Alright well...I tackled it tonight.

I didn't need to remove the dash pad but I did in case. That top screw on the heater core cover was nearly impossible but with the computer out of the way(removed and dangled), it's reachable but barely...What I did was open the bottom of the cover and slide in a 12" long flat blade screwdriver which I had just happened to make red hot with a MAP gas torch Melted the plastic and pulled on the whole cover and off it came nicely, then I removed the screw. When I reinstall it, i'll not include that top screw. It doesn't look very important and an adhesive would do the trick just as well. Getting the old one out and the new one in was easy enough. Once I could see the tubes from the egnine bay I kind of guided the by placing screw drivers thru the hole and into the tubes, then I just wiggled it around from inside the car and it found it's way in in seconds.

PROBLEMS: While pulling the old core out, I believe I either bend or just messed up the little vaccuum actuated "doors" inside the heater box. The ones on the left specifically. It's not pivoting like it looks like it should, if that helps explain the situation.... However since the cover is easy to remove and install now without the top bolt, I just threw it back together and if the vents don't work right I'll just go back in and mess around with it.

Other Problems: I removed the dash pieces around the guage cluster which also involved disconnecting the 12 lighter and also the fog light switch. I left the car for 2-3 hours for dinner and when I came back, the trunk motor was ticking and the car had zero juice...I'll figure it out hopefully! Thanks for the inspiration, BOTTLEDZ28!

You must have manifolds on your car still if they seem that hard I can do my plugs in 15 minutes. This swap took 2 hours minimum.

DO NOT: Attempt a heater core replacement if your car has a rollbar or rollcage. It's a pain in the ribs, knees, elbows...you name it.