I have 98K on my car, and bought it at 82K. I think the key was the original key from the factory. 2 days ago, I went to start my car, and it wouldn't start. The starter would not crank. Electrical systems went on, but the engine wouldn't crank. The "Security" light went on, and stayed on.

So I checked the manual, and it said to make sure the key is clean, and try to restart after the Security light turns off. Light went off, and it started up again. The manual says when that happens, that the key is bad and to get a new one.

I have a new key already (spare key), and now that has become my primary key. Problem is, the Security BS still happens with the new key. I was at the gas station, went to restart my car, and it wouldn't start. FOR THREE TRIES!! I then got smart and used my aftermarket autostart to start the car once the Security light went off, then drove off.

This Security BS happens on and off. This morning, I got it while starting to go to church. After church, it started up normally. Going to the store and back, it started up fine. This was all with the new key. I've checked the fuses, and they seem fine.

Any clues on what's wrong? I'm going to bring it to the dealership and have them check it out.

 

I had the same problems about a year and a half ago, so I had the local Chevy dealer fix it, to the tune of $298.75, plus $45 for a new key.
On Passkey II cars: There are 2 wires that run to your ignition switch. When you put the key in, that resistor chip completes a circuit and shows the computer a set resistance, allowing the vehicle to start. Those 2 wires are really small and can easily break, especially if you tilt the steering wheel a lot. That's what happened to me.

If you can live without the stupid Passkey II, here's how you can permanently bypass it:

Get a Digital Multimeter and find the resistance value of the chip in your key. It will be several thousand Ohms. (Mine was 6.08K Ohms)
Go to Radio Shack and buy a combination of resistors that add up to your keys resistance value. (Mine was one 4.7K, one 1K and one 330 Ohm - came out to 6.03K, but works fine...)

Solder the resistors together end to end.

Now, take off the panel below the steering column. There should be what looks like a fairly large bright orange wire (it's actually 2 white wires in an orange sleeve) trace it to a connector. Unplug the connector and cut off the end that is coming from the column, leave an inch or two of wire hanging off of it.
Solder one end of your resistors to one white wire coming off of the connector, solder the other end of your resistors to the other white wire, plug it back in and the Passkey II system has been officially disabled.
All for about $1.99 and an hour of work.

 

Thanks TopHatJimmy for the info. I think I'll get the Pass Key system fixed, though, for the added peace of mind security.

And speaking of security, that damn light came on again! This time while driving to school, Security came on and stayed on for about 5-7 minutes, then shut off while I was about 1/4 away from school. (BTW, I started my car this morning with my autostart, as there was snow on it)

 

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