I have a Tubular K-member and a Canton Oil Pan for LT1's and when I dropped my 383 in, the oil pan is hitting the Rack and pinion. I don't want to space the motor higher or cut and weld the Rack lower so does anyone know of a good aftermarket oil pan I could use that would clear??? This is a 500+ hp motor without nitrous so I don't want to use the stock pan. Any opinions or expeirence with this problem is appreiciated.

Thanks

 

Stock LT1 pan is fine.... I run one on an 800HP nitrous engine, friend of mine ran one on an 1,125HP blown 383. Stock oil pump (bluprinted, white spring, tack welded pickup) works well too. Make sure you have a windage tray.

Any particular reason you put this on Advanced Tech, rather than on Suspension, Chassis and Brakes, or LT1/LT4 Engine Tech?

 

What kind of motor mounts are you using? I'm using the Canton road race pan and although it's very close down there (stock K-member/rack and pinion) it does clear. I'm using energy suspension motor and transmission mounts.

 

It depends on which Canton you go with (there's an updated F-Body specific one) and the aftermarket k-member you go with (I helped BMR with the LT1 design and there is a specific k-member available for the older Canton oil pan).

 

Its a Pro Fab K-member w/ Enery Sus. Poly mounts. I will probably have to use the stock pan but my oil pump already has the pickup tacked to it and the pickup was just for that pan. I'm pulling the motor back out anyway so I need this issue resolved. Thanks for the help and any more info......


Injuneer- I put it here because I felt it was a question that only those who have built f-bodys for drag/road racing would know. Some questions I post in the other sections get the " I think you should do this" or "I've heard about someone doing this" responses. I'm a mechanic and grew up in my dad's shop so I have more expierence than most, but I thought this section was appropriate. I'll try to pick the section better next time.

 

Do you have the transmission in its mount yet? If not the clearance will improve when you do.



David

 

I don't, but its hitting before the motor completely rests on the mounts. I have the motor resting on 2" blocks of wood for now. The front of the pan is just alot deeper than the stock one.

 

On our car I moved the bottom bracket down and made a spacer for the top. Works fine and I don't think bump steer will be an issue.

 

I like that idea, sounds doable. I want to keep my pretty oil pan too, lol, but now I gotta grind off my nice powdercoat on my k-member. Thanks

 

The pretty gold can't be matched easily but the black powder coat can be feathered down and matched with shiny paint.
I took a piece of aluminum round stock 3-1/2' OD to match the radius of the bracket and drilled a 1/2" hole in it and made it 3/8" thick.Ya can get the lower mounts off with CAREFUL grinding and bolt everything together with the spacer and re weld the lower bracket. Wa la automatic pan clearance--- after some work.