Then which pump would you recommend for a street application because i really need to know it would help me out alot guys thanks

 

You can get whatever belt drive pump you want, they make relief valves that either screw into the valvecover or the suction side of the pump to limit vacuum to whatever you want.



David

 

Alright well that answers that question now i just need to make it fit in there with my turbo piping

 

There is no such thing as too much vacuum, most can't get there anyways. You just have to take into account different clearances and such when you do.

Bret

 

To START WITH vacuum pumps shouldn't be run on the street if you like your engine......Especially with over 6/7" vacuum where they do some good.
There are some that do but it is an unwise move.
If ya had a dry sump that is a little different. Now ya are talking big bucks just to run a vacuum pump.

 

There are factory cars equipped with crankcase evac pumps(electric) are they not?(I may be wrong here) SO why cant you run them on a street/strip car that sees 5000 miles a year with the vacuum limited to 10 inches or less. Do tell knower of all that builds nothing and reads everything.


David

 

Moroso makes a NICE 3 vane setup, Reher and Morrison sells a complete kit. You have to fab a mounting bracket to get it on the block.

Here it is mounted on OutlawZ's engine, he made a NICE bracket.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...INSTALL005.jpg


David

 

Care to explain why??

http://www.gzmotorsports.com/street-pump-kits.html

 

What might be some of those cars?
Ford has an electric pump but it is for accessories.


Limit the miles to create conversation 'fore long it will be on a trailer queen. 10' don't gain ya but about 8FWHP on a full race engine. Nobody said anything about a street/strip car I SAID STREET,GOT IT
If ya had EVER been to a dyno and made/seen a few pulls ya would KNOW that, Masser motor builder.


Well let see. I seem to remember an 11.60 you read yourself into building----cough cough,ughhhhh

 

They will sell ya anything. Personally I don't care if Ya run two of them it's your engine. Is it just for bragging just to say ya got one?????If ya put the vacuum over 10/12 inches where ya gain a little HP from it ya suck all the splash oiling down and it don't get to where it needs to get. Like I said a dry sump is different as most everything is pressure fed. 12' only gains ya about 10-12FWHP on a 427" SBC that ran in the 7's with hose. I personally saw this at BES in Ohio.

 

They will sell ya anything. Personally I don't care if Ya run two of them it's your engine. Is it just for bragging just to say ya got one?????If ya put the vacuum over 10/12 inches where ya gain a little HP from it ya suck all the splash oiling down and it don't get to where it needs to get. Like I said a dry sump is different as most everything is pressure fed. 12" only gains ya about 10-12FWHP on a 427" SBC that ran in the 7's with hose. I personally saw this at BES's dyno in Ohio.

 

That is sweet, I think I'll copy it

 

so with everything roller.....what would really need splash oiling?

Wrist pins
valves springs
rocker tips

But that stuff will still get oil corect?
If I do this Will it last a season with the stuff needed splash oiling not getting it?

I really need this thing to be dependable......I'm already obligated to the people that have helped put it together so far.....So a few events I HAVE to make it to

 

Me I would go for bore finish,piston fit ,ring fit,and a set of this EXPENSIVE rings from total seal.
There is no problem with putting one on a low mileage car,ya could always flip the belt off,I am saying what it is likely to do if ya ran it all the time on the street.

Unless ya got it above 12" it don't do much for HP. Ya need to be in the 18/22" range,

 

This is a race only car I am talking about...mostly brackets and will be raced 2-3 times per week.

Not street driven at all