I just dynoed my car @341.2 hp and 371.7 ft. lb at 4,000ft elevation. The dyno corrected to a mean average day and got 364.2 hp at the wheels. The reason I did this was I went to the track last weekend and the best I could manage was a 14.1, and thats with a near redlight .560 rt! I have an adjustable torque arm set at -2. At least I think so. The bottom of arm (where the mount nuts are) should be where you measure the angle, right? Everyone said they were having a hard time hooking up. No VHT or anything like that. An obvious fix would be some drag radials. Recommendations for a 16 wheel? This was my second time to the drags, so hopefully I will get better. Thanks for any help!

 

Not knowing your mods to the car its hard to make recommendations...we also need your trap speed...For the most part your ET is a function of traction (this will be harder with no VHT at your track)...your speed is a better judge of your horsepower...and reaction time has nothing to do with your ET..its just the time it takes you to get the car moving and to start the actual track timers. When the lights go green the timers dont start until you roll out of the staging beams.

Anyway, pinion angle is a great traction aide. You want to have your pinion pointing 2 degrees negative (down) in relation to the driveshaft (you can go as much as 4 degrees, but 2 is good for a street car)...there are many ways to set it, do a search on this topic...and Drag radials would be a great choice BFG, Nitto, and now MT all make em...I use 17" so I'm not up on the 16" sizes I think you want 255s..someone else will chime in here. But we really need to know what if any suspension mods you have, race weight of your car, shift points, and other mods before we can really help out...If this is just your second time at the drags just keep going, and practice, practice, practice. You may shave up to 1 second off by just getting yourself dialed into the car...Good luck and have fun...
--Alan

 

In addition to what ABA383 said, what were your 60' times like?

For a 16" rim try BFG 255/50-16 Comp TA Drag Radials. Run 16-18 psi and do a hot burnout.

 

To get the CORRECT angle for the torque arm you have to measure the angle of the driveshaft at the rear and then add the angle of the torque arm mount on the rear.


Like mine un adjusted was 5 and -5 and from there I would make the angle of the torque armmount -7 to get the desired angle of -2 (for A4 cars).

 

Your R/T has nothing to do with your E.T.

 

Sorry for the lack of info Info as follows:
60 ft = 2.38
1/8 mi = 9.32
1254' = 13.7
1/4 mi = 14.1
mph 102.97

As far as mods, the engine is bone stock, but I have SLP LTs going into a Corsa exhaust (Random hi flow cats and SLP y pipe); SLP cold air into a LS1 lid w/ a K+N. Suspension mods are BMR sway bars frt. and rear, BMR adjustable t.a., lower control arms. and of course the ever presen front strut tower brace.

I have a set of QA1 adjustable shocks (frt and rear) w/ springs for the front and a set of SLP sfc's (bolt in) that have not been installed yet. I suppose those might help out too if I ever get off my butt and put them on.

 

A pair of drag radials should get you below 2.0 60 ft. times, which will put you in the mid 13's

 

But be forewarned. Sticky tires can and generally will severly shorten the life span of your 99 model year clutch and the stock 10 bolt. Just don't want you to be shocked or mad if something breaks or fails.
But sticky tires are the only way to get the potential out of any set-up on the drag strip.