i dont know to much about cars but i know i want to put in a Ram Jet 350 Engine in my 1992 Camaro RS. since my car before the engine swap had only about 210 HP and im boosting it up to 350 HP with 400 lbs of Torque. i was wondering what else exactly i would need to put on my car to make it run properly without breaking it. and how much these parts actually cost. i would really apperciate it.

 

well not to disappoint but i'd say you'd be lucky to hit anywhere near 300 rwhp with that particular crate engine and that would be with other goodies like a complete exhaust, a good air intake, etc.

with that said there isn't much more your going to need more then the parts other people are installing now for our cars. sbfc's will be nice as the new torque curve will twist the car more but that also depends on your traction so unless you invest in some sticky tires and a good rear that won't matter much.

just look up suspension advice to get an idea as to what works best for our cars in that area. as far as the rest you will probably have to upgrade your ignition and fuel system to handle the new power as well.

also look into some braking to make the car more fun. you'll definately have a nice little street cruiser with that motor if you set everything else up right.

 

I don't see why 300 rwhp would be hard to hit with that crate engine. Anyhow, you're probably going to end up needing to rebuild the 700r4 tranny (i'm assuming you've got an auto). And, the suspension and brake upgrades would be a nice touch. Other than that, have fun with your new crate.

 

well beyond the fact that most magazine that tested that particular crate were right in line with 275 rwhp i was being optimistic. i've seen a few guys around here put them in and hit 250 rwhp with very restrictive breathing......

just saying don't expect true 350 rwhp. if you account for 25% drivetrain loss its about right at 275. 350 rwhp and up would be cause for an entirely different approach. with that motor you really don't have to worry much more then the average 5.7 L98 would use as well.

 

No offense, but where are you getting the 25% drive line loss from? Most stick cars will lose 15% and most autos will lose 18% tops. If you actually used 25% loss (I don't know why you would though), you would come out to ~263 rwhp.

Anyway, who installs a new crate engine with restrictive manifolds and air intake systems?

 

ok to get back to the question:

the main things you'll have to worry about breaking are going to be the transmission...as long as you don't BEAT on it, you should be fine, but if you wanna start racing it, you WILL blow it sooner or later. but there are many ways to build a 700r4 to handle 400+hp/tq.

next will be the rear end. if you are on street tires you shouldn't have much problem, they will spin enough to take the stress off the rear. but if you plan for dr or stickies...you'll start blowing the rear...start looking for a 12bolt

while you are swaping the motor it wouldn't hurt to change the bushings in the motor mounts and things like that...it will be easier with the motor out!

and a side thought, while you ahve the motor off the tranny. you may want to upgrade the torque converter...that way you can better take advantage of the added power, and the different power band. while you are at it add a trans cooler to keep everything cool and happy

 

if you would like to get technical that's fine, it's a pretty simple fact just looking at the parts that your not going to get anywhere near the crank. it would be nice but it just doesn't happen. i'll give you one documented example and you can find the rest:

in camaro performers spring 2003 a gm ramjet 350 was tested. they ran it with proper headers and intake cranking out 349.5 hp on the engine dyno which is good, but most of us know that they typically make nice numbers for paper.

obviously drivetrain losses vary with each individual car. i typically go quite conservative when i'm figuring things because there are alot of factors with motors and no two seemed to be alike. in this case of the motor that was dynoed when it was thrown into the car it pulled 275 rwhp. now this can also vary depending on what dyno it was pulled, how it was setup, etc. as well as this is only a 20% drivetrain loss but it isn't the point.....the point is the motor is a proven performer and a good street setup, but it isn't a monster that requires a major overhaul on the car. i just didn't want anyone thinking the numbers on the box is whats on the street. if it's making 275 rwhp or even 300rwhp your not going to have to do that extreme of modifications.

one of the key points in the article about things to upgrade in the car was making sure your intank pump can maintain 45-55 psi. when i built my first motor i replaced everything thinking i would need it and i didn't, if i were to recommend any one thing is to try out what you have and replace it as needed so your expenses don't get to high.

good luck with it.

 

Tranny, motor and tranny mounts and maybe the rear end cover might be changed to one with some support on the end caps.