I guess so thanx guys.

 

I see that you just sold your Street Twin on the classified section of this board. What are you going to replace it with? BTW, in case you hadn't noticed, this same topic has been under discussion on the Forced Induction part of the forum:

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=127086

This guy starting this thread probably would have been happy to buy just your steel flywheel if you are only changing to aluminum.

 

I was just going to point him at that thread…

For all the “I don’t know, I haven’t weighed one” responses here I’ll reprint part of what I wrote there:

Some weights for you guys:
Stock (well worn) LT1 assembly that I just ran across in my basement:
Everything + hardware: 41lb 11oz
Flywheel: 20lb 5oz
Clutch disk: 4lb 5oz
Pressure plate: 14lb 7oz

Weighed on a different scale (but accurate as far as I remember):
Street twin, aluminum: 38.5lb
Street twin, steel 51lb

 

bunker, your measurements are WAY off on the weight of the ST.

shipping weight of the steel ST is 63lbs and that includes the master cylinder.

 

Thanx guys, I'm just gonna buy a new alluminum version instead of putting things together, the alluminum version disks look a bit different, so I'd rather not put things together as far as measurements, you're probalby right, my scale is weird, but hmm.. so the alluminum version ST full assembly weighs less then the stock steel full assembly? wow.

 

You realize that now you are giving up the inertia stored in that heavy steel flywheel at launch?

Somehow, I think you are totally over reacting to what is not a lot of HP on a dyno, and probably closer to "0" on the street.

 

Yep, there's a reason cars have flywheels. If I were buying another ST, I'd save the $200 and get the steel flywheel. Better for drag racing and street driving. Road racing would be different.

Rich Krause

 

Dyno numbers are very important to me, I'd rather not sacrifice, I mean I'd rather not go through all the trouble but something inside tells me to do it, the thing will be heavy enough to move I'm sure, even though like you guys said the extra weight is needed for a clutch with not dampened disks, but I hope it'll be drivable enough, I mean look at my setup, I think its very drivable

 

Why for road racing???

I have an Al flywheel with a Cengerforce DF... Needless to say it holds up my 600rwhp car... I am not fond of the dragstrip as I say its worth crap to me... When you race on the street you need all the power you can have over 120mph.

 

Hehe I'm not fond of the drag strip either, aparently people say you don't loose any power on the street, what they mean is what you loose you gain from inertia, but whatever.

 

I think the common thought with that is that in a road race situation and other higher rpm racing where you are never at a stop, you can benefit more from the higher hp of the lighter flywheel . The revs are usually always up quite a bit so "stored energy" is not as much of a concern(except for in corners).

Although it would seem that a heavier one would help comming out of corners though , on some road courses. And some would argue that a drag car could just use a light flywheel, and leave at any rpm they want (High Rpm). Although there still probably would not be as much "stored energy".

Anyways, I'm not sure which is best, because of course it depends on the combination, but I think the interatia/ "stored energy" for street /drag - vs- . the higher hp from less weight in road racing or circle track, is what some argue regarding heavy and light flywheels.

In a drag racing , or street situation, the intertia / "stored energy" I think is the benefit. A harder launch off the line at the strip , and less chance of bogging when leaving the from a dead stop on the street. ( Although in cars with more tourque , i think this is less of/ or not a problem when leaving a light or stop sign.)


It seems like a lot of people DON'T recomend light flywheels for street cars, unless they have good TQ, but like them for racing where there is no stopping, and the engine is at higher rpm for longer periods or time (like circle track) so as to benefit from the higher hp.

 

i have seen alot of posts refering the ST as an on or off clutch. now on or of meansto me that it is going to desrtoy my STOCK rear. now i do plan on going to the track a few times a year and having some fun on the highway once and a while but i dont beat my car everyday. so my questions is will the ST kill my rear and other parts with jsut DD????

oo and Al or steel for me??? sugestions??

 

A light flywheel is of great benefit in road racing because you're downshifting in addition to upshifting. Not many folks rev-match when dragracing, so the time that it'd take for the revs to drop with a heavy flywheel isn't important. When in the twisties, though, you need to be able to drop or gain revs as quickly as possible when shifting, as harsh shifts and heavy cornering don't go well together.

camaroz28_97, I wouldn't say that a ST is a switch - it's just a bit touchy. What will kill your rear end is the fact that it's a solid-hub design, with no springs to damp the forces generated when the clutch engages. This "minor" detail went unnoticed by me until I killed my trans doing clutch drops at the strip.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Eric Bryant
[B]A light flywheel is of great benefit in road racing because you're downshifting in addition to upshifting.


how much of a defference are we talking here?? is it really enough to spend the extra cash??? i dont street race that much.

 

Not enough for me to spend the extra money, and my Impala's primary purpose is attacking twisties.

Road racing is not the same as street racing We're talking about running a car around a closed road course.