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Advice on Koni DA's, please...

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Old Nov 16, 2002 | 03:06 PM
  #1  
JimMueller's Avatar
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From: Casselberry FL USA
Advice on Koni DA's, please...

I'm going to bite the bullet and install the Koni DA's which have been sitting on a shelf for a few years. They saw ~30K miles of street duty on my 95 T/A, and have been idle since 09/98.

This is what I've got on the car:

- Addco 1.25" front sway bar w/ urethane bushings
- Addco 1" rear sway bar w/ urethane bushings
- Hotchkis non-adjustable panhard rod w/ urethane bushings
- Hotchkis non-adjustable boxed LCA's w/ urethane bushings
- stock springs with 70K miles
- stock shocks with 70K miles

The car is a daily driver, and I rarely visit the strip nor autox reguarly. I still have the stock bars/LCA's/Rod with their stock bushings.

What should I set the bump & rebound to on the shocks? I never tweaked them on the T/A since they were installed by an IMSA pit tech, but I'd like to know what's involved in tweaking the settings once installed. Can I access the dials without pulling off the wheels and/or shocks?

Would going back to the stock rear sway bar with stock bushings be better than the Addco unit I have now? I do plan on putting different springs on, but since the rear driver shock is making some noise, I figure I'll take care of it now.

TIA!


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1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - Navy Blue Metallic 6-speed
Best 60'/ET/MPH: 1.95/12.33/115.06, before LS6 intake.
SAE DynoJet: 402HP, 378TQ [366/344 before intake].
Power Mods: FTRA, FRA, FRA2, K&N filter, Whisper Lid, TB Bypass, LS6 intake manifold, CNC cylinder Heads 2.02/1.57, Comp Cams 218/226 527/535 112, NGK TR55's @ .050, Grotyohann headers/Y-Pipe/CarSound cats, Flowtech 3" cutout, base Ed Wright tuning, SPEC Stage II clutch.
Other Mods: 265/40/17 Bridgestone Pole Position S-03's, Enkei Win wheels, Hotchkis PHR/STB/LCA's, Addco 32/25mm F/R swaybars, Powerslot rotors, Hawk Plus brake pads, Stainless brake lines.
In storage: 4 Koni DA shocks, waiting for me to pick an adj. coilover spring setup
Old Nov 17, 2002 | 02:27 AM
  #2  
Dr.Mudge's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,148
From: Bay Area, CA
You can reach the bump, but not really the rebound without taking the load off the suspension (front), and/or removing the front tires.

In the rear, you just have to pull the carpet up again to get to the rebound, bump is in the same spot as the fronts, on the bottom of the shock.

For stock springs, I'd probably start out with zero settings on both bump and rebound, and just see how it goes. I have bigger springs so I am not really sure what would be best, maybe 1/2 positions up for rebound? But I guess you'll find out

Adjusting your Koni Shocks
http://www.alanchavis.com/reference/koni.htm
Old Nov 20, 2002 | 08:10 AM
  #3  
AZ94FORMULA's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 86
From: Phoenix, AZ
While the rear end of our cars is easy to work on, the front is a little more difficult and time consuming. So I suggest that you replace your springs and anything else in the front end all at once, so you don't have to take it all apart again later. I say this because I took my front end apart 3 times.

FYI I sold my Koni SA shocks because I got sick and tired of trying to adjust them.

Kurt
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