ok so i just bought a 94 camaro with the 3.4 v6 replaced the plugs and wires but still running super rich bogs down when driving but still drivable just no power very rarely and randomly the car will run perfect with full power the security light on my dash stays on for some reason and when starting the car you have to turn the key on and wait at-least ten seconds before trying to turn the car over any have any ideas what may be wrong???

 

Periods dude, periods.

1) Could be a number of things from bad o2 sensors (running rich), plugged cat (loss of power), and/or a handful of other things. Is it throwing any SES codes?

2) Security light means there is an issue. It could be anything from a dirty key (not likely but try it anyways since it's free) to needing a new key lock cylinder. If you have a spare key, try that and see if the problem goes away. If not, you can eliminate it being a bad security pellet on the key. If I had to guess, I'd say you need a new cylinder and eventually you won't be able to start the car until it gets fixed.

 

Previous owner removed the converter and replaced it with a straight pipe. Could the o2 sensors really make it act like this? it will randomly run good and have full power then when you stab the gas or the trans shifts it goes back to barely having any power at all and shaking. the ses light comes on sometimes but never really stays on. could the security light have anything to do with it running like this?

 

The security light doesn't cause a car to run rough. It just displays based on what the sensors are telling the ECM. And if the previous owner didn't program the o2 sensors out of the ECM after removing the cat then yes it will cause it to act this way. Just another case of someone doing a mod and not knowing wtf they're doing and messing things up.

And Importkiller was on the money about the security light. That could also be playing a role in the car not running right as well. You're gonna have to get that checked out.

 

Purchase a large bottle of Chevron Techron and on the weekend or when time permits at your next need to fill the gas tank... dump the Techron in the gas tank and take a leisurely 30 minute drive on a local Interstate road and see if the injectors respond to bit of cleaning out.

Another symptom of loading up on gas is if you pull that narrow vacuum line off what looks like a Black Stetson Hat in the valley (in front of the lower cross bar of the "U" shaped Upper Intake manifold) on your rectangular aluminum Fuel Rail holding your six fuel injectors and fitted at the back with two fuel lines just under the cowl at the firewall...that "Top Hat" is your Fuel Pressure Regulator. If you can smell gasoline or see it dripping from the tine rubber fitting and black plastic tube attached to to it... then it means that your FPR bladder has a hole in it. This symptom can also explain why it takes ten seconds to build up enough fuel pressure to get the car to start since its all leaking down past the bladder into the vacuum hose when you turn the engine off.

You will have to purchase a FPR Bladder Kit from RockAuto for the "GM L-32 3.4L 207 CID VIN"S" engines for any of the carline series thay have it in running from 1993 to 1995 for either the Camaro or the Firebird V6 SFI engine. It will cost you around $70.00 (NOT the whole Fuel Rail Assembly...which costs around $400.00 !!!). Then after unhooking your battery ground cable and with the ignition key off, depress the Schrader Valve pin on the top front of the Fuel Rail Manifold to bleed of the 43.5 PSI that might still be present in the closed circuit fuel lines. Keep a cloth rag handy to soak up the extra fuel and don't work on this job in a confined space with any ignition sources nearby. You will need to buy a $20.00 Security Torx Bit Set with the very small bits to remove the array of screws from the flat metal rings surrounding the "brim" of the Top Hat and then just lift out the rubber/fabric bladder and replace it with the new one. Then following a classic star-shaped torque pattern, tighten down each opposing Torx Screw after putting a little Threadlocker on their threads to make sure the "Top Hat" stays sealed with fuel on the bottom side and a vacuum on the upper side.

Jesus Palomino...what am I telling you about this for when I could just easily show you the photo-rebuild via my photobucket? LOL... Sorry. I am known as "60dgrzbelow0" there and have tons of images and videos about working on this 4th Gen F-Body Car and re-building and fixing its V-6 engine, too:

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/s...NER/?start=220

Here is the closeup showing the special screws with the pins in the center:

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/s...LASSEMBLY5.jpg

and here, as well...

http://www.60degreev6.com/

These are easy-to-diagnose-and-easy-to-fix issues that you might consider looking at first. Let me know if you need any other help...and oh yes... visit and join the 60* site, too... Lot's of help and very friendly peeps there, too. Just visit the links...you will get the idea what you will need to do and what to do it with... Good Luck with the fix!