Please advise.
Not a gearhead, so to me the options of short block or crate were the only ones provided by my mech.
Just putting in new bearings seems too simple in light of the fact that there might be further damage to the internals.
Of course, I don't know that, nor would anyone else unless the motor was completely torn down, which in itself would cost a bunch.
Anyway, I guess with a brand new short block I shouldn't have to worry about the integrity of the internals.
So I'd have to pay to have the engine removed and dissected, measured, etc. and parts replaced where needed. So probably would cost about the same as buyinng the short block and having it prepared and installed. I don't know. But its too late now.
Just putting in new bearings seems too simple in light of the fact that there might be further damage to the internals.
Of course, I don't know that, nor would anyone else unless the motor was completely torn down, which in itself would cost a bunch.
Anyway, I guess with a brand new short block I shouldn't have to worry about the integrity of the internals.
So I'd have to pay to have the engine removed and dissected, measured, etc. and parts replaced where needed. So probably would cost about the same as buyinng the short block and having it prepared and installed. I don't know. But its too late now.
I've had this happen on engines with even fewer miles on them. It usually ends up being contamination blocking one or more of the oil passages. As you said "**** happens".
I also was surprised that your mech. said you needed a short block with out disassembling the engine. If it is only the rod bearing, all you would need is a crank and rods.
I also was surprised that your mech. said you needed a short block with out disassembling the engine. If it is only the rod bearing, all you would need is a crank and rods.
No. Not keeping the old (8K miles) short block. I have no place to store it and have no reason to believe I'd ever use it.
Sometimes use just have to trust (unless you have very good evidence not to).
Even if I suspected something for sure, I'd hesitate to make too big of an issue out of it. Chances are that it would no doubt be more hassle than worth.
The burden of proof would most certainly be mine and in order to arrive at the proof I'd have to have the entire engine analyzed by a professional/expert which in itself woould cost a bundle, plus atty's fees, etc.
No. When it comes to cars, you either do it all yourself or put your trust in those who do it for a living. And hope for the best.JMHO
Sometimes use just have to trust (unless you have very good evidence not to).
Even if I suspected something for sure, I'd hesitate to make too big of an issue out of it. Chances are that it would no doubt be more hassle than worth.
The burden of proof would most certainly be mine and in order to arrive at the proof I'd have to have the entire engine analyzed by a professional/expert which in itself woould cost a bundle, plus atty's fees, etc.
No. When it comes to cars, you either do it all yourself or put your trust in those who do it for a living. And hope for the best.JMHO
If it was my engine, I would want to know what happened to it. I would be extremley hesitant to entrust that investigation to the "mechanic" you describe. Have the engine removed from the shop, and taken to a shop with a good reputation, have it torn down and find out what happened. Your guy doesn't seem to have done any more than pull the pan and say "no sludge"....
I doubt that it would be all that expensive to have it torn down. And, in doing so, you could probably salvage many of the parts that were not damaged. A reputable shop should be able to quote you a "firm" price to tear it down and record the condition, and suggest the cause of failure. I think you may be so disgusted with it that you are writing off the whole engine, because it is "contaminated" just like you perceive the oil cooler to be.
Does anyone here have an idea of what the cost would be to tear it down and determine what happened? Could anyone recommend a reputable shop? I think it would be a shame to just close your eyes and make believe nothing happened.
Please do not take this as a "criticism"... it is offered in the hope that you can find out what happened, determine whether you want further dealings with the guy who did the past work, and possibly minimize the cost of the repairs.
I doubt that it would be all that expensive to have it torn down. And, in doing so, you could probably salvage many of the parts that were not damaged. A reputable shop should be able to quote you a "firm" price to tear it down and record the condition, and suggest the cause of failure. I think you may be so disgusted with it that you are writing off the whole engine, because it is "contaminated" just like you perceive the oil cooler to be.
Does anyone here have an idea of what the cost would be to tear it down and determine what happened? Could anyone recommend a reputable shop? I think it would be a shame to just close your eyes and make believe nothing happened.
Please do not take this as a "criticism"... it is offered in the hope that you can find out what happened, determine whether you want further dealings with the guy who did the past work, and possibly minimize the cost of the repairs.
For that matter, if you were closer I'd offer to do it for you, maybe in exchange for keeping the parts when I was done. You'd have peace of mind in knowing what happened and I'd get a good core 
You could sit and watch me pull it appart, doesn't take that long to pull appart a short block. Usually once it's in "short block" state it would only take a few minutes worth of work to find what went wrong. Really, I'm surprised that your mechanic didn't do it just to see what's up for his own edification.
