Drag Racing Technique Improve your track times

What class are you planning to run next season?

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Old 01-10-2007, 03:19 PM
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hey scott,

I plan to do the same thing as u, rebuild the tranny and replace my 10 bolt with a 12 so the car can handle a lot of power then go with a great H/C combo. i plan on sending my 4L60E out to CPT next winter, did they do a great job and had good customer service?
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Old 01-11-2007, 05:59 AM
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Some people would disagree with us, but I believe it is a good idea to take care of the rest of the car (transmission, converter, 12-bolt, suspension, wheels/tires, weight reduction, suspension, exhaust, etc.) before you build an engine. I hope now that I can race with confidence knowing that I won't break parts and when I want to go faster (hopefully 9s someday on the bottle) I have the right pieces to do it.

I haven't driven the car yet (have a couple minor details to button up) so I can't testify to the quality of the build on the 4L60E from Frank. I will say that the price was right, compared to what's out there considering that I basically have a 4L65E now, and without a doubt, the customer service was second to none! I would use CPT again just for that fact. You won't go wrong with him!!

Good luck and keep us up-to-date on how things are going.


Scott
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Old 01-11-2007, 06:56 AM
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Scott,

I think you're doing all the correct things to have your car both fast and reliable (the complete package)! That is also my approach, however, it is also fun to do performance upgrades one at a time to see how much each one improves performance, or improves your ET.

WD

Last edited by The Engineer; 01-11-2007 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 01-11-2007, 07:07 AM
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WD,

I grew up with some quality Stock Eliminator racers and they taught me the same thing. Make one change at a time and see how much it helped you. Having built an Impala SS (and spent $$$ on things that didn't work) I pretty much knew the direction I wanted to go with this one. It's funny (most people wouldn't understand) but when I brought the Formula home the only place I drove initially was the State Port about a mile from my house to weigh it in OEM form (3360 believe it or not). After that it went on jackstands to get torn down and go on a diet. For awhile there it was looking a little suspect with only the body and engine in it. It's coming together now and will be ready perhaps after this long weekend, with the good parts that I invested in it, to either go H/C or 383 with spray someday and not have to change too much other stuff.
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Old 01-11-2007, 01:39 PM
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yea since im short on cash my progress is gonna be extremly slow compared to urs...i dont plan to be ready for a motor rebuild for another 2 years.... but ur right i want to be reliable....i dont want to break parts. whats a powerful engine with a broken tranny or rear end? that u cant afford to fix? lol glad to know someone else is thinkin the same way i am... o i have a ? whats a stronger rear end a 12 bolt? or a 9"??? and BTW im also still in high school so thats why the budget is so bad lol
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Old 01-11-2007, 01:57 PM
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From what I've read, IIRC, the 9" is stronger. However, I don't think I'll ever make enough power to break this Moser with 35 spline axles and a spool. When it arrived you have to press the bearings on the axles and then install them. I told a friend, from the size of those things, it looked like I was going monster truck racing. Nothing against a 9" but I kind of like to keep my GM cars all GM. Just personal preference ...

Trust me on this one too ... If you're still in high school just save your money and mod as you can. You have the rest of your life with your car so be patient, learn as you go, do the things you can on it, and most importantly, get to know some good car guys who have "been there done that" and learn from their experience. I'm 37 now and this is probably the 4th or 5th car I've built in my life. My plan is for this to be the last one; which is why I'm trying to put the best parts in that I can, as I can afford them, as to not to have to buy things a second time. Have a goal in mind and stick with it!
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Old 01-11-2007, 02:30 PM
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i agree... thats why i am taking my time.... how much can the 12 bolt handle neways... 500hp? 600hp?
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Old 01-11-2007, 02:53 PM
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The Ford 9" rear-end has 10% parasitic loss, whereas the GM 12-bolt has 7%. The Dana 60 only has 5%, but is about 40 lbs heaver than a 12-bolt. Personally, I like the Moser 12-bolt the best and there really isn’t any question about a 12-bolt holding-up down into the low 9 second range. Also, I’m not sure I could live with a Ford part on my Z28.

WD
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Old 01-11-2007, 03:45 PM
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my orgional plan was a 12 bolt but i just like to make sure... thx for clearifing
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Old 01-20-2007, 08:59 PM
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Might try moving up a couple classes by taking out some wt. Have been running J/SA the last couple years but may try H or maybe even G if this winters motor updates work as good on track as they've shown on the dyno. Still going to run the 305-150/254 combo.
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Old 01-20-2007, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mod313
Might try moving up a couple classes by taking out some wt. Have been running J/SA the last couple years but may try H or maybe even G if this winters motor updates work as good on track as they've shown on the dyno. Still going to run the 305-150/254 combo.
what track do u race at??
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Old 01-20-2007, 09:21 PM
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Maple Grove, Atco, E-town, Lebanon Valley and Epping. Epping is mainly All Stars (S/SS combo race), Camaro day and test sessions. The others I run NHRA division 1 events.
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Old 01-20-2007, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mod313
Maple Grove, Atco, E-town, Lebanon Valley and Epping. Epping is mainly All Stars (S/SS combo race), Camaro day and test sessions. The others I run NHRA division 1 events.
maybe i'll see u at NED one time
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:59 PM
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I'm going to compete in the NHRA Sportsman Series in the TOP ET class or the electronics class at Thompson Raceway Park. I don't have electronics except for t-brake and 2 step but the MODIFIED class just doesn't pay enough. Hell I may run both
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