fiberglass or wood
01-26-2003, 11:23 AM
#2
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 2,667
It depends on what you're talking about... For sub enclosures... Fiberglass is better. Weaker?? uhm whoever told you that is smoking some great stuff. Wood is a TON easier to work with than fiberglass, but if fiberglass is done correctly it will make a much better enclosure, and it can make a LOT more complex shapes than wood can.
The issue with fiberglass is the time and cost. It typically costs more and a wood/glue box. Also the time, each layer of fiberglass need to cure fully before you put another coat on, and figure you're going to make the main portion of the box atleast 3/4" thick, (same thickness as most MDF boxes) it can take quite a bit of time, and that's not even including the sanding for finishing the box.
I want to ake a fiberglass rear-enclosure for my car, but as of lately I've got other things I need to spend my time/$ on. Thus I am just running a SubThump Box currently.
The issue with fiberglass is the time and cost. It typically costs more and a wood/glue box. Also the time, each layer of fiberglass need to cure fully before you put another coat on, and figure you're going to make the main portion of the box atleast 3/4" thick, (same thickness as most MDF boxes) it can take quite a bit of time, and that's not even including the sanding for finishing the box.
I want to ake a fiberglass rear-enclosure for my car, but as of lately I've got other things I need to spend my time/$ on. Thus I am just running a SubThump Box currently.
01-26-2003, 12:35 PM
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Missouri
Posts: 595
Fiberglass is definitely stronger.
To build thickness quicker, I use "roving" They make a pretty large cloth that lays down about 1/8" thick. I usually do a layer of roving then a layer of mat. The roving is like fiberglass cloth and is woven where the mat is non-oriented fibers. Comes out VERY strong and super dead.
Wood is much easier to work with.
Ryan
To build thickness quicker, I use "roving" They make a pretty large cloth that lays down about 1/8" thick. I usually do a layer of roving then a layer of mat. The roving is like fiberglass cloth and is woven where the mat is non-oriented fibers. Comes out VERY strong and super dead.
Wood is much easier to work with.
Ryan
01-26-2003, 01:12 PM
#4
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,119
Originally posted by 97FormulaWS-6
Also the time, each layer of fiberglass need to cure fully before you put another coat on, and figure you're going to make the main portion of the box atleast 3/4" thick
Also the time, each layer of fiberglass need to cure fully before you put another coat on, and figure you're going to make the main portion of the box atleast 3/4" thick
And fiberglass is only stronger in the curves. When fiberglass is flat, it is weak and needs to re-enforced with something. The biggest advantage is that it can form into each and every curve of your trunk...... if that's where your doing it...... Also, if you are going to finish it with fiberglass, and you sand the S#IT out of it, and use bondo, and sand the S#IT out of it again....... then wet sand the S#IT out of it some more........ lol....... it looks bada$$. But you have to work for it...... and then work some more..... lol yeah it's not easy.
02-01-2003, 04:24 AM
#7
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: sebewaing, mi
Posts: 1,309
let me clerify a few things....
fiberglass is extremely strong!!! period.....epoxy is damn near the strongest glue out there and that's what fiberglass is about.
plus it doesn't need oxygen to cure its a chemical reation. so... you don't have to wait for each layer to dry before laying the next layer. you can play with the amount of hardner you use to get quick curing times. most of the time mine gels up in 10-15 minutes.
second of all, wood is easiest to work with. it also provides better damping.
when the above pep's said fiberglass is weak, they were inaccurate.....it resonates easily because it is so hard and rigid.
so a combination of wood and glass seems to be best.
generally you don't have to glass the same thickness as wood. usually slightly less...it ALL depends on box size and application.
a box for a 15" sub getting 4000 watts will need 1"+ fiberglass with wood bracing.
a box for a 10" sub sealed running like 500watts is fine with 3/8-1/2" glass with the use of sound damping material (aka dynamat)
wood generally provides the best sound.
fiberglass can provide a stunning install.
fiberglass is also a problem solver for sqeezing every inch of airspace in curved areas!
to each their own.
fiberglass is extremely strong!!! period.....epoxy is damn near the strongest glue out there and that's what fiberglass is about.
plus it doesn't need oxygen to cure its a chemical reation. so... you don't have to wait for each layer to dry before laying the next layer. you can play with the amount of hardner you use to get quick curing times. most of the time mine gels up in 10-15 minutes.
second of all, wood is easiest to work with. it also provides better damping.
when the above pep's said fiberglass is weak, they were inaccurate.....it resonates easily because it is so hard and rigid.
so a combination of wood and glass seems to be best.
generally you don't have to glass the same thickness as wood. usually slightly less...it ALL depends on box size and application.
a box for a 15" sub getting 4000 watts will need 1"+ fiberglass with wood bracing.
a box for a 10" sub sealed running like 500watts is fine with 3/8-1/2" glass with the use of sound damping material (aka dynamat)
wood generally provides the best sound.
fiberglass can provide a stunning install.
fiberglass is also a problem solver for sqeezing every inch of airspace in curved areas!
to each their own.
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