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Bottom End Stroker Build up help

Old Mar 5, 2004 | 01:37 PM
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Bottom End Stroker Build up help

Sorry, I dont know if this is advanced tech, but i originally posted this on the lt1 tech section and there are no responses, i dont know if the viewers just dont know what to tell me, or what, but i have read stuff in this section of the board and you guys seem to know a lot! So here is my original post:

Ok, here is the deal:

I plan on rebuilding my lt1. The car is off the road and I want to do this right the first time and get everything perfect. The plan is to stroke it, build completely custom heads, custom intake, custom exhaust. My goal for this motor is at least 500 N/A Hp with about a 300 shot of nitrous, so i want to build everything to handle at least a 1000hp or so. Sincs its gonna be a stroker, i am not worried about turning more than 6000rpms, but i want to have a flawless bottom end. I plan on using my stock lt1 block, drilling small oil holes through the main journals to cool the bottom of the pistons, filling the block with hard block cement up to the freeze plug holes and a few other mods. My lack of knowledge comes in when i start thinking about what company to go with when it comes to the crank, rods, pistons, and piston rings!!! and i prob will go with some brand of H-beam rods. Pistons?...i need all the help i can get? same with rings. I was thinking that i would like to shot peen everything for strength and maybe do that cryo treatment on it, just for added reliability and life. Last i was thinking get all moving parts friction coated. Now from what research i have done, these three treatments, shotpeening, cryo treatment, and friction coating all work very well when only one is done. My question is, does anyone know if the advantages of performing all three on parts will make them even stronger and last longer??? Any help will be greatly appreciated..

A few more things to add...

Crankshaft...I have done some research into who makes performance cranks, etc. I am looking at a stroker crank, not sure what i want to go with yet, i.e. 3.75", 3.875", or 4". Is the extra stroke in a N/A motor with an occasional big shot of nitrous worth not being able to rev it quite as high? My knowledge tells me to go with a 4340 crank, but i saw somewhere that said a billet 5140 crank would be stronger?...and also i saw somewhere about a 6415 billet steel crank? As far as cranks go in general, manufacturers i have found include Scat, Eagle, Lunati, Holley, Callies, Cola, and Pankl. The one with the largest fillet radii is the lunati with a fillet radii of .140" and all others are .125" radii. How much of a difference is this when your planning on close to 900hp? Another detail on that is that the Callies cranks say they have journal roundness tolerances of 0.00006", which is by far the most accurate i have found. Is this more important than the fillet radii compared to other journal roundness tolerances offered by the other companies? The last question concerning crankshafts is that most companies quote there 4340 SB crankshafts for applications up to 750 hp, are they good for more than that, and if not, what should i be looking for?

I havent done as much research into rods and pistons, but like i said in the original post, i dont know who is the best, but i will list mans. i have found. Rods: Scat, Eagle, Lunati, Callies, Crower, Oliver, Dyers, and Manley. Pistons: JE, SRP, CP, Diamond, and Wiseco. Any help/tips would be greatly appreciated.

In addition to all this, I am assuming that i am gonna want file to fit, zero gap rings?....not sure what manufacturer to go with, and not sure what bearings to go with either?....lol, i am reading over this and i just realized, i am pretty much clueless for the whole bottom end.

I try to read a good deal of the posts on here, on the advanced tech section that is, and you guys seem very very knowledgable so any help you guys could give me would be very much appreciated!
Old Mar 5, 2004 | 02:14 PM
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I can understand the lack of responses.

Have you considered having a professional engine builder do this engine?

A little knowledge can be an expensive thing, to paraphase the old bromide... Just throwing coatings, material specs, displacements, thermal treatments etc. together won't get you where want to be. It's like mixing medicines.

You do realize that you are probably talking inthe $30k plus range, right? If you are really serious about this, get professional help. No flame intended.

Oh, yeah, how about gettng a "real" block that will be happy with the hp. World and GMPP have some nice items. Sure, it won't be an LT1 anymore, but you'll be able to use some excellent heads, and you won't need more than 383 for your goals.

In case I didn't mention it, hire a professional. IMO, you might have trouble finding one who agrees with you plan.

