Classic Engine Tech 1967 - 1981 Engine Related

BUILD UP what to do on a budget

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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 10:19 PM
  #61  
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goal is 450-maybe 500 N/A
want to put spray on it at 150 shot just incase but most likey will only be used 2 times a year at the track and on high octane race fuel.....

anything i shuold get for the bottom end. thought that stud kit was a good idea. what could possibly make it stronger. going to assemble whole motor with ARP fastiners.

can't wait for spring lol
Old Dec 5, 2006 | 08:20 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by 67speeda
goal is 450-maybe 500 N/A
want to put spray on it at 150 shot just incase but most likey will only be used 2 times a year at the track and on high octane race fuel.....

anything i shuold get for the bottom end. thought that stud kit was a good idea. what could possibly make it stronger. going to assemble whole motor with ARP fastiners.

can't wait for spring lol
What will make it stronger is higher quality parts. The stud kit won't hurt, but I would think that the factory 2-bolt is stronger than you need for that kind of power.

I don't think 500 N/A is going to be hard with those heads on a 383. Cam choice is crucial, call someone who can help you.

Jeremy
Old Dec 5, 2006 | 02:31 PM
  #63  
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okay great!

what are some new parts that i would need to order.
reuseing: intake, ignition, water pump, alt brackets and alt, headers, oil pan, oil pump, oil pump drive, timeing cover, timing chain, roller rockers

need new: bottom end, heads, lifters, cam, pushrods (going to need help on what size to get), gaskets, balancer, berings,

hopefully last question for a while:
can i reuse my old pistons? they are in great shape. would also save me some money.
Old Dec 5, 2006 | 03:33 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by 67speeda
okay great!

what are some new parts that i would need to order.
reuseing: intake, ignition, water pump, alt brackets and alt, headers, oil pan, oil pump, oil pump drive, timeing cover, timing chain, roller rockers

need new: bottom end, heads, lifters, cam, pushrods (going to need help on what size to get), gaskets, balancer, berings,

hopefully last question for a while:
can i reuse my old pistons? they are in great shape. would also save me some money.
New parts that will make it stronger? 4340 forged crank and rods. That cast steel eagle crank will work, as will the I-beam rods. At the power levels you are shooting for they will probably be fine.

You are going about this all wrong. You want to use a stud kit, I tell you that you don't need it because other stuff will break before the stud kit, so you ask what needs to be changed so that the 2-bolt mains are the weakest link and you need a stud kit.

It's like you are trying to find the way to spend the most money possible.

Your power goals are 650hp max on nitrous. So I would say get a scat 9000 series crank, some forged rods (scat or manley will work), and some JE/SRP pistons (ross, probe, diamond, etc. they all make a piston that is good enough). I have heard bad things about eagle so I no longer recommend them, though some people have had wonderful luck with them (1200hp on their forged crank )

As for re-using your pistons, I know absolutely nothing about them. Find out the dimensions of the piston, or the length of the rods you have in there. If you have 5.7" rods then you would probably need a custom rod 5.45" in length. If you have 6" rods in the motor then you can use stock 327 piston height with 5.7" rods and a 3.75" stroke at a 8.95" deck height.

So find out which rods you have in the motor and that will help you "guess".

Long story short for your power goals you do not need a terribly strong motor. With your budget you can't afford one anyway. The eagle kit will work fine, you may want to see about getting some "Hellfire" rings for the nitrous.

Hope that helps,

Jeremy
Old Dec 5, 2006 | 08:01 PM
  #65  
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thanks a lot

going to go with the kit that was posted earlier. will order that tonight and in a few months when i get some more money i will get the heads.
Old Dec 5, 2006 | 09:12 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by 67speeda
thanks a lot

going to go with the kit that was posted earlier. will order that tonight and in a few months when i get some more money i will get the heads.
I'd say get the heads first. If something bad happens and you can't afford the rotating assembly you can still build a pretty bad 327.
Old Dec 5, 2006 | 09:31 PM
  #67  
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i just dont want to have to rip it all apart again. then again it's not all that hard!

goal is to have it back on the road in april or may. going to get heads or bottom end now and will have enough for whatever i didn't get soon as long as my old quad sells. If not i will probly have the money before march....

wonder what kind of power the 327 could put out with those heads....hummm
Old Dec 5, 2006 | 09:50 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by 67speeda
i just dont want to have to rip it all apart again. then again it's not all that hard!

goal is to have it back on the road in april or may. going to get heads or bottom end now and will have enough for whatever i didn't get soon as long as my old quad sells. If not i will probly have the money before march....

wonder what kind of power the 327 could put out with those heads....hummm
About 450, as much as 500. You might be suprised.
Old Dec 6, 2006 | 04:59 PM
  #69  
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oh wow! so the 383 kit wouldn't really be worth the money then....

going to buy those heads then
Old Dec 6, 2006 | 05:17 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by 67speeda
oh wow! so the 383 kit wouldn't really be worth the money then....

going to buy those heads then
It's all about torque really. And the power curve. Peak power is good for bragging rights but that 383 is going to get you down the 1/4 mile faster with the same tranny and gears.

It's up to you really.
Old Dec 6, 2006 | 05:32 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by 67speeda
here is the plan as of right now. If you see any problems at all with this set up, let me know!

thank again for all the great help

bottom end

heads

no idea what to get for a cam.

already have a nice new set of aluminum roller rockers
MSD ignition system (already have)
Weland intake manifold (will edit once i can find it online)
"rattler" balancer
i am about to place the order for the 383. really excited
this is the combo i am going towards.
what would the compression ratio be? the heads have a 66cc combustion chamber and the pistons are +16.0cc

also the rotating assembly says it is only good for 87 and up motors. mine is not. would it still work?
Old Dec 6, 2006 | 05:52 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by 67speeda
i am about to place the order for the 383. really excited
this is the combo i am going towards.
what would the compression ratio be? the heads have a 66cc combustion chamber and the pistons are +16.0cc

also the rotating assembly says it is only good for 87 and up motors. mine is not. would it still work?
if you have a 2 piece rear main seal block, get the correct crank for a 2 prms, the 87 up blocks are 1 prms
Old Dec 6, 2006 | 07:35 PM
  #73  
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did a serch on casting number (3956618) and can't find out if it is a 2 or 1 peice. I guess it is a 2 piece. not at home so can't look at motor.

....great...can't find one in 2prms and pistons .040 over

may go with this kit

just sent him an email to see if it is a 2 or 1 PRMS

Last edited by User56898; Dec 6, 2006 at 08:30 PM.
Old Dec 6, 2006 | 09:03 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by 67speeda
did a serch on casting number (3956618) and can't find out if it is a 2 or 1 peice. I guess it is a 2 piece. not at home so can't look at motor.

....great...can't find one in 2prms and pistons .040 over

may go with this kit

just sent him an email to see if it is a 2 or 1 PRMS
3956618 is a 2 peice rear main block, it was used 68-69 as the block for the DZ 302, the 327 and the 350
Old Dec 6, 2006 | 09:04 PM
  #75  
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okay thanks alot

summit nor jegs sells a kit for this motor then



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