Hey guys,

I know this might come off wierd, but i've got a spare intake with injector bosses to repostion the fuel rails off and out of the way.

I plan on hacking the intake about a quarter inch above where the runner casting stops and weld a plate to the top.

From there I'm going to bolt my eaton, I've got a M90 right now but this is looking so good I believe i'm going to buy up a 112 and go from there. This is more of a grins project to start off with. I know one guy who mounted a M90 above the valve cover of his 305 TPI and the car made 4.5 pounds at 4,000rpm. Hes now got two eatons mounted above each valve cover and sees 10 psi at around 4,000rpm.

The M112 and M90 are nearly identical demension wize.

You can see the guy with the twin eatons at www.thirdgen.org power adder board.

Theres anothor guy with a twin eaton at www.twohighpsi.com



Anyway back to the subject, what is the best way to cut a manifold like this? Would a machine shop have the ability to do this or should I just try it on a band saw?

 

I was thinking of using a similar idea, however all the fab work is pretty irritating to say the least (but obviously someone has now done it) If you're going for the "wow, that's neat!" factor, then sure, but otherwise, you wont get as much power in the long run or bang/buck to an assembled kit.

I'd say machine shop, mainly because you need to KNOW it's straight and level (Which you could do, but it'd be a pain) and I'd rather not sit there for a week with a saw and a bottle of oil for the blades (you might need a few)

But I can bet you'd get a lot of people that would like to see pics of the final product!

 

I was origonally just going to mount it above the drivers side vavle cover but that posed a few problems.

1. Hood clearance was super tight

2. I could only use a M90 because of the input output positions

3. It would be difficult to get a belt to that side.


I've measured everything and it looks like I'll have around 1 inch above the blower. if i make a two piece manifold like described above

 

If you have any circle race tracks around you should be able to find a stock car engine shop to cut it for you. In certain classes like street stock, you have to run a stock intake manifold. so they cut the manifold open, port and polish the insides then weld them back together. they do a real good job of this. when I used to be a mechanic on street stocks i wanted to get ours done however, the price was $500.00 back in the 80's. But thats cutting, port/polish and welded back together.

kingslam

 

I'm trying to keep cost down on this project.

I saw a Hogan intake that would be perfect for $2800 but you know

I would consider paying $250-$300 for haveing the intake modified.


Wouldn't be great if I can get this going? These Eatons are dirt cheap now a good Ford (Better performing than GM) M90 can be had for aournd $200 and I've seen the lightning M112 go for $400-$800. Both Eatons are internally lubricated and are built to last over 100k miles.

by the way theres a heads/cam 302 LTD over on the corral board that runs 11.50's on a single eaton M90 out of an early ford

 

Interesting idea.

$200-$300 might be a little cheap. Considering that you need to cut the top off of the intake, make sure it's flat, make a plate to mount the intake to the blower etc....... yeah I could do this, but where are you going to put the blower? is it going to fit under the hood and cowel of a f-body?

What is this going in?

Bret

 

Its going 93 firebird. I'm useing a M90 and I plan on mounting it just like a 03 cobra or lightning.

It does measure out to fit under stock hood.

 

Cut the bulk off with the saw, mill the mount surface flat, tap for your bolts (I'd even machine for an o'ring) and machine the plate. It's nothing too difficult for any machinist.

Good luck.

 

Thanks,

Last night I sawed the top off the stock intake. it looks good, Its perfectly level front and backs left and right.

I did however make a few bo boos! I've got two 1/8-5/64 gaps where i didn't cut straight.

I do plan on doing this right so I will be takeing the intake to a machine shop to remill it flat. I can leave it alone and just weld it together or i can mill it and bolt it together.

I did make some rough measurements, I've gained at the most 3 inches at the nose of the blower and 3.75 at the very back which is good news because it does apear to fit under the stock hood. If not oh well cowl hoods look cool!


Wouldn't this be awesome if I can get a blower going for $500 M90 or a little over $1000 for a m112.

 

Have that thing milled flat. It will help the adapter plate seal much better.

Bret

 

Thanks,

I will, I plan on makeing one trip to the machine shop. I'm going to have my injector bosses welded in and maybe AN fittings welded to the fuel rail.

Its looking good.

What do you guys think?

 

Very interesting concept. I'd like to see some pics of the cut open manifold...if you have them available...

 

Hey Rooster... We’ve run into each other on another board and in email… It's Mark, my brother is Alex with the LTD with the 302 (actually .030" over, 306) + M90... he's hoping to see 10's this year, I just welded some monkey bars in it a couple of weeks ago in some effort to make it legal for the times it’s running. The back doors and seat are still functional ;-) It won’t be running on the dinky street radials anymore either, hopefully no more getting crossed up through the 1/8 mile lights…

I’m glad to see that you’re going with the ‘wouldn’t it be cool’ idea. It’s probably too late but did you consider converting a single plane intake to FI and setting up a mount for the blower? I would think that would be less work then modifying an LT1 intake to work and in the long run have more satisfactory results.

Are you looking at mounting it pulley forward or backward? Do you have an M90 or M112?

BTW, the cases are substantially different. There is no way an M112 will fit in my brother’s car. Well, I could make it fit and look trick but my brother isn’t willing to let me cut up his car enough to do it. Anyway, the point is that the actual case dimensions on the M112 are substantially larger. That’s why we took the grab an M90, cut it up, port it, modify it and spin it to the moon approach (well that and the blower ended up free, he sold the ducting/intercooler for the same amount that he bought them + the blower). We’re trying to snag some epoxy coated rotors for it now, which should up efficiency enough to give about a pound more boost. Even with no more mods to the blower then where it is now, it’s got the airflow to run 10’s if we could keep the belt from slipping. On a good pass it leaves as much belt rubber on the inner fender as the tires leave on the quarters…

 

I've got a M90 right now,

Actually by eatons website it says that the M112 is the same width, its actually shorter and only about 5cm longer. You guys probally couldn't use a M112 on your brothers car mainly because where the intake to the blower is situated.

I'm serously considering a M112, I'm concerned the M90 will not be enough to make a modest amount of boost. If anyone wants the M90 let me know!

I've already got the intake modified, I just need to have the surface milled to insure a good tight seal. There would be no differnce in my situation to mount a M90 or M112,

The pulley will grab the belt off the alternator with either a idler or tensioner mounted above the PS pump.

The blower will sit right on top of the intake (3/8 inch plate 6061 AL) with a total height 3-3.75 inches taller than stock. I will not be using a intercooler and plan to run a elbow or cobra head from the back of the blower to a GM LT1 throttle body.

With the throttle body before the blower I hope that the whole setup will be relitively quiet. The most significant modification I will have to make is having new injector bosses installed in the intake at a different angle to clear the bottom of the blower.

 

I should note that tuning this thing not be a problem, I do plan on useing a vortec FMU because the car is speed density.

IF all goes well in the future I may switch to a crank trigger and 749 pcm.