3rd Gen / L98 Engine Tech 1982 - 1992 Engine Related

1 problem and a question.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 19, 2004 | 11:06 PM
  #1  
Pneumatic_Tire's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 439
From: Kettering Ohio
1 problem and a question.

My current problem. I've just about got all the bugs outta my camaro, except it idles high in park. About 1700 RPM. In drive and any other gear, it's around 850. I think I need to adjust the Idle air screw, but I'm not so sure if the chock isn't sticking either. Sometimes when I shut it off, it diesels. The timing is dead on, so I can eliminate that. Theoretically, I could see if the choke is the problem by simply unplugging it and seeing if the idle drops, right? I'm nott too expierienced with carbuerators, so I need all the help I can get here guys. Thanks.

Now my question. I bought a carb riser, cause everyone say's you can get a little better gas mileage, and a couple horses with it. So for 20 bucks, I said, heck I'll try it. Well, now I've read stuff about carb spacers causing a loss in low rpm power, but better at high RPM. What exactly is the truth with these things? Should I put it on and try it? My Camaro is a daily driver for me, so I obviously don't want to loose too much gas mileage since I drive about 65 mph tops. Thanks guys as always.
Old May 19, 2004 | 11:46 PM
  #2  
90rocz's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 2,947
From: Springfield,OH. U.S.A.
Well, you're deiseling b/c of the high idle, fix that and you'll fix the other.
1) A vaccum leak is always my first check on a vehicle with a high idle. Check all hoses for being disconnected of bent and cracked at the bend, etc..Check the EGR valve by removing the hose to it, then (cold engine)push the diaphram up inside as high as you can and hold it there until you place another finger over the hose fitting, sealing it. It should hold a vaccum and the diaphram should stay up inside the valve. If it falls back to the bottom, it's leaking vacuum and needs replaced.
2) A sticking choke is the second check, see if the throttle tang is resting on the idle screw, if there's an air gap, the choke "IS" sticking..Spray all of the linkage with choke cleaner(engine cold & off) and work it by hand, open and close several times and repeat if neccessary. Choke pull off can be checked by putting manifold vacuum straight to the pull-off, then blip the throttle and see if the rpm's drop..

Carb spacers are a good thing, no more than 1" on a stock vehicle, but it will increase milage, throttle signal etc..No loss of power that I've ever seen, not in the 1"-2" ranges anyways..
Old May 19, 2004 | 11:58 PM
  #3  
Pneumatic_Tire's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 439
From: Kettering Ohio
Great, thanks for the awesome post man. This is just what I needed to know. Thanks a ton!
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sseeya
Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes
1
Apr 9, 2015 06:38 AM
REDNECKISBOSS
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
13
Mar 22, 2015 08:31 AM
mongoose=
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
2
Mar 22, 2015 07:22 AM
aj2494
Computer Diagnostics and Tuning
7
Mar 12, 2015 10:17 PM
alex5366
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
4
Feb 17, 2015 10:43 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:47 PM.