4-bolt main caps
4-bolt main caps
At what point (rpm or hp) does it become necessary (or recommended) to go to 4-bolt main caps?
How much strength difference is there between splayed caps and straight factory style 4-bolt caps?
How much strength difference is there between splayed caps and straight factory style 4-bolt caps?
Main caps seldom crack- usually the crank gives way before.
4 bolt main is to hold the cam better, not to make the actual cap stronger.
at least this my understanding. hopefully someone will correct me if i am wrong.
4 bolt main is to hold the cam better, not to make the actual cap stronger.
at least this my understanding. hopefully someone will correct me if i am wrong.
There's no magical number. RPM doesn't tell you everything and it's not the barometer of impending disaster. If I were to use lightweight pistons, wristpins, rods then it stands to reason that the rpm can increase and still provide a safe home for the crankshaft whereas heavy components might put the crank out of it's misery.
One very successful dirt track race engine shop here local uses a 500 hp rule. Anything under 500 hp stays with 2 bolt caps (w/studs of course) where as anything over that (their 550 hp motors and up) get nodular 4 bolt caps.... steel being optional $.
Dirt motors are tough on parts so using the same rule of thumb for a street engine is pretty safe. I personally have used 2 bolt caps in n/a bracket race engines with ~600 hp and never noticed abnormal bearing wear. Of course good machine work and precision parts plays a big part in longevity.
So I'd say that for a 500 hp street motor... 2 bolts are fine. Anything above that and I'd be looking for a 4 bolt cap. And the late model (thinner) blocks IMO should stay with the straight bolt caps. Save the splayed for aftermarket blocks.
-Mindgame
One very successful dirt track race engine shop here local uses a 500 hp rule. Anything under 500 hp stays with 2 bolt caps (w/studs of course) where as anything over that (their 550 hp motors and up) get nodular 4 bolt caps.... steel being optional $.
Dirt motors are tough on parts so using the same rule of thumb for a street engine is pretty safe. I personally have used 2 bolt caps in n/a bracket race engines with ~600 hp and never noticed abnormal bearing wear. Of course good machine work and precision parts plays a big part in longevity.
So I'd say that for a 500 hp street motor... 2 bolts are fine. Anything above that and I'd be looking for a 4 bolt cap. And the late model (thinner) blocks IMO should stay with the straight bolt caps. Save the splayed for aftermarket blocks.
-Mindgame
Originally posted by Serial Thriller
Thanks for the input.
Do main studs give a significant increase in strength over bolts?
Thanks for the input.
Do main studs give a significant increase in strength over bolts?
You can easily mount a good windage tray with the correct studs also.
Last edited by OldSStroker; Jun 13, 2003 at 02:22 PM.
Studs are much more likely to give you the proper fastener strain for a given torque, as they have significantly higher thread quality than a tapped cast-iron hole.
The 505 HP rule-of-thumb seems rather logical. Mindgame's point about good machine work should not be overlooked; good machine work that yields a straight main bore and proper bearing crush will go much further than simply throwing on a set of 4-bolt caps.
The 505 HP rule-of-thumb seems rather logical. Mindgame's point about good machine work should not be overlooked; good machine work that yields a straight main bore and proper bearing crush will go much further than simply throwing on a set of 4-bolt caps.
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Formula Steve
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