Wilson

Well, I have a lowered car with Eibach's Pro springs and when I tried to get my car aligned to the recommend street settings:

Caster:
+4/+4
Camber:
-.8/-.8
Toe:
0

The alignment shop can get one side of the caster to 4.86 and the other side to 3.9x. If I purchase new adjustable A-arms would this fix this problem or do I need new upper control arms? I read that global west has increase caster for their upper control arms. Anyone else having this problem from a pro-kit drop?

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93 Z28 w/ ZR28Kit & Fx-5 Suspension, 17" SS rims, LS1 brakes w/braided lines, 1LE Swaybars, slotted rotors, Custom Chip by ME, pullies, ASM 52mm, CC 1.6 non-aligning 7/16 rockers, ported heads, Mezeire waterpump,SLP headers w/2100* PBM coating, 24#SVO injectors, Metco afpr w/fuel rail gage,OverMade4You wire looms & custom wires ,LT4 Valve cover,etc....To many to list
Check out my homepage at:
My Website
***NEED TO INSTALL***
LT4 Hotcam,TransGo shiftkit, vette fuel rail covers

auto-Xer

Those arms (GW) should do it. Im about to get mine aligned (stock front w/ G2 coilovers) and I think I can get +4 - +4.5. I think you need to loosen everything up and the K member moves to even the two sides out (from what I understand, I haven't done it yet). If you want to spend some $$$ G2 makes an A-Arm that is all rodended, not sure the limits of adjustability but Im sure its better than stock.

--Kevin

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'96 Z-28
78k Miles
Toyo RA1 275/45Z17, SLP Coated Headers, SLP Clutch and Flywheel, G2 Coilovers (Bilstein and Eibach), LS1 Driveshaft, G2 PowerPulley, G2 CAI, B&M Ripper, G2 Pedal Covers, TB Airfoil, Borla 3" catback, G2 Panhard Rod (adj. w/ rodends), G2 Subframe Connectors, G2 Enginebay Brace (4 point), G2 Swaybars, Poly Trans Mount, Driver & Passenger Sparco Evo2 Seats, Powerslot Rotors w/ PFC Pads, Stainless Steel Brake lines, ACES SureShift2 Seq. Shift Light, Spohn Torque arm, LCA(rod/poly) and relocation bracket, McEwen White Gauge Faces.
On order: Autopower 'race' rollbar, Spacro 5 point harness, McCord Power Plate cutout, LG Spoiler and stripe, and ScanMasterLT1
Just a few parts away from my ZR-28

Dave B

Wilson , I have Eibach prokits and the GW upper control arms . I run lots of negative camber for the track but also 5 degrees of caster . The car tracks beautifully and is very stable at speed .

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'97 M6 Kenny Brown SFCs, Koni SA , Eibach Prokits ,LG adjustable PHB , 1LE LCAs , GW upper control arms, K&N FIPK , custom bent Hurst LS1 brakes and Torsen .

Wilson

Dave- When installing the GW upper control arms did you have to align them a certain way for the alignment? Or does the aligment shop just do the alignment the normal way?

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93 Z28 w/ ZR28Kit & Fx-5 Suspension, 17" SS rims, LS1 brakes w/braided lines, 1LE Swaybars, slotted rotors, Custom Chip by ME, pullies, ASM 52mm, CC 1.6 non-aligning 7/16 rockers, ported heads, Mezeire waterpump,SLP headers w/2100* PBM coating, 24#SVO injectors, Metco afpr w/fuel rail gage,OverMade4You wire looms & custom wires ,LT4 Valve cover,etc....To many to list
Check out my homepage at:
My Website
***NEED TO INSTALL***
LT4 Hotcam,TransGo shiftkit

V6Bob

Do you really think the difference between +3.9 on both sides and +4.0 is worth the trouble and expense?

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2000 Firebird convert, chameleon/tan, M5, Y87, TCS
KBDDs, BMR STB and Panhard, 245/50-16 GSCs

auto-Xer

I think he's right to worry a bit because something is wrong if they are that different. Maybe not dangerous, butI would want to know why they are that different. I just got mine aligned and I got about -1.5 camber each and +3.6 L +3.8 R caster. I was told that my a arm bushing is shot and that it wont hold a steady alignment. He gets it aligned, then its not... Time for new a arms myself it looks like. That bushing is a PITA it replace. Better to just get a new arm

--Kevin

Dave B

Wilson , there is an obvious L and R side but they fit easily and you use N alignment technique.


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'97 M6 Kenny Brown SFCs, Koni SA , Eibach Prokits ,LG adjustable PHB , 1LE LCAs , GW upper control arms, K&N FIPK , custom bent Hurst LS1 brakes and Torsen .