ok. it always worked great for me, what is wrong with this though

or what steve said, using the a/c input

 

the DFI has a map...you put in the desired AFR and leave it alone......

If I did want to log it has the rpm etc in it...its just a real user friendly program. Plus I don't want a ricer gauge in my car

 

my maf-t-pro had a map as well, AFR tracking or something and i used this gauge with it and it worked great. sorry it was not what you wanted. if i had the money right now i would buy it off of you

 

They all say "not for leaded fuel"..... "leaded fuel will shorten life". AEM is using the sam Bosch sensor as everyone else. This is not an issue.

Is this the unit you bought:

Sure look like a 0-5V signal you could send to your DFI. Every writeup I looked at indicates it produces a signal for data logging.

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

 

Thats the one fred......yes it does have the signal to datalog but I was looking for more of a stand along type deal. And I don't know how to hook it to the DFI without the converter box.

 

I sent the guage to Autometer and had them install the black bezel. I had to buy an MSD tach adapter because the tach signal on my car would not work after I got above about 4000 rpm. Could be the difference in year models. Mine is a 97 OBD 2.

 

Nuts... I'm a 97 OBDII as well.

I tapped into the white tach line in the passenger kick panel (same place I tapped for my shift light as well... one clean crimp/solder/heatshrink joint ).

I'm hoping that tapping the tach line going FROM the pcm to the gauges would avoid messing with the signal the PCM uses as an input... we'll see (I'm gonna do some logging tomorrow to check I hooked it up right ).

 

Yep that is the line I tapped into. I tried the tach output from my MSD BTM. I also tried tapping into one of the injector wires. Every source I tried still required the MSD tach adaptor to work above 4000rpm. Its about $50 dollars on summit. I love the programmable light on the guage. It can be used for lean condition and rpm and a mixture of the two. I put two bungs in the exhaust so I could easily move the sensor from one bank to the other. Now that I know both banks run within .2 AFR of each other I just leave it in the left bank of the exhaust. I can log AFR, RPM, MAP, and Throttle Position all on the same graph so it makes tuning a breeze.

 

Ahhh... I don't use an MSD... just the PCM, a AC Delco Opti (MSD Pro Billet wouldn't rev past 5000 rpms :/) and a MSD coil. I have a LTCC ready to install as well, but I want to get everything tuned up right before I add that to the mix. I think I recall someone saying something about their shiftlight having the same issue with an MSD box and the tach line, but they used the same fix.


Yeah, I've been playing with the software/demos and really like that feature... I even considered putting a relay inline to the bulb and using it to power a buzzer/dinger for an audible signal.

I was considering using it as a "lugging" alarm. I can scanning for MAP/RPM combos that cause knock and use those parameters to trigger the "downshift" light... maybe even put the "skip shift" light in the relay loop as well (it doesn't do anything else now). With a large cam in 6th gear, lugging at under 2000 rpms is bad for knock.. but I still may be able to get it out.

Very cool idea. I welded the bung a few inches in front of the CAT, right after the y-pipe collector. I have an extra Bank 1 bung available (from relocating the O2 sensor bung from where AS&M put it... it barely fits with a Canton pan) but I could weld another bung into Bank 2 if I can't get the bank split worked out.