I was looking into stroker motors and wanted to know what are all th different sizes i would be able to go with an LT1. 383,396, 377 and so on. what kind of power can i see from a stroker to the wheels. I want to have a daliy driver tha will run in the low 11's.

 

Everyone has a different idea of a "daily driver". If yours is like mine low 11's is not gonna happen NA. It would take some serious weight reduction, a fairly radical cam, big stall (if it's an A4), etc. to get those times. Since my definition of a "daily driver" includes a full interior, AC, power windows, power seats, etc. as well as excellent low and midrange torque, for me, it would take a power adder.

I have no idea from your post of what you mean by a "daily driver". But if you are building a street car that will see occasional track duty (which "daily driver" implies) it makes more sense to phrase the question a bit differently. Rather than asking what it will take to go low 11's, you might first define a budget for the project and ask: what are the most effective mods for a street strip car that are within my price range?

A stroker per se just adds cubic inches. If you did this and kept everything else the same (cr, cam, heads, etc.) you would be very dissapointed. The additional ci would net a torque increase more or less proportional to the increase in displacement. The hp increase would be fairly small. For example: a 350 to 383 is ~10% displacement increase. In and of itself it would net ~10% more torque and 3-5% more hp. The hp gains from a stroker are more dependent on the other changes almost everyone makes at the same time. Unless you are talking power adder it's the heads, cam, increased CR, and stronger rotating assembly (allowing higher revs) that provides most of the power increase.

So with that as a prelude, the answer (ta da). A 383 is a 0.030" overbore with a 3.75" crank and a 396 uses a 3.875" crank. Since they cost more or less them same, a 396 is probably the best choice. Going larger than 396 has a number of problems and is not at all cost effective. Again, the hp depnds on how much $$$ you want to spend. But where to spend it (for an NA setup) is the heads. Extremely high end bottom end parts are not needed.

What is your budget and are you talking NA or power adder?

Rich Krause

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'95 Z-28 383 with Vortech, nitrous, etc.
"1FASTZ28"

 

Lets not forget Grandpa Jordon Musser! 10.8@130 NA on I believe a 402 as it last stood, this was however a solid roller and AFR head setup.

Your horsepower is going to come from the heads/cam selection, and the proper programming. Cubes can support power, but the power has to be made somewhere, and that is by ingesting and delivering the air/fuel which is essentially coming from the heads/cam.

If you've got an A4 your going to need a serious beefup, trans cooler, yada yada.
You'll also need some good injectors, I see people with strokers and #24 and #30 pound injectors which seems ridiculous, you'll be looking at 36/42# at the minimum IMO if you hope to put out serious numbers, I'd go for the 42#s.

I haven't heard anything larger than a 422 in an LT1 (very expensive), I'd plan on nothing larger than a 396 to start with, in terms of overall cost and ease.

 

Since your post is "LT1" specific, and general in nature, it should be posted on "LT1 Tech". You might want to use the "search" feature, since tech questions of this type, including "cost" issues are discussed regularly.

Moving to "LT1 Tech".



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Fred
94 Formula A3+1: 381/TH400+OD/N2O

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11.513@115.59 on motor; 11.162@127.67, 1.643 60' on a 125-shot. Going with a 275-shot this year