouldn't be worth ordering from Gmpartsdirect.
Most people don't use the white switch on the clutch pedal because they don't have the Y-harness. They just use the one on the brake pedal. Just don't press the clutch pedal with the cruise on.
The wires for the starter interlock switch have to be run from the six wire connector under the console that was connected to your auto shifter. You can just use two female spade connectors to hook it up to the switch if you don't have the GM pigtail. Some people just connect the two wires together and don't use the interlock. If you do that your car will start in gear without the clutch pedal pushed.
It's been a while since I did the swap but I think the info about where each switch connects is correct. A factory shop manual with the wiring diagrams is a big help if you have trouble with the wiring part of the swap.
You can just buy the switchs at the dealer or an auto parts place. It wouldn't be worth ordering from Gmpartsdirect.
Most people don't use the white switch on the clutch pedal because they don't have the Y-harness. They just use the one on the brake pedal. Just don't press the clutch pedal with the cruise on.
The wires for the starter interlock switch have to be run from the six wire connector under the console that was connected to your auto shifter. You can just use two female spade connectors to hook it up to the switch if you don't have the GM pigtail. Some people just connect the two wires together and don't use the interlock. If you do that your car will start in gear without the clutch pedal pushed.
It's been a while since I did the swap but I think the info about where each switch connects is correct. A factory shop manual with the wiring diagrams is a big help if you have trouble with the wiring part of the swap.
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Brandon Wittmer
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
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Dec 7, 2014 12:15 PM



