Well then, thats false advertising. LOL I think they need to change that.

 

The guy at the machine shop said that it just needs 3-5mm taken off and I'll have it back today. They charge between $20 and $35 for flywheel resurfacing, so even at the high end, that's not bad at all. Unfortunately, I didn't do any of the work last time, so I don't know exactly how much was taken off. I found a post that said a new flywheel is 1.828 at the pressure plate bolt ears. I guess I'll see if they can measure this for me while it's there and use the difference to figure out what size shim to get. If they won't do it, then I'll just get a shim that's 5mm or so thicker than they take off to help make up a little for the last time it was turned.

For those interested, I updated the page, replacing the crummy flywheel pictures with a good one. If you want to just see the flywheel picture, here's a link. Note that it looks worse in the picture. There are no deep scratches. http://lucasz.dyndns.org:81/Clutch/DSCN1064.JPG

-Lucas

 

I decided to stick to the SLP setup to save money. The difference between that and the McLeod after shipping was about $100! When I called SLP to place the order, they said I absolutely need the "new and improved" hydraulic setup (Part 12559912) and they highly recommended that the flywheel be replace instead of turned. The rep claimed that even the GM people say the same thing because the LT1s are extremely sensitive to depth. I mentioned getting a shim to make up the difference and he basically just let it go so as not to argue. I'm going to take my chances using a shim.

 

hey did you consider the Z06 clutch? I know it's from GM, blah, blah, but it's supposed to be 20% better than the stock Ls1 clutch and it's $320 for the FW, PP, and clutch disc.

here's what I put in a few weeks ago:
12570806 -- $320 clutch kit
--If you're a 98-00, I'd get the slave at least:
12570277 -- $139 master cylinder
15046288 -- $91 slave

My clutch was okay, but the slave had failed...

here's some pics:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/guckrob/my_photos

 

I did see that, but it's LS1. I'm 93 LT1.

 

HELP!

Okay, I got everything together minus the new hydraulic setup which arrives on Wed. The old one wasn't bad, it's just that SLP said I needed the newer unit to support their pressure plate. I figured I could get by with the old one until Wed. when the new one arrives. Also, the old pilot bearing was completely screwed, so I'm not 100% sure that I put in the new one correctly. I read that there's a flat side and a beveled side. Mine had a flat side and a side where you could see a circular line. I put the flat side towards the clutch. Other than that, can't think of a thing I could have done wrong. I even put the fork on the TO when the transmission was about 1/2 inch away from the bell housing to make sure I could see it go on. The car started up fine, but when I went to push on the clutch pedal, it easily went about 3/4 to the floor, then got very difficult to push in. When I lifted my foot, it only came back up 3/4 as high as it should have. I pumped it and nothing happened. I figured what the heck and gave a little more pressure. *pop* and the pedal drops to the floor. I screwed the hydraulic system. Fluid dumped out the bolt on the slave unit. At first I thought about what SLP said and figured the old one just wasn't up to snuff, but then I remembered all the free play in the pedal which wouldn't make sense if the old unit simply wasn't strong enough.

-Lucas

 

Somehow, the fork came off the TO bearing when it was all put together. I don't know how this happened since I put it on when the tranny and bell housing were being mated. In any case, I managed to replace the hydraulic system. Had to remove the brake booster in order to replace the master cylinder. The thick bundle of cables and brake booster left no room to do it otherwise. Got it all back together and everything is working great! Taking it easy for the 500 mile break-in.

-Lucas