Ya ya, this should be in the car audio section, but I'm right in the middle of something and dunno wtf to do and need help ASAP

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=116236

Refer to that post for a lil background.... but here's the deal.

I have

This amp: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/carau....asp?sku=10721

These subs: http://www.sfxaudio.com/products/dis...p?ProdId=30276 (except the ones I have are 8ohm not 4ohm)

See, I was expecting to receive 4 ohm subs, but when I checked em out today after getting them, I realized they're 8 ohms. The amp is stable at 2 ohms in stereo mode, so here's what someone told me to do (assuming the subs were 4 ohms).

To wire each sub individually to the front and rear channels. IE: Wire the first sub bridged to the front channel on the amp, and wire the second sub bridged to the rear channel on the amp. Assuming the subs were 4 ohms, that was fine. But now that I realize they're 8 ohms, wtf do I do now?!

Please help, I'm in the middle of doing this and need to know what to do!

EDIT:
A friend of mine on AIM told me to do this... but it doesn't make much sense to me if someone could simplify it:

Him: just straight bridged, 4 channel amp right? so you should have it setup so that two channels can be bridged and then the other two channels can be bridged
Him: so bridge one to the first sub
Him: bridge the other to the second sub
Him: and then just run your right preout to the first sets left jack, and your left preout to the second sets left jack
Him: if that makes any sens4

 

well this is useless:
yeah if they were 4 ohms it wulda worked. ummm CAll BEST buy or sursuit city maybe?

 

Wire the subs in parrallel and get 4 ohms. You wont get the full power, but thats the best you'll do. Then bridge the amp. That should be covered in the manual.

Id suggest having a friend that knows what hes doing come over too. That way you dont go through 200 fuses.

Good luck, I'm out for the day

 

I don't think there is any way to get two 8 ohm subs to run 2 ohms through a 4-channel amp. 4 ohms is the best you can do.

The only exception is if the subs have dual voice coils... but I don't think PG 15" have DVCs.

 

While kyle is here-

Kyle,
I got a JBL 800 watt max amp (400watt RMS) for my truck and i'm looking into a deck and speakers. What do u reccomend- has to be from best buy though, thats the only catch. and total has to be around $350 or less. Only rock music. Dont care for subs.

 

Grr, stupid ****, if only he coulda sent me some god damn 4 ohm subs like they SHOULDA been....

 

why in the hell didn't you just buy a 2 channel amp?

 

Is it a 4-channel amp? ie: 4x100 watts RPM? JBL must have released a new product line, I'm only aware of a 40x4, 80x2, 300x1, 600x1, and 1200x1 amp... hmmm...

Anyhow... for a quality HU that will be reliable (and really that's the biggest difference I see between head units) I wouldn't look at anything but Alpine. If your amp is going to be powering your speakers then don't worry at all about the headunit's power output... just worry about the preout voltage. 4 volts and up would be nice.

For speakers, I can't stress this enough when I say. Go to your local car audio stores with a couple of your favorite CDs and listen to them on every speaker there that is within your price range. How good or bad a speaker sounds is just about the most subjective topic I've ever encountered in my life. I've seen people who prefer 50 dollar JBLs to 2000 dollar Rainbow seperate components. It all comes down to personal preference. The only thing I've found that changes with brand is quality and sound characteristics. For that I've found:

Infinity has very harsh vocals that make them fatiguing to listen to for very long and tends to make things sound very mechanical
Polk has very give mid-range imaging and IF your car's speaker enclosures are well-adapted to producing mid-bass, these are your best bet. But their high-range imaging sucks.
MB Quart tends to have the best speakers in all regards except low-frequency... unless you're installing their 6x9s they don't sound good without a sub.

The list goes on and all of it is very subjective. Just go to your local store and see what sounds best to YOU. Then I'd recommend searching the 'net for what you like... you'll likely save 30-40% or so.

Is this going in your Camaro or truck? If it's going in your truck, the Silverado doors are pretty good at letting your full-range speakers produce lower frequencies. F-bodies on the other hand suck at getting said frequencies out of aftermarket full-range speakers. A sub is a definite must. The upside to f-bodies is that subs in the rear hatch t-top area are abou 2-3 dB more efficient per watt than most other car's environments.

 

4/2/1 channel amps are becoming more and more common these days because of their versatility. Spend just a bit more on this amp now to have that feature and he can use this amp to power some full-range speakers later or who knows what else.

Even if it was a natural 2 channel amp or even a single channel amp, he'd still be stuck because he has two 8-ohm subs with single voice coils. The problem is the subs, not the amp.

 

cool, i'll check it out.
Its for the truck. camaro is on a diet

 

Yup -- it should be in car audio!


Craig

 

You do know he has a 4-channel amp correct? I replied to your PM GrdLockV6.

 

It's a 4/2/1 channel amp... he can run it mono (bridged) and then run them both to achieve a 4 ohm load.

 

I don't see that amp running at 4 ohms into a single channel. The website does say "stereo, bridged mono or tri-way output" but I think they just mean you can bridge two channels together. Thereby lossing stereo seperation......AKA mono. 4/3/2 channel operation.


But on a side note. I bet you could run it in 2 channel mode and the bridge together the already bridged two channels to make one powerful channel...... but you would have to run at 8 ohms...... but I bet it might work.....

 

Nobody said you had to use all 4 channels

4 ohms running off one channel bridged will produce sound. It wont be running at 'fullpower' due to the increaded load though.

How'd the install go?