1 problem and a question.
1 problem and a question.
My current problem. I've just about got all the bugs outta my camaro, except it idles high in park. About 1700 RPM. In drive and any other gear, it's around 850. I think I need to adjust the Idle air screw, but I'm not so sure if the chock isn't sticking either. Sometimes when I shut it off, it diesels. The timing is dead on, so I can eliminate that. Theoretically, I could see if the choke is the problem by simply unplugging it and seeing if the idle drops, right? I'm nott too expierienced with carbuerators, so I need all the help I can get here guys. Thanks.
Now my question. I bought a carb riser, cause everyone say's you can get a little better gas mileage, and a couple horses with it. So for 20 bucks, I said, heck I'll try it. Well, now I've read stuff about carb spacers causing a loss in low rpm power, but better at high RPM. What exactly is the truth with these things? Should I put it on and try it? My Camaro is a daily driver for me, so I obviously don't want to loose too much gas mileage since I drive about 65 mph tops.
Thanks guys as always.
Now my question. I bought a carb riser, cause everyone say's you can get a little better gas mileage, and a couple horses with it. So for 20 bucks, I said, heck I'll try it. Well, now I've read stuff about carb spacers causing a loss in low rpm power, but better at high RPM. What exactly is the truth with these things? Should I put it on and try it? My Camaro is a daily driver for me, so I obviously don't want to loose too much gas mileage since I drive about 65 mph tops.
Thanks guys as always.
Well, you're deiseling b/c of the high idle, fix that and you'll fix the other.
1) A vaccum leak is always my first check on a vehicle with a high idle. Check all hoses for being disconnected of bent and cracked at the bend, etc..Check the EGR valve by removing the hose to it, then (cold engine)push the diaphram up inside as high as you can and hold it there until you place another finger over the hose fitting, sealing it. It should hold a vaccum and the diaphram should stay up inside the valve. If it falls back to the bottom, it's leaking vacuum and needs replaced.
2) A sticking choke is the second check, see if the throttle tang is resting on the idle screw, if there's an air gap, the choke "IS" sticking..Spray all of the linkage with choke cleaner(engine cold & off) and work it by hand, open and close several times and repeat if neccessary. Choke pull off can be checked by putting manifold vacuum straight to the pull-off, then blip the throttle and see if the rpm's drop..
Carb spacers are a good thing, no more than 1" on a stock vehicle, but it will increase milage, throttle signal etc..No loss of power that I've ever seen, not in the 1"-2" ranges anyways..
1) A vaccum leak is always my first check on a vehicle with a high idle. Check all hoses for being disconnected of bent and cracked at the bend, etc..Check the EGR valve by removing the hose to it, then (cold engine)push the diaphram up inside as high as you can and hold it there until you place another finger over the hose fitting, sealing it. It should hold a vaccum and the diaphram should stay up inside the valve. If it falls back to the bottom, it's leaking vacuum and needs replaced.
2) A sticking choke is the second check, see if the throttle tang is resting on the idle screw, if there's an air gap, the choke "IS" sticking..Spray all of the linkage with choke cleaner(engine cold & off) and work it by hand, open and close several times and repeat if neccessary. Choke pull off can be checked by putting manifold vacuum straight to the pull-off, then blip the throttle and see if the rpm's drop..
Carb spacers are a good thing, no more than 1" on a stock vehicle, but it will increase milage, throttle signal etc..No loss of power that I've ever seen, not in the 1"-2" ranges anyways..
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