can i run eagle h-beam 6"rods in an lt1 without having to machine the block? i've heard that i have to have the block specialy cut for an h-beam rod. i could run an I-beam but i figured why i was in there id just do it right and make sure nothing happened. thanks a lot guys
Rob

 

I've never heard of anyone having to machine the block to fit an H-beam....but maybe I'm wrong.

 

Only if the 6" is being used in a stroker, in that case, the block will have to be clearanced.

 

so as long as its a stock crank there shouldnt be a problem? do ya'll think its a good idea to run 6" h-beams?

 

To make an intelligent response to your specific situation would depend on knowing a lot more about what you have in mind for the complete combo. In general, the Eagle rod seems to be a decent low price forged rod. I have a political problem with buying Chinese stuff, but I know I am in the minority on that score.

Rich Krause

 

im not sure what all you want to know but heres what im doing- stock crank, +.030, some type of rod,je forged dished piston (9.5:1) port and polished heads w/pro mag 1.6 rr's, cc .600 lift springs, cc306,comp 'r lifters,as&m headers and other bolt on stuff,getting a procharger mid summer (d1-sc i think) thats about it other than drive train things.i would go with a standard I-beam but i figured for the money why not go with an H-beam thats stronger as long as i dont have to notch the block. i WILL be using my stock crank, just balanced and cleaned up a bit. thanks guys
Rob

 

We all might be surprised at the origin of some of the raw material in parts we buy. We receive material certifications on hundreds of lots of steel, stainless, aluminum, titanium, etc. which we purchase. This is truly a global economy; material comes from many surprising countries.

I believe you are refering to purchasing forgings or even machined parts from China, where the labor cost is less than minimal, and the politics, etc. are questionable.

Part of me, the ex-military guy and the small manufacturer, agrees totally; we compete with the Chinese for business to supply parts to some of the most well-known American companies. Sometimes the "Quality-Price-Delivery Triangle" (choose any two!) tilts our way and sometimes it doesn't.

The engineer/consumer part of me says buy the best quality product which meets your needs for the best price.

I'm not trying to start a political bruhaha here, Rich. Just my highly-opinionated $.02.

 

94 Drop - I'd be careful throwing the blower on a 2 bolt bottom. It's good for about 450-470 HP Max. Sounds like you'll be turning up the boost. Also, the 306 may not be the best blower cam. You may want something with a higher LSA.

 

what does "two bolt" refer to?

 

2-bolt mains. I didn't see it mentioned above about a 4-bolt or splaying the caps. It's recommend it for the 450+ HP he's looking for.

 

the blower wont be goin on untill late summer, im just going ahead and building it the way i want to for the blower. i also plan on running about 6 to 8 #'s so im not really boosting it much. i have a friend who's running one at 14#'s making 530rwhp on a 2 bolt. maybe he's lucky i dont know thats just what i was goin by. thanks for the info though. oh yeah as for the cc306, i already bought it so its atleast goin in for awhile to see how i like it.hell i may change my mind about the blower by the time i try and do it anyways thanks again
Rob

 

A lot of guys are really saying great things about the 306! Can't do it in Cali so you'll have to let us know how it is.

 

dont worry as soon as im done im sure i'll be posting all the details. well that is if it runs good i plan on taking a ton of pics from the motor removal down to gear install also. im running the cc306 now cause im not sure when i'll get the money for the charger so im just gonna juice it every once in awhile for now.