I am wanting to run an HEI distributor and retain my stock intake, EFI, and PCM. Can this be done?
LT1intake.com can machine my factory intake for the 87+ TPI style distributor but what else has to be done?

Don't want to go to a carb, just want the older style distributor.
I know I could convert to the LTCC setup but , I would rather simplify things under the hood than complicated it more.

Has this been done?

 

As long as you keep the stock Opti connected to the stock PCM, it will be fine. The PCM will never know you are running a conventional distributor. The PCM needs the low resolution pulse from the Opti to time the injectors. Lacking the low res pulse signal, it shuts down the injectors and the fuel pump.

 

Hmm, well the problem I'm having is the opti harness seems to corrode bright blue at the connector soon after replacing the opti as well as the harness. I figured by going to to the HEI, I could avoid the opti altogether as well as the harness problem.

It looks as if the connection from the PCM to the opti will be just as important even with running the HEI.

I get to replace the opti as well as the harness every 2 months as it is and its not cheap. My dang dealer will only warranty the opti once everytime I buy a new one because they say that my car is the problem, not the distributors they are selling me.

I have replaced the water pump a few times and am POSITIVE the opti is not getting wet, the last 2 times I replaced the opti and the harness, I used dielectric grease on the end of the connector to fight the corrosion. I ended up with soft. sticky, bright blue stuff instead of flaky bright blue stuff.

The next time I pull the opti, I am going to get an accurate measurement of the dowell pin although the opti doesn't seem to high center on it at all.

I wonder if that Dynaspark will solve my problem? Need to see what the warranty is on those things before I shell out $450.

Any way to take a meter and check the voltage and/or resistance coming from the PCM going into the opti? What should those readings be?

Thanks for any input.

 

Clean it GOOD and put(pack it) Di-Electric grease on it and make sure it has solid contact.

 

Bright blue could be copper sulfate... natural product of copper wire and sulfuric acid from the battery. Do you have a problem with excessive battery charging voltage, over an extended period of time.

 

I haven't noticed a charging problem, although I could have one. I know my battery is good, its a new optima. Could a faulty alternator cause this? I have the original '95 alternator on there.

What about hard wiring the opti connector wires straight to the PCM with new wires? Any resistance issues with that? I figure I could rule out any problem with my connection then.

How could battery acid get from my battery from to the opti connector?

Thanks for you help, can't seem to get any from anywhere else.

 

An Optima will "gas" if it is overcharged, just like any other lead-acid battery. The gasses can cause corrosion, if you are charging the battery hard enough to boil off the sulfuric acid. Did you have the problem with the blue gunk while running the previous battery? What happend to your old battery - why was it replaced?

Have you also tried pulling a vacuum on the end of the Opti vent harness that attaches to the intake manifold, to verify the hoses are "open"? If you don't have flow, the ozone could build up in the Opti and force its way out of the weakest link, which may be the seal on the harness connector terminal. Might be far fetched, and not sure if ozone would produce the blue corrosion????

 

The last time I replaced the opti(feb) I pulled both vaccuum hoses off the car and checked them and the one way valve before reinstalling. I did have this problem with the Delco battery, I changed to the optima last month because I traded in my GTP that it was previously in.

I'll probably pull it apart tomorrow and I'll report the condition of it and the harness.

BTW- I am only getting the DTC 36-faulty hi res pulse/

 

Well, just pulled it off.

Connector came off hard, from the corrosion.
No markings suggesting the pin bottomed out
Same bright blue stuff all over the connector and the opti pins inside.
No evidence of coolant hitting the connector, or wires, or top of opti.
This car has not leaked a drop coolant since the motor was done last year.

Anything that could have been done wrong during the motor install that might cause this?

The first opti that went after the motor install I replaced was very hi centered on the pin. I thought this was what caused it to go out. I ground the pin down to correct that and I still burn through optis fast. This one had MAYBE 400 miles on it.

 

I found that the one way check valve in the opti vaccuum line was installed backwards!(According to the picture on shoebox's site)

I now get no flow from the intake to the opti.
Only flow from the opti to the intake.


Someone confirm that this is correct, please.

 

When there is vacuum at the intake manifold port, air should flow from the intake elbow in front of the TB, through the line to the Opti, and out of the Opti to the intake manifold.