I'd venture that that is also the reason why you have people questioning the honesty of your mechanic. Pretty easy to go "up, shot bearings, you need a new short block"
I know of a tranny shop that used to keep a few boxes of "spare parts," a sad collection of burnt up and broken parts to show people after "well, you need a complete rebuild, that will pretty much be $1800-2300 depending on what hard parts need to be replaced."
I guess I'm not a very trusting soul...

You could sit and watch me pull it appart, doesn't take that long to pull appart a short block. Usually once it's in "short block" state it would only take a few minutes worth of work to find what went wrong. Really, I'm surprised that your mechanic didn't do it just to see what's up for his own edification.
I'd venture that that is also the reason why you have people questioning the honesty of your mechanic. Pretty easy to go "up, shot bearings, you need a new short block"
I know of a tranny shop that used to keep a few boxes of "spare parts," a sad collection of burnt up and broken parts to show people after "well, you need a complete rebuild, that will pretty much be $1800-2300 depending on what hard parts need to be replaced."
I guess I'm not a very trusting soul...
Seriously... It doesn't take a rocket scientist of a mechanic to figure out what went wrong w/ an SBC. I had never taken apart an engine before when I threw a rod. I pulled the motor by myself, took it apart and figured out what had happened w/ just common sense. Your mechaninc is either stupid or full of it if he can't tell you what went wrong.
Jason
Jason
One thing comes to mind. When cleaning the deck surfaces before reinstalling the heads, did you/they use the little handy "3M" abrasive disks on a drill or air grinder? Those things have been know to wreak havoc on engines. If I remember correctly, GM sent out a bulletin to their techs so they wouldn't use the disks any more. They work great but the abrasives will wear out an engine in no time.
I am thinking your engine was damaged somehow when the engine work was done 400 miles earlier. Just too much of a coincedence.
The mechanic most definatelty should have at least pulled the pan to look at the motor before replacing the shortblock.
I agree with you all 100%.
Unfortunately, I had but 2 options. (1) demand that they do an analysis of the failure and claim responsibility if warranted.
(2) Take their word for it, that it "just happened" and was not in any way their fault and get the thing fixed.
If I selected number 1, I'd have pi$$ed them off
and I'd have wound up looking for another "reputable mech". So I opted for number 2 hoping that even if it was their fault they'd be more careful with the rebuild.
Accidents do happen. But when it comes to taking a big hit cash wise, don't count on the vendors or mechs taking the hit. JMHO
Unfortunately, I had but 2 options. (1) demand that they do an analysis of the failure and claim responsibility if warranted.
(2) Take their word for it, that it "just happened" and was not in any way their fault and get the thing fixed.
If I selected number 1, I'd have pi$$ed them off
and I'd have wound up looking for another "reputable mech". So I opted for number 2 hoping that even if it was their fault they'd be more careful with the rebuild.
Accidents do happen. But when it comes to taking a big hit cash wise, don't count on the vendors or mechs taking the hit. JMHO
Picked it up last nite. Mech. said to run it between 1700-3000 RPM for 500 miles and take it back in for oil change and check out.
Still don't know what happened. Just that there
was "lots of bearing material in the oil pan".
Any other suggestions on how to best break it in?
So now I have a car with 8k on it and 0 miles on a new 4-bolt short block. And all for only $4700 bucks. Such a deal.
Still don't know what happened. Just that there
was "lots of bearing material in the oil pan".
Any other suggestions on how to best break it in?
So now I have a car with 8k on it and 0 miles on a new 4-bolt short block. And all for only $4700 bucks. Such a deal.
Bubba,
I live across the river from you. My friends and I have done business with a few of the local machine shops and I could probably provide you with some contact information if you were still interested in having the old block torn down.
I may also be able to find a buyer for your old block.
Would you be willing tell me what shop has been doing your repairs? Just curious.
PM or email me.
I live across the river from you. My friends and I have done business with a few of the local machine shops and I could probably provide you with some contact information if you were still interested in having the old block torn down.
I may also be able to find a buyer for your old block.
Would you be willing tell me what shop has been doing your repairs? Just curious.
PM or email me.
Too late. I just told them to keep the block.
Mech called Portland Eng. Rebuilders and they had no use for it. And I have no room for it.
I've had all my mech. work done at Majhor Murray Ltd. in Portland.
They work on a lot of perf and collector type cars. Supposedly have a very good rep.
One never knows. Had my car dynoed at Tom's Performance on your side of the river when I first bought it new in 97.
Thanks anyway.
Mech called Portland Eng. Rebuilders and they had no use for it. And I have no room for it.
I've had all my mech. work done at Majhor Murray Ltd. in Portland.
They work on a lot of perf and collector type cars. Supposedly have a very good rep.
One never knows. Had my car dynoed at Tom's Performance on your side of the river when I first bought it new in 97.
Thanks anyway.
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I have a free engine stand at the moment. 