I have a very technical question. First off, with the work that i've done i've sort of expected to go a little quicker, but im guessing that there's something that is not right. First off Its not a 350,,383,406. Its a simple 305. Heres my list of mods

87' 305 block(TPI) Bored over .030, Flatop pistons,348 crank,5.7 rods,forged bottom end, Cleavite bearings. Cloyes Double Roller Timing chain

Induction:
88' Corvette heads(ported and polished intake ports and exhaust ports)
Accel cam [#74211] 211/219 .503/.525 .536/.560 112deg
Edelbrock Intake Manifold
Ported Plennum
stock runners
stock Throttle Body

ValveTrain:
1.5 comp alluminum full rolller rockers
Comp pushrods
stock hydraulic roller lifters
titanium retainers
Accel Double springs

Ignition:
Reproduction Distributor
Regular aftermarket cap,GM 7mm wires, Ac delco plugs
Borg Warner Coil

Exhaust:
Edelbrock TES headers
Single 3" catco converter
Flowmaster Delta Force II catback

Fuel:
19# Ford SVO injectors
Stock Regulator

Drivetrain:
T-5,steel driveshaft

Rearend:
3.23

The best i could muster on my 92' camaro with the setup on top is 14.4 at 94mph, The only excuse i could give is that this was done with 21psi rear street tires,bad coil, 2 wire plugs were crossing, and the 3.23 rear. Motor runs slightly lean at idle

My fuel pressure is at 48, from what i read some say that i should buy a Fuel Pressure Regulator and lower it to 36psi. Reason for that is the Ford SVO injectors run 19# at that PSI, anything higher and the # will be lower. Oil pressure is at a awesome 50-60psi. Compression is at a 9.5.1. But since i added Vette alluminum heads could i have possibly lowered the compression? I did not mill the heads or block.

Believe me, i know im probably gonna be made fun of, for waisting time on a 305, but i wanted to see if i can make a decent one run in the 13's.

As of now Im in the process of putting in a 3.42 rear,just bought a new Borg Warne Coil, MSD 8.5 MM wires, Set the timing to 6 degrees BTDC. Lets say the car ran high 13's N/A, is that compatible with the modifications that i've done to the motor?

 

15 readers and no help

 

Is it just me or does that seem like a lot of cam for the rest of the motor?

 

I think you need to fix the crossed wires first.

The Aluminum Vette Heads don't have the best flow numbers but they do have a 58cc chamber so you should have some compression.

What is the full ignition advance? It sounds like you will need alot more, but we don't know what it is at the high end.

I gotta give you some flack on the 305, why build a 305 like that? seems that a 355 or 383 would have made more power for the same price.

Bret

 

Where did you read that higher fuel pressure will reduce fuel flow in #/Hr? Its the other way round.... the SVO's are flow rated (at least most of them) at 2.7 bar (39.15psi). Running them at 48psi would increase the flow rating to 21#/HR.

What are you doing for programming? What injector constant did the programmer use to set up the air/fuel? Are you running speed-density or mass air?

 

The stock runners are hurting you. Stock diameter is 1.470, aftermarket tpis are 1.66, I think SLP's are 1.60.

The L98's and LPE211 are a good combo.

 

thanx for the replies,

First off i am using a stock Prom, i am using a MAF system, I was told by accel themselves that a custom prom wasnt necessary especially with their cam? I thought the cam was too big, if it is... Im not sure on the total advancement on the timing since im not really too particular with that. Reason i built a 305 was just something i did b4 i really got into it. To be honest the last thing i wanna do is take motor out and put a Bigger displacement, id rather do that for another project. Id rather stick this one out. Reason i was talking about the fuel is. At idle the car runs really Lean[No vacuum leaks,IAC is set at specs],but at WOT it runs better between rich and lean.

 

You need to get a custom program in there. I dont care what Accel told you the stock programing isnt going work well with a bigger cam and ported heads.

IMO if you're serious about getting it right it needs to be dyno tuned by an experienced tuner. You may also want to consider switching to the SD ECM vs. the MAF setup you have now.

 

Considering that nothing was really done to improve the RPM capabilities of the intake, I'd say "yes".

As others said, the PROM is key to getting everything to work correctly. Either get yourself some hardware and software (like Tunercat), find a local guy with the equipment and know-how, or get in contact with a good mail-order tuner like Ed Wright. There's a lot of changes than need to be made to the calbration to take advantage of your many significant mods.

But first, make sure the motor is in a good state of tune. Admitting to having a simple but serious problem like defective plug wires and then asking for help probably ain't the best course of action

Good luck!

 

I don't know where you are in NY, but my friend Bob Kennedy tunes cars like your all the time here in Buffalo. Not cheap, however! Look at www.kennedysdynotune.com for more info.

Rich Krause

 

Thanx guys, I was gonna get a 52mm throttle body and either Accel Runners or SLP runners but was told that it would just be overkill. Explaining about the prom really opened up my eyes on it. Thanx

BTW if anyone has any other imput that would be great.

 

You need some way of monitoring what the engine is doing when going down the track. You can get away with a stock chip as long as you want to. I did with AFR heads, cam, headers, etc.

Do you have access to a hand-held scanner?
Do you have a laptop and cable to log and record data?
Are you getting knock retard?
What is your initial timing set at?

 

I do have access to a scanner but for some reason it said Scaner cannot Connect with computer, I think it was the Painless Engine Wiring Harness. No engine knock, car runs smooth. What i forgot to mention was when i took it the track a couple of times when i reached the end of the track, id ease on the brake, put the tranny in neutral and a couple of times the car would just die, as i slowed down to 20mph i would restart it and it would idle fine. I would think that it had something to do with the throttle body blade sticking close?

 

You need to get some data from the ecm as to what is going on. You are in the dark without it.