Alignment specs..max camber
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Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 30
Alignment specs..max camber
Am setting the car up for American Iron series (nasa).
Car already has ground control coil overs so is slightly lowered and stiff front springs and toyo tires means I probably don't need really crazy camber.
How much negative camber can you get??
What is a good racing baseline in these cars??
Also anyone make a brake duct kit or is it construct your own??
Looking forward to stomping some mustangs!!
Car already has ground control coil overs so is slightly lowered and stiff front springs and toyo tires means I probably don't need really crazy camber.
How much negative camber can you get??
What is a good racing baseline in these cars??
Also anyone make a brake duct kit or is it construct your own??
Looking forward to stomping some mustangs!!
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,148
From: Bay Area, CA
Max it out and see what happens, unless its very low I dont think you will see -2º, without slotting the camber adjustment. If you know Alan Blaine I would talk to him about camber setup, he doesn't have his car all that lowered and suggested that I also raise mine back up, he says he is near stock ride height and that looks about right.
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Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 482
From: Mukilteo, WA
Congrats on racing AI!
With stock front control arms, you can't get too much negative camber without lowering to your bumpstops. Max it out. If you have an extra $200 or so, get some GW upper A-arms and dial in about -2 degrees. Tune from there.
You can see some ideas for brake ducts on my page in the sig and if you search here there are few more decent examples.
Good luck.
With stock front control arms, you can't get too much negative camber without lowering to your bumpstops. Max it out. If you have an extra $200 or so, get some GW upper A-arms and dial in about -2 degrees. Tune from there.
You can see some ideas for brake ducts on my page in the sig and if you search here there are few more decent examples.
Good luck.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 86
From: Phoenix, AZ
I'm using -2 degrees and I'm still wearing the outer edge of the tire a little more than the inside edge. In my opinion, camber is based on tire wear and driver preference.
I have some pictures of my home made front brake ducts. Let me know if you want to see them. Brake ducts are easy, it's just a little trial and error, especially when installed with jack stands.
You can buy all the parts you'll need from these places:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/
http://www.colemanracing.com/
Kurt
I have some pictures of my home made front brake ducts. Let me know if you want to see them. Brake ducts are easy, it's just a little trial and error, especially when installed with jack stands.
You can buy all the parts you'll need from these places:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/
http://www.colemanracing.com/
Kurt
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Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 30
Having Bryan Dobson racing in VA finish up my cage so may just have them do ducts at same time.
Car is lowered do to GC coilovers and koni's.
Although it seemes to ride almost to low.
Guy took off the ABS also (don't ask what he must have been thinking) so it locks up fairly easy on the toyo spec tires.
I am curious what it weighs as everything is out of car (no airbags or any interior part left in at all).
Said he pulled out 200+lbs so I am guessing car is 3200lbs about now.
Feels decently quick.
Car is lowered do to GC coilovers and koni's.
Although it seemes to ride almost to low.
Guy took off the ABS also (don't ask what he must have been thinking) so it locks up fairly easy on the toyo spec tires.
I am curious what it weighs as everything is out of car (no airbags or any interior part left in at all).
Said he pulled out 200+lbs so I am guessing car is 3200lbs about now.
Feels decently quick.
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