Well, I did it. I managed to get the top bolts off the transmission by using a jack and wood to push up on the harmonic balancer/dampener. I couldn't even see them initially and was starting to believe my books that show 6 bolts instead of 8 (Helm, Chilton, and Haynes. They all show the same picture). That wasn't too bad, as long as you tilt the rear end of the tranny down as I just described. I then managed to get that satanic top, drivers side bolt out of the bell housing by hammering in a part of a jackstand and prying the bellhousing and body away from each other just enough (PITA!!!). Those 6 front bolts were on so tight that I broke the hinged socket adapter thingie and every time a bolt broke free, the violent movement would couse my daisy chain of extensions to disconnect somewhere and send extensions flying. Also, I should mention that I didn't have any plate under the driveshaft and torque arm and I had no plate under my cat. I did have to remove the bolts that connect the transmission to the cat holding thingie. It's a small piece of metal with padding where the metal protrusion from the cat slides in. Also, it helps to use a screwdriver to separate the driveshaft and push it forward enough to drop it and pull out. I think those are all the comments that I'd like to add for others to read in the future when they run into the same problems.

Now here's some pictures for your viewing pleasure.
http://lucasz.dyndns.org:81/Clutch

The clutch is surely toast. But what about the pressure plate? It looks questionable. Can I just clean it up with brake parts cleaner and put it back in? I'm planning on replacing the throwout bearing regardless. And what about the flywheel? I should be able to have it resurfaced if it's got the required thickness, right? I took those two pictures at night and will replace it with a clearer shot when I get home and remove it. I'm going to replace the pilot bearing and rear main seal while I've got all this crap out.

-Lucas

 

WOW, i would said it was time for new clutch for sure....
Flywheel could possibley be resurfaced. Just need to take it and have it checked.
The Pressure Plate is junk, get a new one when you buy the disk and a new Throw-out bearing will come with the PP.
What all do you have done to the car? See what kind of clutch u need.
Brad

 

Right now it's just some basic bolt ons. Lingenfelter CAI, underpulley, throttlebody bypass, Pro 5.0 shifter with Lou's Short Stick, Kenny Brown subframe connectors, Global West tubular upper control arm with DEL-A-LUM bushings, 160 degree stat. I'm planning on getting a chip real soon to kick the fan on sooner and a 52mm throttlebody. After that is eventually MAC mid headers and hooker exhaust. Regarding the clutch, I've got my eyes on the SLP assembly, but am open to other suggestions.

-Lucas

 

I would recommend the Mcleod Performance disk and there PP w/TO. Thats what i am putting on my car in a couple weeks
Pretty good price. Can be found here.

Mcleod Performance Disk & Pressure Plate w/TO

Just get your flywheel resurfaced and you good to go.

 

What about the Street Twin setup? I see posts stating $850, but the cheapest I can find it for is $950. Most places have it listed for $1,200. The Aluminum is lighter, but is there anything I should be concerned about, any downsides?

-Lucas

 

Thats a pretty mean clutch for pretty much stock car. Alot of guys run it, but mainly just because they are planning on heads and cam soon after. It might be kinda harsh at first, but it'll break in and you'll get use to it. I was gonna go with the street twin, but, i am on a tight budget. So i am just gonna save up for it later.

 

I guess I'll wait and see if the flywheel can be resurfaced and put back on. If it can, then I'm springing for the setup you pointed to. From what I'm reading it seems as though it's worth the extra $50 over the SLP setup. If it can't be reused and needs to be replaced, I might as well pay the extra $200 over SLP price to get the Street Twin setup with an aluminum flywheel. It includes the hydrolic system which would cost me $100. My current one doesn't look very pretty, so that's an attractive bonus. I would like to save money, but after the bleeding knuckle and sore body, I want to do this right the first time. Besides, it'll be nice to know that the clutch is good for more power. Make the 10 bolt rear end stronger and get a stronger driveshaft and I'm ready for ported heads, cam and gears at my leisure.

-Lucas

 

Sounds like a good plan. Let us know which one you pick once you get your flywheel checked out.
Brad

 

Damn, you wore it right down to the rivits! Now thats getting every mile out of your clutch! lol

Definately replace your pressure plate. Your "supposed" to no matter what, even though some people don't. But in your case, it's a definate yes. The rivits on the friction disk have started to scrape into your PP and Flywheel. If you're lucky they can machine your flywheel BUT you can't start taking off much more than 10 thou otherwize you are going to run into problems. Most I would say you should take off is 15 thou. If it needs more than that to get those grooves out, I'd toss it and buy a new one.

 

I think I'm SOL on the flywheel then. When a shop replaced the clutch almost 3 years ago, the mechanic said it was barely machineable. I'm taking it to the machine shop tomorrow AM and will post an update. I'm secretly hoping it's ****ed so I won't feel guilty about spending the money on the street twin setup.

And yes, I'm a little pissed that the clutch went this fast. I don't ride the clutch. I'm thinking maybe a bearing wasn't replaced or the flywheel should have been. Anyhow, what's done is done.

-Lucas

 

Lucas,
Just pick up the Steet twin and don't look back. It'll be the best clutch you'll ever buy.

 

Lucas,

Where have you found the Street twin at for $950??
I need a clutch right now and I can't find anything close to that price

Thanks
Tom

 

Here ya go Tom,

Texas Speed & Performance

 

Thanks but I've called them twice and their web site is wrong. They are at 1,066

 

Simply get a flywheel shim from a local machine shop and it will put the flywheel back where it needs to be. No worries, and you save some money. Whats the point in putting a street twin in with your current mods?