I've done a search on camber and it appears that most 4 gens are fixed camber. Past threads indicate a GW set up. I'm a bit concerned... a little while ago I did a 180 on the Fwy Off/On ramp and back onto the Fwy. The frame got tweaked a little but I had everything pulled straight then added SFCs and welded extra reinforcements.

I am cautious about fixed camber settings as I don't believe my front is 100%... maybe 92%. So, I would like some flexibility. Does that relegate me to the BMW adjustable? That is not an easy adjustment to remove and keep tweeking... you'd have to raise the car on the rack, hope it settles, then re-align. PHEW!!! That just won't be accurate. Is there an adjustable that can be corrected while on the alignment rack under the car?

You guys are the handling pros I'd like to get your advice.

Why am I motivated... one of the vendors at work is flaunting his Masarati Coupe. He's got 390 BHP and an active suspension. I've got more torque but 365 BHP. I'll invite him for lunch in the canyon, my torque should dominate there... but I'd like to get -1.5 Neg Camber on the front.

 

The camber is not fixed. With G2 springs I am running -1.4 - 1.6 negative camber.

See the bottom of this link for settings.

http://www.socal-fbodies.org/resource/susp4a.html

 

I just got an alignment done on my stock suspension and height 99 Z28. The most they were able to get was -0.3 camber, 4.1 pos caster, with 0 toe.

Nominal factory setting was +0.4 camber, high 4.x pos caster, 0 toe.

When I arrived at the shop, after about 3 years of driving and never checking the alignment, my camber was at 0 and +0.3, with caster of 4.9 and 4.5 with 0 toe.

If your car is a lowered, you'll probably be able to get some more neg camber...

 

Looking at the stock A-arm, I can't find any adjustable setting. Also, after checking out the Lower A-arm, there aren't any eccentric bolts or adjustments. How do you adjust a stock front suspension (w/ Hotchkis front coil springs)? I'd like to get -1.5 camber... currently at -0.2.

I'll check out the G2 site, but the springs that you have shouldn't adjust the camber other than lower the vehicle. Correct?

 

The horizontal bolt/bushing on the Lower control arm is in a slot. You just loosen up the bolt and slide back/forth. HOWEVER if you do it yourself it can throw toe so far out of whack that it will be nearly undriveable.

 

Wild... You are correct. Lowering springs just allow you get a little more negative camber than with stock springs.

 

A little or alot, depending how you look at it. Some people also elongate the slot as well.

 

I'll check out the slot... I'm anticipating the toe to really go out so it will be aligned immediately. Any good pictures around of the slot and/or procedure? Or is it pretty straight forward once the bolt is loosened.

 

It is strait forward. HOWEVER if you max out camber it WILL mess the toe way up. I get my car aligned at the local Ford dealership. Only about 3 blocks away. And that was too far. I am talking tire screech here.

I also think that if someone is getting less than .5-.4 stock or less than neg 1.5 lowered then the shop is not aligning with MAX neg camber or their measurements are off.
Once you have the camber and castor maxed out the only thing you would want to mess with is toe. I have had my car at zero toe all year. I think I am going to go with a little toe out next year.

 

Thanks!!! Is this adjustment something that should be done with the wheels on the ground (under load) or at full droop (elevated tire)?

 

To adjust camber the wheels will have to be off the ground. Pull it All the way out. Castor I did not mess with so I am not sure.
To set toe use a 2ft piece of angle iron. Lay it on the lugs with wheel off. Tie a string with a plump bob on both ends. Make sure the angle iron is against the hub. Then measure from the plumb bob at the front and back of the hub. This will give you your toe measurement.

You will want Jackstand under the control arms so that the suspension is "loaded"

Hope that helps. If you autocross I would recommend finding a shop and work out a deal with a multi visit discount of some kind.

 

I lowered the car 1.7" all the way around and didn't have that bad of an issue, but toe was definately off, camber went to -1.6º with the new springs.

 

If camber is set and then the car is lowered toe will be off some. However try to re-set camber and it will throw toe way off.

 

That's the tough part. To get the Camber set perfectly will require lifting and lowering the car until it is just right. Then the toe can be set... after all that, the car will settle and adjust the camber and toe again (to a lesser degree).

 

Definately. Which is one reason why you would be best served by getting a local shop talked into giving multi visit discounts. I am going to try doing this next spring.
Then have my alignment checked before big events (div,tour,pro)

I have heard of alignments "going away" by alot. Although I have not heard of this on an F bod.