My $.02
Old Mar 5, 2004 | 02:57 PM
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For one solution to your goal that has proven to work.... click on my "Mod's List" link in my signature.... exactly what you have asked for 500HP + 300HP N2O, and a bottom end that should be good up to 1,000flywheelHP. Just to indicate where we may have a difference of opinion.... I do not use any block fill, I have no cryo treating, my "friction coatings" are limited to Swain moly coating on the piston skirts, nothing has been shot-peened, although one set of part that will remain nameless has been glass-beaded.

It looks like you read a lot of tech articles and catalogs, and decided that if you throw enough money at it, it will work..... my advice..... get a professional, with SPECIFIC LT1 experience to help you.
Old Mar 5, 2004 | 04:20 PM
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Injun -

You have a 500hp motor and you were able to get the motor to eat 300 HP worth of nitrous on top of that?

How did you get through the 50% "limit" by such a wide margin?
Old Mar 6, 2004 | 07:14 AM
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Ok, Thanks for the tips guys. I know this is irrelevant, but i am 19...but my point is i am young, and i am basically making my 94z a project car. I have done a rebuild or two and am edjucating myself as much as possible on all things automobile. I am a super firm believer in doing things right the first time and doing things 150% professional. If this means i have to take a couple years to get this project going place, so be it. Again, thanx for the (few) responses.

I am currently home for a day and a half on dial up, so basically i am responding just to say that i am still alive, uhm, if i have some time tonight, i would like to share a few more details on my thoughts of this project. Where i am at right now, is basically just turning over my hand, seeing what cards i got, and planning my strategy. I am in no hurry, just want to plan things out so i dont have to worry about them later....hmmm....i guess i dont really expect many more responses until i share some more of my ideas, but if someone feels they can share some knowledge with me, feel free....
Old Mar 6, 2004 | 12:52 PM
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Originally posted by LameRandomName
Injun -

You have a 500hp motor and you were able to get the motor to eat 300 HP worth of nitrous on top of that?

How did you get through the 50% "limit" by such a wide margin?
Good fuel, good tuning.
Old Mar 8, 2004 | 03:43 AM
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First not: Freaking awsome car Injuneer, i envy you.

Second note: I would love to find out more about possible professionals to talk to about this, if anyone knows any i could get in contact with, and or, any professionals on here that would talk to me in more detail about this, even if it means some exchange of cash....

Third note: I love the advanced tech forum, when i am bored, i just hop on my laptop, and start reading advanced tech threads. I may be wrong, but most of the guys on here seem very knowledgeable, and somewhat experts, if not blatantly, all out experts, correct me if i am wrong...

Fourth note: I have unwillingly decided to make my car a true project car. The means I have no conceivable clue as to when the car will see pavement again, so basically i am guessing 5-10 years and 50k poorer. Of course these are just estimates, and i am sure crap will come up, if lucky, will be able to shorten time frame and increase $$$, if unlucky, u know, opposite. I, however, will remain optimistic. This, unfortunate for you guys, will mean i will prob be starting threads on tons of random ideas i come up with, i will seriously try to keep non advanced tech stuff out of here.... Anyway, I have a lot of ideas up my sleeve that either noone has ever done before that i know of, and/or is extremely rare. I would love to talk in further detail with an "expert", if anyone is willing to dream/converse with me on planning out an "ultimate" motor...yeah yeah, first response to this, "sounds like u better start thinking $150k instead of $50k." YEah yeah, whatever, do it right the first time, do something, or a lot of things, noone has ever done before!

"You see things; and you say, 'Why?' But I dream things that never were; and I say, "Why not?" "
- George Bernard Shaw (1856 - 1950)
Old Mar 8, 2004 | 07:19 AM
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I am not sure it's fair to take up a professional's time until you are ready to spend some money. You are talking about a very expensive project here. Keep in mind that the total project budget is going to be 2-3X the cost of the motor. Things like the fuel system, engine management, transmission, rear-end, etc. will all add considerably to the cost. 800rwhp does not come cheap. I do agree that "doing it right" the first time is cheaper than trying to scrimp the first time and having to do it twice (or three times).

In any case, while it's good to try to educate yoruself it's also important not to outsmart yourself. Pick a trusted pro to help you and then LISTEN to what they have to say before insisting on doing something you read about in a magazine or heard on the Internet. There is no substitute for real world experience in some of this stuff. There's lots of different parts of high quality out there, but the way they work together and are put together is as important as the quality of the individual components.

