Oh, I forgot to say AAAARRRRRGH

 

You need to start a new thread in “LT1 Related Engine Tech”. Describe the vehicle - engine, trans, miles, etc. Describe all modifications to the engine. Describe the problem, starting from the first time it appeared, what you did to diagnose the problem, what you did in response to the diagnosis. Is the problem still the same, or has it evolved with the changes you made?

I know you mentioned some of the above already, but people generally don't come the this forum looking for people in need of help, They are only concerned about Scan9495.

 

It sounds like the cable is defective. It's too hard to troubleshoot your problem remotely otherwise.

 

Got it. Thanks for the time.

 

Is there just a tool or something I can buy cause I feel like I wouldn’t be able to do this 😂

 

I provided OBD-1 info in the same post that I brought your attention to Scan9495.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...5/#post7015936

Scanners have a range of capabilities.

Some can simply pull diagnostic codes out of the PCM. Others can retrieve data from the PCM on a real-time basis - sensor readings and operation parameters derived from the PCM program. Some scanners can store the data for review later - generally hand-heads have a somewhat limited duration for logging the data.. Yet others allow you to execute two way communications with the PCM - turn things like the coolant fans on and off, for example or reset codes. Then there are even more complex devices that, in addition to the PCM, can read ABS system codes, airbag codes, etc.

In general, the more capabilities the device has, the more expensive it is. Tools like the (genuine) OTC GM Tech-2 or sophisticated Snap-On models can cost thousands of $$$$. There is a Chinese clone of the Tech-2, the author of Scan9495 has tested it and found it to be a decent copy. I believe that clone is in the range of $300-350.

Scan9495 can do almost all of the above. Of course the next challenge is interpretation of the data it extracts. On this site, I'm about the only one who offered to do that, but I've limited my (free) services for reasons explained in my guide to interpreting data and making a data log:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...-guide-886891/

What exactly do you need? In your post I linked above, you were just asking about an OBD-1 “reader” that would work with your 1995 LT1’s 16-pin DLC.

 

I would buy this Actron CP9185 one right away before it is sold. These used ones are very scarce.You may need to buy a cable to go with it for the 16 pin cars Or buy a cloned Tech 2 from China. Neither of these will do any datalogging however.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/19565402561...Cclp%3A2047675
https://www.ebay.com/itm/35472674087...3ABFBMmvWIiPRh

OBD2 cable, if not supplied with scanner: .

 

Are there any known issues with Windows 11? I just picked up a "new" laptop with Windows 11. I installed and the app loads, but I'm not currently in a situation where I can try it. It doesn't seem to recognize a COM port, and the drop down is empty, but that may be because I'm not plugged into anything.

 

I doubt that there is a problem with Win 11. Most pc's do not have a serial port internal these days. For example, my 3 year old Dell has none and I only see the com port in my all-in-one printer (for the modem/fax features)

 

Hello. This is my first post to the forum, so I hope I'm following the correct protocol.

My son just bought a 1995 Camaro Z28, and we are trying to read powertrain diagnostic codes. We understand that this is an oddball year because the system is OBDI, but the car has an OBDII connector.

We installed Scan9495 ver 2.6.2 on a Windows 10 laptop and built a USB to OBD cable as described in the Scan9495 documentation. We soldered the green wire and the white wire (transmit and received) to pin 9 of the OBDII connector and the black wire (ground) to the row of holes in the center of the connector. We also installed the latest version of the FTDI drivers (CDM212364_Setup.exe), even though Windows 10 should do this automatically.

We turned the ignition to the run position and connected the OBDII connector to the port on the car. We then ran Scan9495. We clicked on "3: Connect/Reset" and heard a noise from the laptop, but the button did not turn green. When we clicked on connect/reset, the mode displayed "Connect/Res" for a few seconds, but then changed to "No Response by" and stayed there. No numbers appeared in any of the tabs. It appears that we are not able to connect to the ECU.

We also tried using Freescan and got similar results. The Freescan display showed that zero bytes were sent to the ECU and zero were received.

I think there is a problem with the connect between the OBD port and the ECU, but I wanted to make sure that we are using Scan9495 correctly before making that conclusion.

Any advice on how to troubleshoot an ECU connection problem would be gratefully received.

Has anyone else had luck using Scan9495 on a Windows10 laptop? I could not find a copy of Windows 7 that I would feel comfortable installing, so I went with Windows 10.

Thank you!

 

@GaryDoug

Help………

 

Should be no problem with Windows 10 (or 11). I use it on my desktop and notebook pc's. The most common failure is with the cable. I have stopped recommending making your own because the Chinese parts have become unreliable. Buy one from from here: https://obd2allinone.com/aldl.asp

 

Thank you for your reply. I also tried using this prefabricated cable for use with FreeScan. However, it didn't work with either FreeScan or Scan9495.

I think I will check the connections between the ECU and the Data Link connector next before I invest in another cable.

Is it possible to check for 5V between pins 5 and 9 on the 16 pin Data Link connector as a quick check that serial data is present?

 

The cable you linked on Amazon is not remotely the same as what you need. It isn't even for cars made in the US.
You can connect a voltmeter from pins 9 to 5 and should see about 1-4vdc fluctuating with the ignition on and nothing else connected. The PCM outputs some select data all the time.

 

I checked the voltage between pins 5 and 9, and I read about 4V, so I bought the cable you recommended. I really appreciate your software (and advice) being free, especially when someone is making a fortune on a GM OBDI cable ($60 + $30 tax and shipping)! Thanks again for your help.