Problem found... need advice..
Problem found... need advice..
OK guys... <breif history> I got my car back thursday and it broke down again on friday... cam, lifters, gaskets etc.etc.. replaced, original problem was a broken lifter and push rod...
I took the car back to my mechanic yesterday and called him a few minutes ago... He told me that another push-rod has broken on the opposite side of the motor.. but he doesnt think the lifter was damaged ... Upon talking about what would cause it his response was " over reving" i said.. <i didnt take it over 3,500rpm because i wanted to break it in properly> and he said " 3,500 is way to high.. this isnt a race motor
and he says that i shouldnt rev over 3200 rpm?!?! WTF.. then he says... i have 1.6 rr's and a 1.5 cam.. i have crane gold 1.6 rr's and a cc 305.. do these not go together?!?!?! So i ask him.. after the break in what should my rpm range be? and he says... 1k-3400... now call me crazy but shouldnt this motor be much more capable of 3400 RPM??
Also.. since he had this entire motor apart and i paid him over 2 grand to fix it.. should any of this be covered under his 90 day 4,000 mile warrenty??? Need some input here..... he also tells me that if i want to build a race motor that it will be about 7-8 grand.. what do you guys make of this situation??? also.. if i have to pay for repairs on 1 pushrod.. how much $ would be resonable??? thanks guys
I took the car back to my mechanic yesterday and called him a few minutes ago... He told me that another push-rod has broken on the opposite side of the motor.. but he doesnt think the lifter was damaged ... Upon talking about what would cause it his response was " over reving" i said.. <i didnt take it over 3,500rpm because i wanted to break it in properly> and he said " 3,500 is way to high.. this isnt a race motor
and he says that i shouldnt rev over 3200 rpm?!?! WTF.. then he says... i have 1.6 rr's and a 1.5 cam.. i have crane gold 1.6 rr's and a cc 305.. do these not go together?!?!?! So i ask him.. after the break in what should my rpm range be? and he says... 1k-3400... now call me crazy but shouldnt this motor be much more capable of 3400 RPM??
Also.. since he had this entire motor apart and i paid him over 2 grand to fix it.. should any of this be covered under his 90 day 4,000 mile warrenty??? Need some input here..... he also tells me that if i want to build a race motor that it will be about 7-8 grand.. what do you guys make of this situation??? also.. if i have to pay for repairs on 1 pushrod.. how much $ would be resonable??? thanks guys
Run as far away from this supposed mechanic as possible.
I honestly think he might be totally and completely mentally handicapped. I doubt he could put together Leggos much less and engine
Hell, if my handywork holds together to 6500 RPM with an XE cam, anyone can do it 
As long as the valveprings are matched to the cam and the geometry is right you should be able to rev that engine to the cam's power peak. The bottom end should become the weak point before a hydraulic roller cam's valvetrain.... if it's setup properly.
1.6:1 ratio rockers arms work beautifully with a CC305. Cams are NOT ground for a specific rocker ratio, WTF
It sounds like he's set it up and has missed a very serious contact problem.
If what you say is true, his work is beyond sub-par and you are definitetly entitled to compensation. The guy's a flat out moron, IMO.
I honestly think he might be totally and completely mentally handicapped. I doubt he could put together Leggos much less and engine
Hell, if my handywork holds together to 6500 RPM with an XE cam, anyone can do it 
As long as the valveprings are matched to the cam and the geometry is right you should be able to rev that engine to the cam's power peak. The bottom end should become the weak point before a hydraulic roller cam's valvetrain.... if it's setup properly.
1.6:1 ratio rockers arms work beautifully with a CC305. Cams are NOT ground for a specific rocker ratio, WTF
It sounds like he's set it up and has missed a very serious contact problem.If what you say is true, his work is beyond sub-par and you are definitetly entitled to compensation. The guy's a flat out moron, IMO.
your mechanic is nothing more than an escaped circus monkey with a wrench.
i took my stock motor to 6700rpm. wtf is he on crack? Its no a deisel, it will rev to 6500 all day long JUST FINE. Guys are autoxing and banging rev limiters for hours on end.
how rockers and cam not work together?
how does a pushrod "break" it should bend, not break
i took my stock motor to 6700rpm. wtf is he on crack? Its no a deisel, it will rev to 6500 all day long JUST FINE. Guys are autoxing and banging rev limiters for hours on end.
how rockers and cam not work together?
how does a pushrod "break" it should bend, not break
You are getting hosed.
If he fixed the motor and it broke and you know you didn't abuse it he should be on the hook. However I would be very afraid to let him touch it again.
If he tries to weasil out he is an A hole and you may need to seek legal advice.
You should be able to rev the thing past 3500 rpm MY LORD YES!!
Good luck.
If he fixed the motor and it broke and you know you didn't abuse it he should be on the hook. However I would be very afraid to let him touch it again.