Rich Krause
Old Mar 8, 2004 | 07:44 AM
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Listen to Rich Krause. He's been there, done that. He's also a professional, but in a different field.


FWIW, GBS was an Irish comic dramatist and literary critic, I believe. He probably didn't build too many mechanical devices for changing air and fuel into noise.
Old Mar 8, 2004 | 08:03 AM
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Originally posted by OldSStroker
Listen to Rich Krause. He's been there, done that. He's also a professional, but in a different field.


FWIW, GBS was an Irish comic dramatist and literary critic, I believe. He probably didn't build too many mechanical devices for changing air and fuel into noise.
Jon, you are a smart guy As I was composing my post, I was thinking of my own profession and of using an example from there to illustrate my point. In medicine there are often many different ways of approaching a problem. Choosing the "best" approach in a particular circumstance often requires judgement based on experience. Book learning is not a substitute for experience. So, you should pick an experienced doctor you trust and LISTEN to what they have to say. You don't have to blindly accept it if it makes no sense and you certainly should not be afraid to ask questions. But in general, if you picked the right doc in the first place you should pretty much go along with what they recommend.

Same applies to an engine builder. Or any other professional. I put my money (literally) where my mouth is. Though I am pretty knowledgable about cars, ultimately there are a couple of people I rely on. Bret is one of them and my buddy Bob Kennedy is another. When making a decision we have a dialogue and usually reach agreement pretty easily. But in the end, I almost always will go with what they suggest. That's what I am paying them for!

For 99.9% of us a project like an 800hp LT1 is not where to start experimenting. To expensive to make a major mistake!

Rich Krause
Old Mar 8, 2004 | 08:11 AM
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Rich, you read my mind.

(That's scary)

Hey, did you ever notice that we consider people "smart" when they agree with our point of view?
Old Mar 8, 2004 | 08:16 AM
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Originally posted by OldSStroker
Rich, you read my mind.

(That's scary)

Hey, did you ever notice that we consider people "smart" when they agree with our point of view?
Yes, I was thinking of that myself. That IS scary

But I am not sure it's always a good thing. So I do try to keep an open mind.

Rich
Old Mar 8, 2004 | 01:19 PM
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Sorry for any misleading with the quote, hust expressed my overall feelings for the moment, not meaning to represent any sort of comparison between the actual, general thoughts of George and mine.

About the car, i realize it could be ignorant or hmmm, immature, for me to want to get the ball rolling on a huge project this early in my automotive experiences, but as a person, i am normally a huge step taker. I dont normally sit aside and take lil steps. Although lil steps are a safe bet most of the time, in life at least, i like to sit to the side quietly, watch others take small steps, then model my large steps after a series of their small ones. Anyway, i understand your reasoning for taking a less extravagant dream into consideration, but i like a good challenge.

YEah, and i didnt really think of how selfish it would be for me to start talking about a project seriously, exchanging cash and what not, with no true intentions of starting the motor for another year or so. However, I know it is critical to get everything planned out well ahead of time, considering i pretty much know what i want, but am open to suggestions, considering i do know that i dont know close to everything....
As said in previous reply, I dont really know anybody or have anybody around me in my life that really knows their stuff when it comes to discussions like this, so if anyone was interested in talking to me about this , say, off the board or whatever, it would be greatly appreciated. Thank for the input so far.
Old Mar 8, 2004 | 07:16 PM
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FWIW, here's my preferred brands for high end rotating parts.

Callies for cranks
Oliver for rods
JE for pistons

There are many other good brands out there.

Rich Krause
Old Mar 9, 2004 | 07:09 AM
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Originally posted by Anti-Blinging
If conformity is mark of a brilliant man; mark me retarded
I dont wear underwear and I eat shells and cheese for breakfast before my finals

Back to the thread-
I was sick and didn't go the doctor for 2 days. I fell into the office 2 days later with a 103.4 degree fever and didn't leave for a few hours, after being hooked upto some kind of breathing machine and leaving with 6 different medications. Missed a weeks of classes. (17 hours of class a week, i went to 4- just to take a test and do a lab). I had a 3.5 or so before I was sick.

And my body doesn't turn 6500 rpm...
Pneumonia? Severe bronchitis? Bad flu? Are you OBDI or OBDII? What codes did you throw? We need more information about how you use your body and whether emissions are important before making any recommendations. Also, what is your budget for this project? The good stuff costs, you know ;-)

Rich

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