Im getting my GW upper arms and LG lower a-arms installed, and the alignment is taking a long time. You need to take the car off the alignment rack, lift it on another rack, undo everything, turn in/out the rod ends, reattach, put back on the alignment rack, repeat...

Anyway, Im requesting 0 toe, +5.0 caster and -1.5 camber. Currently he's working down from a +7 caster. Are settings this high that bad for roadracing/autocrossing? I know Porsche is around +7 to +8 caster. Would it be bad on an F-body? Would the car still be streetable?

Also the GW arms are a little weird. The upperball joint holes were not correct and we had to file them wider (tried 2 different ball joints, they matched and neither fit), and the grease fittings on the Del-A-Lum bushings are in such a place that you need to remove the arm to grease them. Thats less than helpful...

Thanks in advance.

--Kevin

 

I just had my upper GW/lower LG a arms installed. I feel a great difference in mine. But it too HOURS to align. You had to get the car on the alignment rack, take a reading, then lower it, move it to another rack to lift it, undo the lower a-arm, adjust, lock it, reattach and torque it, then switch back to the alignment rack, hook it all up, take a reading... etc. So I have the most expensive alignment in history. THey claim that my K Member is twisted a bit. They couldn't get the sides to match exactly. Im running a +7* caster which is a bit high, and -1.5 camber, 0 toe.

The steering is no longer mush/undefined feeling. I can feel the road/tires dig in on turns, and it feels like I might be oversteering a bit now that the front grabs so well (the tires were cold so I dont know this for sure).

The GW Uppers put their greased fittings facing the body of the car, so you need to remove them to grease them. Kind of strange if you ask me...

--Kevin