I have tried everything I can think of and done all that I have read on these post.
It only does it when I do a burnout or spin the tires going straight. But when I do donuts it has no wheel hop at all but if I go straight while doing a donut it starts wheel hoppen again
I have lca relocation brackets (welded on) Tryed the top and bottom holes
A moser 12bolt with a spool, a Spohn Adj Torque Arm LT HEADERS (Chrome Moly) with a spherical rod end
BMR lca's with poly bushings
and a 3" custom steel drive shaft.
and 315/35r17 tires
and bmr 21mm swaybar
It has a vibration about 80mph by my tach with the 4.11 dont know if that has anything to do with it.
It only does it when I do a burnout or spin the tires going straight. But when I do donuts it has no wheel hop at all but if I go straight while doing a donut it starts wheel hoppen again
I have lca relocation brackets (welded on) Tryed the top and bottom holes
A moser 12bolt with a spool, a Spohn Adj Torque Arm LT HEADERS (Chrome Moly) with a spherical rod end
BMR lca's with poly bushings
and a 3" custom steel drive shaft.
and 315/35r17 tires
and bmr 21mm swaybar
It has a vibration about 80mph by my tach with the 4.11 dont know if that has anything to do with it.
Moderator
Wheel hoppin with all those parts indicates that you need new shocks.
Registered User
can worn shocks make you leave light blackies?? I want to leave dark marks and have always only made light marks. 

Moderator
Quote:
The color of burnout rubber marks is controlled by the compound of rubber and the tire pressure.Originally Posted by White Knight
can worn shocks make you leave light blackies?? I want to leave dark marks and have always only made light marks.
Registered User
jeepz28 - you might want to check on the condition of the LCA bushings. Age and abuse doesn't do them any favors.
Norm
Norm
Registered User
Quote:
The color of burnout rubber marks is controlled by the compound of rubber and the tire pressure.
it also has to do with suspension.The color of burnout rubber marks is controlled by the compound of rubber and the tire pressure.
I run Nitto DR's and they are still pretty light....i have run every tire pressure imaginable. I would assume psi@most traction would be desired to make them blacker.
Registered User
The Poly Bushings in your LCA's, they are binding and thus giving you wheel hop. I'm running QA1 rod-ended LCA's and have ZERO wheel hop doing just about anything without Relocation Brackets.
The blackness of the burnout has a lot of dependencies... the way I leanred it is that as long as the color is even across the burnout you are at the proper PSI.. if it's too dark in the middle then there's too much pressure, darker on the outside, not enough pressure.
The blackness of the burnout has a lot of dependencies... the way I leanred it is that as long as the color is even across the burnout you are at the proper PSI.. if it's too dark in the middle then there's too much pressure, darker on the outside, not enough pressure.
Administrator
If he's going in a straight line, I don't think he's running into "binding" due to the poly bushings. That happens when the body tries to roll excessively, putting the front mount of the LCA at a different angle than the axle mount. I've had no wheel hop with the Spohn LCA's and poly bushings, at least to the 635HP level.
I'd say he may need to check the pinion angle. It might not be set correctly. Then check for excessive "squat" on launch (soft springs, soft shocks).... that could still drop the front of the LCA too low. Finally, check for excessive body roll on launch - cure it with an airbag in the right rear spring if necessary.
I'd say he may need to check the pinion angle. It might not be set correctly. Then check for excessive "squat" on launch (soft springs, soft shocks).... that could still drop the front of the LCA too low. Finally, check for excessive body roll on launch - cure it with an airbag in the right rear spring if necessary.
Registered User
Quote:
Umm, best traction implies that the grip is most uniform over the width of the tread (most uniform over the contact patch area, to be more specific). What that should give you is a patch of the most uniform darkness rather than the darkest stripes. Darkness itself is related more to the compound and its temperature, along with the vertical loading on the tire.Originally Posted by White Knight
I run Nitto DR's and they are still pretty light....i have run every tire pressure imaginable. I would assume psi@most traction would be desired to make them blacker.
Suspension will affect the vertical tire loading mostly over just the first few feet, assuming that we've killed off any hop. After that, it's just acceleration times CG height divided by wheelbase. Plus or minus a small amount that reflects the fact that engine torque is not constant over the rpm range.
Norm
Registered User
Quote:
The blackness of the burnout has a lot of dependencies... the way I leanred it is that as long as the color is even across the burnout you are at the proper PSI.. if it's too dark in the middle then there's too much pressure, darker on the outside, not enough pressure.
Good point.The blackness of the burnout has a lot of dependencies... the way I leanred it is that as long as the color is even across the burnout you are at the proper PSI.. if it's too dark in the middle then there's too much pressure, darker on the outside, not enough pressure.
thinks for all the replys. My poly mount on the right side is busted. it looks like it just exploded in half. and my back springs are a little week. But my shocks are good I bleave.
How do you set pinion angle I have tried about 10 time.
I putting the angle finder on the valve cover then then put it on the bottom of the tq arm where the bolts go into the rearend. I set it at about
-2degrees.
How do you set pinion angle I have tried about 10 time.
I putting the angle finder on the valve cover then then put it on the bottom of the tq arm where the bolts go into the rearend. I set it at about
-2degrees.