I'm getting ready to put my car back together and I'm trying to address the whole front/rear tire combo. I realize that if I try to run a 15" rim that I will need to grind the fins off the brake calipers and that I'll have to check with the rim to make sure it fit (since all 15's aren't the same).

I'm looking at several options that I have available. I could just run 17" rims and put a 315 in the rear & 245 up front and run drag radials. One question is how much of a traction difference is there between a 315/15 and a 315/17. I know theres alot less sidewall on the 17" but is that something that can be taken care of just by adjusting the tire pressure.

Another option is I have a Ford 9" rear that I'm going to have to have cut down to fit in my 95 Camaro. Question is can I have it cut a little narrower than the factory width? I've seen somewhere that someone went 2.5" less than the stock width and was able to put a deeper dish rim on their car. I don't want to tub the car out because I know I can put 315's back there anyway. But since I'm paying $200 to narrow my rear I figured why not look at all my options as far as back space.

 

Nobody know about this? Wouldn't just goin 2.5" less on each side of my rear mean that I'd need 2.5" less backspace. I think its simple math but I don't want to take any chances on messing up a perfectly fine rear end.

 

Yes, its simple math. Take 1" off the end of the axle tube, and you take 1" off the backspace for the wheels. Just don't go nuts. If you narrow the rear too much, I've seen people complain that the brakes, particularly the e-brake cable/brackets and the damper weight start to interfere with the brackets for the shocks and LCA's. You should be able to look at your current setup and see how much you can shorten each side before the brakes are into the other parts of the rear axle assembly and the subframes.

 

Thanks Injuneer. I looked at my 10 bolt the other day when I was working on my fender well and thought about this. I just didn't want to have the shop cut it less than stock width without a second opinion.

 

Some people will swap the 3rd Gen assembly into the 4th Gen. Its 3" narrower - at least Strange makes the direct replacement 12-bolts 3" narrower - and bolts into the 4th Gen with no problems. Should give you an idea of what you can do.

Might want to try a search. Can't recall with certainty that is was on CZ28.com, but I thought I saw a post in the last 2 weeks where someone took 2.5" or 3" off each side of the axle assembly, and got to the point where they either had to move the shock mounting brackets or delete the e-brake.

 

Fred - the 3rd gen rear bolts right into the 4th gen - no issues? Any benefits, even if short term, to doing this?

I can't go 12 bolt this year and i'm a little worried about the 10 bolt so...if I can get another rear that is at least somewhat stronger than mine for the time being then I may look into that.

 

Nevermind - the 9 bolt was the option and there's no parts around for them or they're too expensive.

 

A stock 3rd Gen rear will bolt directly into a 4th Gen. It will not have ABS or TCS. Brake mounting may be an issue, since most of the 3rd Gens had drum brakes, I think. It will not be any stronger than the stock 4th Gen rear.... its the same assembly, just a few inches narrower.