1991 Firebird, 305, TBI, automatic, daily driver. Drove to my son’s school to pick him up. When we went to leave it would not crank. No history of this problem. Power windows and headlights work fine. Voltmeter reads about 11.5 volts with key in run position. Volts do not drop when key is turned to crank. The only thing that happens when I turn the key to run is the temp gauge maxes out and the indicator light on the upper right, I think, comes on. I’ve seen this type thing with low voltage situations before.

Tried to start in neutral. No help. Ran shifter through its range a few times just in case it’s the switch on the shifter/tranny. That did not work. Downloaded codes while I waited on the wife to come get us. This is what came up: 24 (left over from a bad VSS that I changed already), 32, 44, 53. Looks like I need to look into the EGR system. The 53, system over voltage on fuel injected models, is the stumper.

I’m headed back out to the car now. I am taking my spare set of keys in case the resistor in my key went bad. I’ll try that first. If that does not work, I’ll take a look at the battery terminals. If anyone has any ideas let me know. Thanks.

 

If your voltage isn't bogging down or bottoming out altogether it's not a battery cable issue. Take a small hammer (or other persuasion tool) and tap on the starter solenoid while someone else holds the key in "start." If you have a bad solenoid this will usually get the car to start.

There's nothing in the starter circuit except the battery, ignition switch, gear selector switch, and starter. If the engine isn't turning over at all it has to be one of those 4.

 

can you jump it with a screwdriver......same thing happened with mine and the main power wire somehow broke.

 

Thanks y'all, looks like its the battery or the positive terminal. I'll find out sure tomorrow.

 

It's still possible the neutral safety switch is dead. Mine died in the parking lot at work once, would not crank in any position. Instead of a towing bill, I opted for the paper clip. Just look for the connector with the two heavy gage wires (purple if memory serves) going into the NS switch, unplug connector, and use a piece of a large paper clip to bridge the wires. That's what I did, using a piece of tape to insulate it.

Fired right up, picked up a new switch on the way home. BTW, the new switch needed a little massaging. The pin that engages the shifter mechanism wouldn't go in, so I had to trim it a little on the grinding wheel for a slip fit.

 

Well, the battery was about gone, but it wasn't the problem. Time to look at the starter, neutral safety switch, and the VATs.

 

yea, I was thinking VATS

turn the key to run, does the security light come on then go off?

if yes, use a test light on the purple wire on the starter, it should have power with the key in the start position, if not, look at the neural safety switch and the starter enable relay(VATS thing, should be behind drivers kick panel)

 

Looks like its the VATS. No crank and no security light when I turn key on.

 

I'm going to try to get the car to the house tonight so I can work on it without the 15 minute drive.