Like the title says.. I changed the master and the slave cylinder and its doing the same thing and not disengauging all the way.. I can actually drive it now but its still pretty bad.. Im thinking I didnt get all the air out.. But I tried to bleed it again and nothing.. no air or anything came out.. I hear the fluid in the master swishing around when I push on the slave, is that air or fluid? It doesnt seem to want to come out at all (the air). This is really pissing me off.. Im tired of throwing money at this damn thing.. I just put a new clutch in and it started to do this.. Im using a spec stage 4 pressure plate and a mcleod dual friction clutch.. The pressure plate should be like the lt4 cause apparently thats what they all do is paint them and stick their name on it. all made by valeo correct? well anyhow.. do you all have any suggestions? I was about to buy an adjustable master but I dont have the money right now and didnt think it was necessary since I dont have a twin disc or anything..

 

i'd check again for air, when i did mine... it took me forever and i still didn't get it right

let a mechanic or someone else that does it all the time do it they may have a trick that helps

and about the spec 4 clutch.... mine is fine and i love it

 

I know how to bleed them pretty well.. all of the air is out... I think its the clutch pad.. im just going to get another stage 4 pad and that should help.. instead of the mcleod disc..

 

so the only part of the spec 4 you are using is the pressure plate

it could help if you went with a spec 4 disc, they work well together IMHO.

 

Oh yea i know..I had a spec stage 4 disc.. I kinda like messed it up... check sig.

 

is the slave shimmed correctly??

i had to put a 1/16" shim behind the slave when i installed my Spec 4

 

If you put a shim behind it.. wouldnt that put it farther away from the clutch fork? that making more disengaugment problems?

 

oops...sorry...

i'm going off of my LS1 experience. not sure how the LT1 stuff works.

 

I talked to spec today.. they said I have to use their pad.. got a good deal from spec.. gave it to me for 129 plus shipping.. we'll see how that goes..

 

I talked to spec today.. they said I have to use their pad.. got a good deal from spec.. gave it to me for 129 plus shipping.. we'll see how that goes..

 

Ok.. got the spec clutch in.. It disengauges fully now but doesnt engauge till the very last inches of pedal travel.. anyone know what this is?

 

Sorry for bringing this to the top but did you find a way to fix the pedal travel?
I got the same issue.

 

The disk thickness (uncompressed) is more critical to the pull clutch than the conventional pushers. The air gap is very very tight. If your disk is slightly above thicker than the OEM organic disk spec then you get the disengagement issues like you described, I have been there and done that. There is nothing that will remedy the problem other than an adjustable master or a slightly thinner disk.

The fact that your disk may still be a tad on the thick side means that the engagement starts when the pedal is very close to the floor.

If there were a way to easily mod the existing master cylinder push rod and equip it with an adjustable mounting eye then life would be perfect. I would love to lengthen my master cylinder rod just a tad but I dont want to buy a $300 adjustable master.

 

I had a similar problem with disengaging the clutch when I installed my McLeod Dual Performance clutch/pressure plate and Spec flywheel. It seemed like I just needed a little bit more slave cylinder travel to work right. After looking over the clutch pedal arrangement I tried removing the rubber bump stop for the clutch pedal lever. This added about .070" travel to the master cylinder travel and helped quite a bit. Next, I used my Dremel tool and ground a notch in the clutch pedal lever where it hit the stop (where the rubber bumper used to be). The notch was about .060" and this took care of the hard shifting problem . So the total effect of this was adding about .130" to the clutch pedal master cylinder travel. Not as good as having an adjustable master cylinder, but it worked for me.

 

I removed the rubber thing.
Never thought of notching the pedal, I will be doing this sometime to get that extra little bit. I wonder if there are any other ways of cheating the master to provide more throw?