Electromotive SDI on but now code 42.. Injuneer??
Electromotive SDI on but now code 42.. Injuneer??
Car starts and seems to run very well but I am showing a code 42. Is this something I just have to live with on the SDI or can I check something?? I widened up the crank trigger gap then reset the DTC's but it came right back.
Am I missing something?? And will it hurt my car to drive it like this?
Ryan
Am I missing something?? And will it hurt my car to drive it like this?
Ryan
DTC 42 = IC grounded.
Do you have the white wire from the PCM in the yellow connector you added as part of the SDI, so the PCM is providing timing signal to the SDI controller? Or are you trying to run off the 3 timing dials in the SDI controller.
When I ran off the PCM timing signal, there were never any codes set, except an occasional DTC 16 when it took more than 2 crank revs at startup to synthesize the low res signal.
I think if you pull the white wire off to run on the SDI timing signal, you will get DTC 42. If that's the cause, it won't hurt anything..... just remember, when you run in this mode you are bypassing the knock retard capabilities of the PCM.
Do you have the white wire from the PCM in the yellow connector you added as part of the SDI, so the PCM is providing timing signal to the SDI controller? Or are you trying to run off the 3 timing dials in the SDI controller.
When I ran off the PCM timing signal, there were never any codes set, except an occasional DTC 16 when it took more than 2 crank revs at startup to synthesize the low res signal.
I think if you pull the white wire off to run on the SDI timing signal, you will get DTC 42. If that's the cause, it won't hurt anything..... just remember, when you run in this mode you are bypassing the knock retard capabilities of the PCM.
From reading my instructions, I am pretty sure the PCM is adjusting the timing right now. I just unplugged the ignition module and put that plug in the yellow plug of the SDI. I left the 2 plugs on the stock coil as they tell me to.
Is this right?
Is this right?
This is all pretty fuzzy in my memory, since it goes back more than 3 years. Here is what I wrote in the instructions that I gave you the link to:
If you go to the other thread, there is a link to the install writeup, and a picture I think I called "engine over-view".... you can see the small box with the yellow connector on it, attached to the throttle linkage cover.
The last connection is made by pulling the factory 4-wire connector off of the coil driver module sand plugging it to the corresponding 4-wire yellow connector/"box" from the SDI. This small box needs to be mounted somewhere, and I put it in the side of the throttle spring cover. Use very short self tapping screws, making sure they do not interfere with the throttle linkage through its full range of motion.
You must leave the dual connector on the OEM coil. In this mode, the PCM timing curve will be used, through the SDI coils. If you remove the connectors from the OEM coil, the timing will be set by the three dials on the SDI contoller. And...important....you will not have your knock sensor in the circuit.
You must leave the dual connector on the OEM coil. In this mode, the PCM timing curve will be used, through the SDI coils. If you remove the connectors from the OEM coil, the timing will be set by the three dials on the SDI contoller. And...important....you will not have your knock sensor in the circuit.
Fred/Ryan,
I'm a little more up-to-date on the SDI, since I'm still running this setup, and some of the older information from E'motive is wrong (which I think was done intentionally to keep their system a "mystery").
You don't need the original coil at all. If they're not connected, the timing is controlled by the SDI. If you put a jumper between the two pin 1's in the coil connector (pin 1 from each "half" of the coil connector), the PCM controls timing.
Ryan, if you're running this on a 94, you're going to be fighting the injector phasing sequence issues. It's much easier (IMO) to install everything like you're supposed to, including the Opti-Eliminator box, but don't connect it to the PCM harness on the passenger side (the connector above the valve cover). This way, the Opti controls injector phasing and everything will stay sequenced properly. The crank trigger is still required to baseline the SDI though. By having the Opti-Eliminator box installed, you can easily switch over in case the Opti fails, which will keep you from being stranded. I've been running it this way pretty much since I installed the system, and it's worked perfectly this way.
It's been awhile since I've done the initial setup, but I think the only code I ever got from the system was DTC 42. It was caused by the Hall sensor (pickup coil) not being close enough to the crank trigger. Getting the crank trigger set up correctly is a PITA, since you can't have much runout on the crank trigger. Easiest way I've found to do this is to not use the aluminum locator dowel between the crank hub and crank trigger. Bolt the crank trigger to the hub, adjust the Hall sensor gap, then spin the motor around by hand using the bolt inside the crank trigger (you'll have to use an extension to go through the center of the crank trigger into the hub and onto the hub bolt). Don't crank the engine with the starter, you may damage the sensor. Check the clearance between the Hall sensor and the crank trigger as you spin the engine around by hand, and if it needs adjusting, loosen the nuts and shift the crank trigger over a bit. I don't remeber exacly how close I had mine (I'm torn apart right now doing a rebuild), but it's a tight clearance. If you continue to have problems with it, you may have damaged your Hall sensor and it will need replaced. You can try to call JC at E'motive, although it can be a PITA to get ahold of him. It was JC's project, and he's the most familiar with it.
And of course, I have to ask -- you're not running an electric water pump, are you? The electric motor will interfere with the Hall sensor, and it will never work right if it's mounted in the bracket E'motive provided. You'll either need to figure out how to relocate the pickup as far away from the electric water pump as possible, or you'll have to go back to a mechanical water pump.