If he tries to weasil out he is an A hole and you may need to seek legal advice.
You should be able to rev the thing past 3500 rpm MY LORD YES!!
Good luck.
He's blowing smoke up your a$$. I rev my stock '94 with 175k miles up to redline, even hit the rev limiter every so often.
Keeping the rpms low during break-in is a good idea, however it has no relation to your pushrod breakage.
You have a problem with your cam/lifter/rocker combination, not your driving habits. Since only two of the 16 pushrods have broken, he may have over-tightened those rockers, and combined with the lifters pumping up, and rocker/spring bottoming out, can overload the pushrod.
Someone with more cam/lifter experience can tell you if your combination should work, or if you need different springs,etc.
Keeping the rpms low during break-in is a good idea, however it has no relation to your pushrod breakage.
You have a problem with your cam/lifter/rocker combination, not your driving habits. Since only two of the 16 pushrods have broken, he may have over-tightened those rockers, and combined with the lifters pumping up, and rocker/spring bottoming out, can overload the pushrod.
Someone with more cam/lifter experience can tell you if your combination should work, or if you need different springs,etc.
Originally posted by PGR
Since only two of the 16 pushrods have broken, he may have over-tightened those rockers, and combined with the lifters pumping up, and rocker/spring bottoming out, can overload the pushrod.
Since only two of the 16 pushrods have broken, he may have over-tightened those rockers, and combined with the lifters pumping up, and rocker/spring bottoming out, can overload the pushrod.
Something is seriously amiss there!
Originally posted by Buttercup
I was thinking the same thing, but overtightened rockers should be noticable in the way the car drives. Loss of vacuum, etc. He also broke the pushrods <3000 RPM
Something is seriously amiss there!
I was thinking the same thing, but overtightened rockers should be noticable in the way the car drives. Loss of vacuum, etc. He also broke the pushrods <3000 RPM
Something is seriously amiss there!
The mechanic seems to be a moron, and adjusting rockers is easy to screw up. Sounds like the most logical thing to begin with.
ok lets see here... 1.i didnt replace the springs. 2. he mentioned the rockers being very loose and that he didnt want to tighten them too much because they needed to be able to move....3. i talked to him 2 hrs ago and he said the push rod broke in half and they are trying to use a magnet to locate the other half... If it turns out " witch it looks like its going to" that this guy is a moron.. what steps can i take to retrieve my car and the money i have paid him to do basicaly nothing??? he said it should be done tomorrow and if he tries charging me i might end up kicking his *** right there in the shop... I trusted this guy because he is my old football coach from pop warner and he has been in the buisness for a long time... So that makes it a hard to deal with situation.... im so frikkin confused and pissed right now i dont know what to do...
You're running stock springs with a CC305 and 1.6 rockers???? If that's the case you've found your problem. The stock springs will coil bind in that application. They basically stack solid before the valve reaches maximum lift, so the cam is pushing agains a solid sleave of steel, not a spring at that point. Something has to give, which is almost always the pushrod. Even if the springs didn't bind the stock springs are not enough to control the valves with that cam. You need springs that are up to the job and new pushrods. I would follow the proper procedure for setting valve lash at that point (which can be found with a quick search here). Hopefully nothing else has been damaged (lifters, rocker arm studs, rocker arms, etc.)
If he's been "in the business" he should know this
Absolutely ridiculous, I'm pissed and it's not even my car
If he's been "in the business" he should know this
Absolutely ridiculous, I'm pissed and it's not even my car
Last edited by Buttercup; Jun 3, 2003 at 11:32 PM.
aarrgghh this ****in sucks like you guys dont even know... hopefully when i get it back tomorrow all will be ok... if not im going to go balistic and beat my mechanic to death... If i knew more about cars id do this myself.. but im mechanicly inclined and have no clue... i dont know if the springs are stock or not... when i bought the car the rr's and some kind of aftermarket cam were already in the car... when i did the cam swap " only because the other one was damaged" we couldnt figure out what kind of cam it was.. i tried everything from asking on here to taking it to different performance places.. in the end i went with the cc305 because many of you suggested it... i have had the car for about 9 months now and before 3 weeks ago when it ****ed up i was runnin it like normal... reving up to 5500rpm + with no problems... then all the sudden POOF...
im thinkin if they are stock springs wouldnt i have had this problem before??? So now here i sit.. not knowing wtf to do.. $2,400 bucks probably down the drain... a car that keeps screwin up.. and moron for a mechanic and just about out of funds... someone shoot me now.
im thinkin if they are stock springs wouldnt i have had this problem before??? So now here i sit.. not knowing wtf to do.. $2,400 bucks probably down the drain... a car that keeps screwin up.. and moron for a mechanic and just about out of funds... someone shoot me now.



or just for break in? The guy should cover the damage. I would also be looking for another mechanic.
That push rod bent,(broke) because he doesnt know how to adjust and set up a valve train.