I would buy a new flexplate anyway. I always cracked mine but I finally got a heavy duty one and it has been fine. Well worth the money, IMO. I've heard of people rigging up a trans jack using a floor jack and some wood, but I've never tried it myself. Regardless of how you do it, you're going to have to get the car pretty high off the ground. Have you hooked everything up to the engine yet or is it only attached to the engine mounts?

 

We only have in there by the motor mounts. We had to bring back the cherry picker because we didn't own one and we rented one. If you were to put the tranny in while it is bolted onto the motor, how would you get it at that angle. I thought there was some sort of chain adjuster that you can use for that, but we didn't have one.

How much tranny fluid do we put into the torque converter?

Also my friend didn't label anything before he took it apart
So I have no idea how the linkage is going to go back on

His stock fuel pump had a metal fuel ine that went from the pump to the two barrel carb, can we just put a fitting into the pump and run a rubber hose instead

Thanks for all your help, I will definetly be asking plenty more questions.

 

You can get a plate that mounts to the intake manifold where the carburetor normally goes, and it will have three or four holes in it that you can use to hook onto the engine hoist. If you use the front-most hole you should have a steep enough angle to lower the engine and transmission in, or it will be close enough so that you can work it into place. You will do a lot of lowering, then pushing back, then lowering again, then pushing back again, but it is still easier than doing the engine and trans seperately, IMO.

As far as I know you just fill the torque converter up completely. You'll probably spill some when you slide it onto the trans, anyway.

As far as the shifter linkage goes, well, I'm not sure what to tell you. I guess you can try to mess with until you get it right, or at least close. Or you could get an aftermarket shifter that uses a cable...

Mine also had the metal fuel line, but I just cut it off near the top and ran a rubber line the rest of the way, although rubber all the way to the pump might be better. A braided stainless line would be ideal, but of course more money and trouble. If you're using an Edelbrock or Holley carb, don't forget a fuel filter of some sort.

 

Don't put fluid in the torque converter. It'll jsut pour out all over you when you flip it 90* to shove into the trans. Put a little ATF on the OUTTER part of the hub that gets shoved into the tranny so it slides right though the front tranny seal without tearing it up. That's all. The pump in the tranny will fill the converter almost instantaneously after you start the engine the first time.

Running long lengths of rubber tubing to the carb from the pump is dangerous. Imagine what would happen if the line slipped and the balancer or one of the fan belts caught it- instant fireball. Cut the stock hard line about 1 foot from the carb, install an inline fuel filter (ditch any stock filters that reside in the carb inlets) and attach it with short lengths of flexible line on either side between the factory hard line and the carb inlet. Or replace the entire length with flexible braided steel line, again, using an in-line fuel filter.

If you're running a QJet you'll need a fuel nipple that screws into the nose of the carb to take a flexible line. A typical brass fuel line adapter line you see in the bubble packs at the auto parts store is all that's required. The thread in the carb is called 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Thread- don't worry it's a lot bigger than 1/4 actual measurement) and then you just want either a 3/8" or 5/16" fuel nipple on the other side to take the flexible line, depending on the size fuel line you are running.