LT1 in 3rd gen
you can use the stock serpintine setup with brackets and Power steering pump with lines, stock alternator mouting...to save quite a bit of cash...
ask me how to get the brackets to fit over the LT1 water pump =)
my LT4 swap cost me about 3,500 bucks, thats from the shortblock, LT4 heads, ignition, carb and every nut and bolt that i didnt see coming.
the LT1 has a lot more over the L98 then induction system...
the LT1 crank is nodular cast, the L98 is cast. the LT1 has either PM rods or forged rods factory..the L98 has ****ty cast rods...LT1 has hyper pistons, L98 has cast...thats just in the shortblock
ask me how to get the brackets to fit over the LT1 water pump =)
my LT4 swap cost me about 3,500 bucks, thats from the shortblock, LT4 heads, ignition, carb and every nut and bolt that i didnt see coming.
the LT1 has a lot more over the L98 then induction system...
the LT1 crank is nodular cast, the L98 is cast. the LT1 has either PM rods or forged rods factory..the L98 has ****ty cast rods...LT1 has hyper pistons, L98 has cast...thats just in the shortblock
Last edited by MY91Y84; Jan 11, 2004 at 12:09 PM.
Yes, that is true. However he has a carbed 383 and I read it as he was looking for a daily driver so I din't think he was going for anything that powerful. A cast crank can support up to 500 HP without breaking, I hope. Just curious, you sre the L98 had cast pistons? I thought they were all hypereutectics or was that just in the Vettes?
Of course, if he were to step up to say an LT4 like what you did for the power, I could see the inconvenience issue going out the window.
Of course, if he were to step up to say an LT4 like what you did for the power, I could see the inconvenience issue going out the window.
I believe the corvette fuel rail intakes are on the passenger side, so you need f-body fuel rails. As far as notching the crossmember, you need to either cut off about 2 inches on the passenger side or get a welder, heat the crossmember and pound it back with enough room for the compressor to clear.
Looks like Pasky took and reworded a bunch of stuff from my site.
Check out my site if you've got questions or if you'd like any info on the swap. My site has helped hundreds of people.
The cost of the swap depends on your mechanical/electrical abilities. So for one person to tell you it is cheap...you will have another one telling you it is expensive. Resources, skills, etc all have a large effect on the total price of the swap.
Eric
Check out my site if you've got questions or if you'd like any info on the swap. My site has helped hundreds of people.
The cost of the swap depends on your mechanical/electrical abilities. So for one person to tell you it is cheap...you will have another one telling you it is expensive. Resources, skills, etc all have a large effect on the total price of the swap.
Eric
Originally posted by aklim
So what has the LT1 got that the L98 doesn't have? The better induction system? You could get an LT1 intake for about $400 or you could go aftermarket.
So what has the LT1 got that the L98 doesn't have? The better induction system? You could get an LT1 intake for about $400 or you could go aftermarket.
Of course, i myself agree with you on the L98 ideas, just wanted to point out that the *new* LT1 ("new" since the LT1 really came out in 1970, and was a better motor than it's recent cousin.) does breathe better and higher than the L98.
However, note the sig.
Last edited by kraftopia02; Jan 12, 2004 at 03:55 PM.
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