For all you that have taken your ABS out do you regret doing it? I did some research and it seems that people are going both ways with a distribution block and a proportional valve. Has anyone decided which is the best to use to supply enough pressure to the back brakes? Also has anyone ever put a line lock on a standard before, would that help any on take offs?

 

I took out my ABS unit last week, and I couldnt be more happy with the results. The main reason it had to go was that it leaked bad. so i took it out and tried to figure out where it was leaking from (I took it all apart) and could not see where it was comming from, so I didnt put it back in. I went to a hardwear store and got some flair fitting, and went by autozone and rented a flairing tool and several hours later after I cut and flaired all the lines and flushed all the old fluid then I had to bleed the lines. I took her for a ride, and she is stoping better than ever. 95 TA no TCS and now no ABS. I was thinking about getting a perporting valve for the rears, but just figured I would do with out it until I could get one, but the rear tires dont even lock up when I hit the breaks as hard as I can. now Ive only done this going under 40.
let me know if you have any other ?

Tanner

 

Well you really need a propotioning valve to adjust the brake bias. You want the front and back brakes to lock up at the same time. If not you can run into trouble. If the back locks up before they rear, the rear-end might try to slide around on ya. If will be even worse if this happens on a turn.

I got a ket from SJM Manufacturing. I got the ABS delete/linelock kit. It comes with everything needed to get the job done. It comes with the linelock, proportioning valve, and prebent lines and fittings. Even comes with the switches and wiring to wire it up. They also have some of the best customer service around.

But the proportioning valve makes adjusting the brakes very easy.

 

I have no regrets on removing the ABS. My car had allready been without it for years because my Hooker LTs melted the wiring harness that went to the front passenger wheel sensor. The car has allways stopped great without ABS and there have been a few panic stops included in that evaluation . I used a proportioning valve on mine, but I'm not sure it was necessary, I have it adjusted all the way open and still have no problems with the rear tires locking before the fronts. I figure for 40.00 it was cheap insurance to make sure the brakes were functioning properly. I have pictures of it and how the lines are routed in my cardomain site which is listed in my sig if you want to see some pics. I ended up finally removing the ABS tower to clear things up for intercooler piping but it had only been serving as a proprtioning valve for the last few years anyhow. A few things, I also rented a flaring tool from autozone, make sure you get the metric line flaring tool and not the standard size. I was also able to track down every fitting at the same autozone, I just had to get them to let me dig through their brass fitting boxes behind the counter. Most importantly, always remember to put the fitting on the line before flaring it , it works much better that way.

 

ABS pretty much sucks in all conditions but snow, even then I don't like it that much.

 

Well I think Im going to order a ABS delete kit w/ Line Lock from http://www.sjmmanufacturing.comfor a 93 camaro. I have to get a channel 3 kit right since I do not have factory traction control correct? Also the 2 top kits both come with line lock and everything else. Is the 2nd one more expensive because it has a hurst line lock? Whats the benefits of the hurst line lock that the 1st kits line lock wont do?

 

No regrets here. I don't daily drive my car or drive it in the rain so it wasn't a big issue. I too used the SJM kit on my car and it works well and I like having a line lock on the car for track use.
EDIT- Just a note regarding the kits at SJM. Just go with the cheaper of the kits. It is a good complete kit and is only cheaper because it doesn't have the Hurst piece. I taked with Steve at SJM about this and he recommended the SJM kit to me and it has worked perfectly.

 

I also went with the cheaper of the two kits. The one you are just paying for the Hurst name. Solenoids are almost identical in design. If you have any questions talk to steve. He'll treat you right.

 

Again....

Please do not post any topics on "LT1/LT4 Engine Tech" unless specifically related to the engine.

Moving to "Suspension, Chassis and Brakes".

 

I would say the opposite . I would rather skid in the snow , at least I can feel if im going to stop or not . Same with the rain . Dry weather thats where ABS is at its best



Rob