I'm a little more up-to-date on the SDI, since I'm still running this setup, and some of the older information from E'motive is wrong (which I think was done intentionally to keep their system a "mystery").
You don't need the original coil at all. If they're not connected, the timing is controlled by the SDI. If you put a jumper between the two pin 1's in the coil connector (pin 1 from each "half" of the coil connector), the PCM controls timing.
Ryan, if you're running this on a 94, you're going to be fighting the injector phasing sequence issues. It's much easier (IMO) to install everything like you're supposed to, including the Opti-Eliminator box, but don't connect it to the PCM harness on the passenger side (the connector above the valve cover). This way, the Opti controls injector phasing and everything will stay sequenced properly. The crank trigger is still required to baseline the SDI though. By having the Opti-Eliminator box installed, you can easily switch over in case the Opti fails, which will keep you from being stranded. I've been running it this way pretty much since I installed the system, and it's worked perfectly this way.
It's been awhile since I've done the initial setup, but I think the only code I ever got from the system was DTC 42. It was caused by the Hall sensor (pickup coil) not being close enough to the crank trigger. Getting the crank trigger set up correctly is a PITA, since you can't have much runout on the crank trigger. Easiest way I've found to do this is to not use the aluminum locator dowel between the crank hub and crank trigger. Bolt the crank trigger to the hub, adjust the Hall sensor gap, then spin the motor around by hand using the bolt inside the crank trigger (you'll have to use an extension to go through the center of the crank trigger into the hub and onto the hub bolt). Don't crank the engine with the starter, you may damage the sensor. Check the clearance between the Hall sensor and the crank trigger as you spin the engine around by hand, and if it needs adjusting, loosen the nuts and shift the crank trigger over a bit. I don't remeber exacly how close I had mine (I'm torn apart right now doing a rebuild), but it's a tight clearance. If you continue to have problems with it, you may have damaged your Hall sensor and it will need replaced. You can try to call JC at E'motive, although it can be a PITA to get ahold of him. It was JC's project, and he's the most familiar with it.
And of course, I have to ask -- you're not running an electric water pump, are you? The electric motor will interfere with the Hall sensor, and it will never work right if it's mounted in the bracket E'motive provided. You'll either need to figure out how to relocate the pickup as far away from the electric water pump as possible, or you'll have to go back to a mechanical water pump.
Last edited by Curt (pres AAMC & ZAA); Nov 25, 2002 at 10:02 PM.
Hi Curt; long time no talk to. I am not running an electric water pump. If the code 42 is caused by having the trigger too far away, that is probably the problem. I'll check the runout on the wheel and tighten the gap. Before I get too crazy, I'll probably order 1 or 2 more sensors just in case contact happens sometime.
I'll tighten the gap and update everyone as to whether or not that fixed the problem.
Ryan
I'll tighten the gap and update everyone as to whether or not that fixed the problem.
Ryan
I played with the gap on the crank trigger with no success. I have a feeling this code is being thrown because of the plug that used to go in the ignition module that is now going in the yellow connector. Not necessarily the plug; it may be the yellow plug or some wiring to it... Why would this code be thrown? Grounded IC? Is the IC the module by the coil or what??
Curt, I am going to e mail you. If you don't mind, I'd like to talk to you on the phone again. You were of great help when I initially bought the system.
Ryan
Curt, I am going to e mail you. If you don't mind, I'd like to talk to you on the phone again. You were of great help when I initially bought the system.
Ryan
Just got off the phone with Emotive and they informed me that JC, or any of the other engineers involved in the development of the SDI, no longer works there.....
And even worse, the Opti Eliminator is no longer available.... I guess this now brings on another question: I was told that if you were not actually using the opti eliminator that it only served as an "extension cord" to connect the crank trigger to the SDI. If this is true, can I just hook the crank trigger directly to the SDI unit itself or do I still have to have the OE in place? I figure if this is possible, I"ll just put the OE in the glove box and plug it in if the opti ever fails.
Ryan
And even worse, the Opti Eliminator is no longer available.... I guess this now brings on another question: I was told that if you were not actually using the opti eliminator that it only served as an "extension cord" to connect the crank trigger to the SDI. If this is true, can I just hook the crank trigger directly to the SDI unit itself or do I still have to have the OE in place? I figure if this is possible, I"ll just put the OE in the glove box and plug it in if the opti ever fails.
Ryan
You must have the wires crossed or shorted..... I never had DTC 42, unless the plug was removed from the yellow connector. I did get DTC 16 with the sensor 0.032" from the wheel, and the info I got from JC was to keep moving the sensor further away from the wheel... I ended up at 0.060".
Shouldn't be any surprise... they haven't been making it for 3 years. JC wanted to resolve the performance issues, even bought a 96 Z28 test mule at his own expense. They never gave him the time or resources to work on the O-E. Then they made him the general manager and the O-E stuff died, and no one would respond to my questions. I'm sure I've mentioned all this several times. This is why I would be hesitant to recommend ANY E'motive products. They do not support their customers. I spent the $$$$ on one of the first units, did the legwork, took my car to their shop, provided pictures and install data they needed, and then they just ignored me when I needed help.
And even worse, the Opti Eliminator is no longer available....
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