The f-body only received one knock sensor. The LS1 calibration supports up to two knock sensors. However, only one can be used if desired.

 

It is a 7/16" drill bit and a 1/4" 18 NPT tap. Real simple and easy to do. I talked to a machine shop before doing it and where to put it. That is where we decided would be best. The cast is about 3/4" thick in that spot, and right between the bores.

The LS1 uses 2 knock sensors, one driver side and one passenger side, bank 1, bank 2. The block has the spot for them on both sides, unfortunatly there is no room on the driver side due to the motor mount size/location. The passenger side is no problem.

 

Hey would this timing cover work for the LS1 computer conversion?

An electric water pump would be a given and the hole for the cam sensor mount would have to be cut but at $23 and available new it might be worth checking out.

http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance...2818/10002/-1#

 

Good find, I am in the process of doing an EFI connection kit. Just bought an 03 LS1 computer and brand new LS2 coils. Now I just need the parts from them and I am repinning my own harness, should be less than $900 total.

Anyone think this thing will work? I could always buy it and send it back if need be?

 

Where do you mount the cam position sensor? That is a cool piece and would make a neat starting point if you were trying to roll your own from scratch. It won't work with the cam sensor that is provided in the kit unless you are willing to do a lot of modification and fabrication to make it work.

They don't come through often, but ironically, two of the real ones just went off of eBay today in the $120 shipped range. Luckily, I found the one I bought brand new back in 1997 and had it welded up

EDIT: that's not even for an LTx engine. It would work perfectly for one of the Gen1 conversions that use the Vortec distributor.

 

I added a picture of the late LT1 LT4 cover. It's clear the the LT1/LT4 cover is taller to accomodate the water pump drive gear. But that new ZZ4 cover is plastic, and I wonder if a thin filler plate could be fabricated to reach from the ZZ4 cover to the top of the LT1 timing chain opening. A EWP would be manditory plus I'm not sure how the EFI Connection cam sensor would work with the plastic cover. Maybe EFI could answer that. I might buy that ZZ4 cover just to see

 

You must use the 96-97 LT1 timing cover.

 

EFI connection is the place man.

Call Mike hes great and will get things set up for you. Its not to hard. Just need to repin the harness slightly and add some connectors. Also need a 96+ front timing cover. They sell the rest to do the conversion. 500 i think.

 

So what is the deal with this and the wiring changes for the injectors, I realize there is a difference in firing order, so do you just reverse the wires so when it is 'firing' #2 it is actually firing injector #3??? Or can you just change the injector assignment in the tuning software and not have to worry about changing wires? Is LS2edit capable of doing the changes needed(this is what my tuner uses)

I am interested in this kit as I am tired of replacing opti's, guess the wiring is my only real question... Were directions ever made up for the DIY wiring changes?

 

Mike has plastic and billet covers. The plastic is on the cheap and looks similair to the GMPP part but is actually for an LT based block.

The knock sensor, I would caution about running two and either do the LT4 style in the valley or leave the LT1 on the side of the block. The factory does this for a reason and if it worked for them it will work for you. You start to change the frequencies and amplitudes but thats not a big deal anyway because your going the LS computer. As long as you use the LS style knock sensor you should be golden. Its what I did, not sure if the LTx responds the same way.

97Whitez - you can switch injectors/coils to match the firing order of the motor or in HP tuners you can switch the firing/injection order on the PCM. Not sure if LS2 edit is capable, why is he using LS2 edit??? HPtuners is far better.

Wiring is kind of a bitch not over the top just a longer process to do it right and do it nice. There is no DIY and Mike and EFI will wire a harness but will not release a DIY because when he had one released people were complaining about it working right. Some ppl jsut dont understand that its not just a simple plug and play but that you have to do your own research.

At this point I've done 4 harness and since I haven't gotten anything back I am assuming they worked haha. Including an LS1/4L80E into a kids LT1 locally using a 2006 GTO harness, kind of a pain and should have kept it for my car due to its power but thats another story. I can give you some pointers along the way. IF you go search my name on here or LS1tech I have a writeup of doing and LS swap into a 93 some of it will be similair with minor changes. Such as lengthening cam signal, knock sensor wire and changing ends but most of the other stuff will work for you. If you got other questions PM me. Haven't checked this site in years just need some parts I've been looking for.

 

What does that mean? "LT4 style in the valley"???

 

A plastic timing cover has never been offered for the LT1 engine. SBC engines only.

I'm not yet convinced that HP Tuners is really changing the firing order through the calibration. I think that table may be improperly labeled. No one has confirmed this.

1994-1995 DIY Harness Kit of parts is EFI# 100-00500
1996-1997 DIY Harness Kit of parts is EFI# 100-00501

 

Anyone know if this system will pass the OBDII Emissions testing that's being done in a lot of states now?

I'd love to do this setup; as it would work perfectly; but I've got to pass the plug-in test.

 

I believe the first showstopper is that you cannot put your (LT1 car) VIN into the LS1 PCM.

 

Yea, that's what I'm worried about.

Does it just come up with an error or is it a completely different number combo, or why not I should ask? (Has anyone tried?)